john_frink Posted July 28, 2002 Share Posted July 28, 2002 Whenever I print an image at large sizes, like 30x40, I have some problems that the grain of the negative is not sharp, although I adjusted maximum overall sharpness. I like images that are a little bit grainy, I use tri-x with hc-110, I tried ID-11 once instead, but with no better results. The equiptment cannot be it either. What to do for sharp grain dots? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_eaton Posted July 28, 2002 Share Posted July 28, 2002 A glass neg carrier fixes the problem. Soft grain in large optical enlargements is most likley caused by your neg flexing during exposure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_stockdale2 Posted July 28, 2002 Share Posted July 28, 2002 As has been pointed out, the negative flatness is crucial. Assuming that your neg flatness is not absolutely perfect, can you get the sharp grain you're looking for on *part* of the print? If you can, then the enlarging setup is the problem (flatness, geometry, lens problem etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0002a Posted July 28, 2002 Share Posted July 28, 2002 You didn't say what size negative you are using, but an enlargement that size may be outside of the usable magnification range for most enlarging lenses. To help alleviate this, use an aperture of at least 3 stops closed from wide open, even if it makes for long exposures. But I would not exceed stopping down more than 4 stops to avoid diffraction limitation. If very large prints are your norm, you might want to look into one of the Rodenstock Rodagon-G lenses that are optimized for such prints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_hicks___ Posted July 28, 2002 Share Posted July 28, 2002 To begin with you need a properly-aligned enlarger, a glass neg carrier, a good lens suitable for the repro ratio you're doing used at optimum aperture, a good grain-focuser magnifier and an enlarger that's well-braced against movement and vibration. Once you've satisfied those considerations you've eliminated the equipment as being the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_paltoglou Posted July 28, 2002 Share Posted July 28, 2002 I think Mark has a useful idea. Stopping down the enlarger lens as much as possible will increase the depth of field (or should that be depth of focus in this case?) just as it does with a camera lens. The sharpness of the grain would be a trade off with the lower optical qualities at small enlarger apertures. George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian_harkness Posted July 29, 2002 Share Posted July 29, 2002 John, I am puzzled by your original comment, 'The equipment cannot be it either. ' Could you explain that? I am asking because my first reaction was, it's the enlarger, and of course, most of the above posts address 'the equipment.' I think a little more detail would be helpful. chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_menegatos Posted July 29, 2002 Share Posted July 29, 2002 I think John means 30x40cm? Which isn't all that big.<p>In addition to the suggestions above let me make the following.<ul><li>Make sure there is no vibration on your enlarger during exposure. When you have the head high up on the column it will be less tolerant of vibration.<li>Try covering the lens with your hand or something to shield the light just before the exposure so that the negative will heat up and pop before the exposure and not during. That is if you aren't using a glass negative carrier.<li>For precise focusing make sure you use a similiar sized sheet of paper on the easel to place your focusing guide on.<li>It might be your negative. Some developers soften the edges of grain.</ul>Also, like others have said, check your alignment and lens too.<p>Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_frink Posted July 29, 2002 Author Share Posted July 29, 2002 Sorry for puzzling you all a little bit, I am not so really firm with english. But thanks for the answers. What I meant with the equiptment, is that the (small-format-)negative is laying in a glass negative carrier, the lens is an apo-rodagon, and the paper (40x30 centimetres and more) is kept in a frame, pressing it down. Maybe it is the development of the negative itself. Or maybe it is something totally stupid ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_krentz Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 Use a pyro developer. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 30x40 cm (12x16 in)is beyond the size that 35mm Tri-X negatives will produce sharp results, no matter what developer and equipment you use. Suggest that you try a slower film such as Ilford FP-4+. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_hicks___ Posted July 30, 2002 Share Posted July 30, 2002 > (small-format-)negative is laying in a glass negative carrier But!! Have you aligned the enlarger using a tool of sufficient sensitivity (Versalab Parallel, Zig-Align etc) and is the enlarger rigid enough or wall-braced? It doesn't matter how new or old the enlarger is or what brand it is, if you haven't aligned it or checked its alignment then take it as an article of faith that it's not in alignment. Also check for vibration sources such as a cooling fan, air-conditioner, trucks on a nearby busy street etc. You should use the lens about two stops closed from wide open; wide open or stopped down too far will decrease sharpness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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