Tri-X: development times and agitation schedule?

[david_c3]

<p>Sorry, I posted in the wrong forum (color) initially and have reposted here.</p>

<p>I started in the darkroom last year, went crazy in wanting to try all sorts of films and developers (too numerous to list). Now I've settled on Tri-X and either Xtol or D76.<br /> <br /> Going on vacation recently, I shot both at the beach/pool and also in more normal lighting situations (shady or hazy outdoors). Exposurewise, I went for one stop over in all of my shots to get the skin tones where I thought they should be. <br /> <br /> Using the MDC, of 9 minutes 45 seconds for D76, the skin tones are good. However, the beach/pool scenes with all the brightness and reflections appear to have excessive highlights that I need to print down with lower contrast. The more normal scenes appear to be developed more appropriately but also with some less apparent overblown highlights.<br /> <br /> I'd like to know what times and agitation schemes people use for normal and more "bright" contrasty situations. Sorry, I use only film and don't have a scanner so it would be difficult for me to post examples.<br /> <br /> I was thinking of decreasing the time by 20% for these more contrasty scenes, (about 8 minutes). Does this sound reasonable? May be about 9 minutes for less contrasty scenes. Do I need to change my agitation as well? (currently the recommended 5 times initially followed by 5 seconds or about 2 cycles every 30 seconds).</p>

[jim_norman4]

<p>First, I'd pick one developer. There's no need for both XTOL and D76. I used D76 for years, but have switched to XTOL successfully for the last 3 years. You didn't describe your metering technique or how your shadow areas look. It would be useful to know where you're placing your shadow areas and where your highlights fall. That would be helpful in giving you an idea about pull (minus) processing to get those highlights under control. Finally, don't change too many things at once. Keep your agitation constant. Vary development times. You didn't mention whether you process in tanks and your film format. For tanks, most agitation is constant for the first 15 seconds and then 5-6 inversions every 30 seconds. Too much or too little agitation will cause problems. Your agitation sounds fine as a starting point. Perhaps the best way to get your times is to do some experimentation and vary your development times for the same level of contrast in a scene. That way you'll find what lets you print well.</p>

[michaelging]

<p>In "Most" cases for low contrast scenes , I shoot Tri-x at asa 650, develop for 9 minutes in 76 straight at 5 seconds every 30, at 68 degrees. For normal scenes, I shoot it at 400 , D76 straight for 8 min at 68 degrees , same agitation. For high contrast scenes like beach, I shoot it at asa 200, develop in D76, 1 to 1 for 8 min, same agitation. If you have a high contrast normal scene, you can also shoot at 400asa , D76 1 to 1 for 10 min. You milage will vary :)</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Don't vary agitation until you've exhausted every other possible option for getting the desired results. It's almost always best to stick with the standard agitation technique described by every manufacturer of films and developers. Save the alternative agitation methods for a last resort.</p>

<p>Otherwise, stick with the basics Jim and Michael described: exposure based on scene lighting characteristics; development time appropriate to the exposure and desired contrast.</p>

<p>Once you've accomplished all you can with the basics, then you might consider more frequent agitation with shorter intervals, less frequent, etc.</p>

[david_c3]

<p>I am using 35mm and spot meter my subjects skin using a Pentax digital spotmeter. I go up one EV to put the skin in Zone 6 (I haven't done any standarization yet) so effectively, I am shooting at 200 ASA for all situations.</p>

<p>As my subjects are my children in candid and rapidly changing situations, I don't have time to meter both highlights and shadows. I take one skin reading and so far, my skin tones are falling right where I want them to be. The shadows, usually their dark hair, falls in Zone 3, with enough texture still. </p>

<p>I develop using small tanks. For normal contrast situations, following the Kodak tech sheet recommendations of 9:45, the contrast range seems about right. I will follow Michael's time of 8:00 for more beach/pool scenes which are frequent in my case. </p>

<p>I don't know exactly how many inversions there should be in 5 seconds. Right now, I can only get about 2 to 3 inversions in without "shaking" the tank too much (I worry about producing too much bubbles in the canister). Should I be inverting more quickly to get 5 inversions in?</p>

[colin jackson]

<p>Check this out:<br>

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pd<br>

Note:<br>

 

<p>MANUAL PROCESSING <br>

Small-Tank Processing (8- or 16-ounce tank) <br>

With small single- or double-reel tanks, drop the loaded <br>

film reel into the developer and attach the top to the tank. <br>

Firmly tap the tank on the top of the work surface to <br>

dislodge any air bubbles. Provide initial agitation of 5 to 7 <br>

inversion cycles in 5 seconds; i.e., extend your arm and <br>

vigorously twist your wrist 180 degrees. <br>

Then repeat this agitation procedure at 30-second <br>

intervals for the rest of the development time.</p>

<p>I do it just like this and air bubbles have never been a problem in several decades. Don't forget the "tap".</p>

 

</p>

[john_paul12]

<p>I don't know if this helps -- but for Tri-X 400, I do the following:<br>

Developer: 11 minutes total, agitate continuously for the first 30 seconds, and then every 10 seconds for the minutes thereafer.<br>

Stop: Agitate continuously for 30 seconds, let sit for 30 seconds.<br>

Fix: 3 minutes total, agitate continuously for the first 30 seconds, and then every 10 seconds for the minutes thereafer.<br>

Hypo-Clear: Agitate Continuously 3 minutes.<br>

Then you can do your wetting agent, final rinse, and drying procedures.<br>

I hope this helps, if it doesn't, just ignore me. :/</p>