Macro lens

[kfrazzeled]

<p>I have the Canon Rebel XTI and just bought the macro 100mm canon usm lens. I am having trouble focusing with the lens. So, I decided to go on the forums here. <br>

I just read the canon 60 mm<a href="http://www.adorama.com/CA6028AFSU.html?kbid=3925"> f/2.8 Macro USM</a> is designed for the small-sensor Canon cameras and gives a working distance equivalent to 100mm on a full-frame camera. A professional photographer might use <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA5D.html?kbid=3925">Canon EOS 5D</a> (<a href="http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/5D">review</a>) and a lens designed for full <a href="http://www.adorama.com/CA10028AFN.html?kbid=3925">Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM</a> (<a href="http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/100-macro-usm">review</a>). Confusingly, this lens is also specified to focus down to "1:1", but this time the sensor is 24x36mm in size, the old 35mm film standard.<br>

I did a lot of research on this lens and it is a good lens. However, I did not take into consideration that I have a small sensor camera. Does anyone have an opinion? I do not want to return the lens as it was a gift. I suppose with 1.6 factor it is a 160mm. What do I need to take into consideration when using this lens with my camera. Any advice?<br>

<br /></p>

[bueh]

<p>First of all, 1:1 means 1:1 regardless of film/sensor size. Both the EF-S 60mm and EF 100mm go to 1:1, so magnification will be equal. The "only" advantage of having a larger format (and a lens you can use for it) is that more area is recorded, so larger things can be recorded in detail. But this is not really the issue here.</p>

<p>The EF-S 60mm gives you the working distance of a 60mm --, but with a 100mm-equivalent field-of-view. Except for this minor change (which only makes sense if <i>you</i> consider 35mm nomenclature as standard), it stays a 60mm lens in all other characteristics.</p>

<p>I guess this all doesn't help you a lot. You need to clarify what you mean by " <i> I am having trouble focusing</i>" for us to help you. Uploading an image with EXIF intact will get you even more useful advise. The EF 100mm is a great lens and <i>you</i> should not have troubles taking awesome pictures with it on your camera.</p>

[richard_scopp]

<p>I use the 100mm Macro with a crop sensor XSi and consider it one of my favorite all-around lenses. The only frustration is the miniscule DOF when shooting extreme close-ups. Perhaps that's what you mean when you talk about focus issues.</p><div></div>

[kfrazzeled]

<p>Well, I am glad to here that i did not make the wrong choice. I think that maybe I am too close to my subject and this is why I cannot focus. I am still getting used to the lens. I was shooting things inside because it is poring out here. I have been using it with AF not MF. And, if keeps trying to refocus. And when I finally have it focused and take a picture, it looks blurry. This could be from camera shake I know. How far do I need to me away from the subject with this lens? It seems like I can get closer w/my 50mm lens. I am also used to zooming in. I know more practice is needed.</p>

[mendel_leisk]

<p>This The-Digital-Picture review is for the Canon 100mm Macro, but it has a lot of comparisons with the 60 and 180, and the pros-and-cons of each:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-100mm-f-2.8-USM-Macro-Lens-Review.aspx">http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-100mm-f-2.8-USM-Macro-Lens-Review.aspx</a></p>

<p>The author advocates the 100mm as a good balance of focal length and price.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>By their nature all macros in macro mode have very shallow depth of field. AF simply cannot be expected to guess right every time about just what it is in the viewfinder that <em>you</em> want to be in sharp focus. This is why you really need to manually select the small area that will be in sharpest focus.</p>

[mathew_gardella]

<p>Just back up a little when shooting...:^)</p>

[naturetrek]

<p>I used the 100mm as well as the 60mm on XT / XTi for more than a year. It takes a bit of practice to get great shots with either of them (especially on the highest magnification). There is not much difference between the two lenses (other than how far you have to be at the max magnification).</p>

<p>The best way is to set it at max magnification, and use manual focus. Then move back and forth slowly while looking through viewfinder. You'll get a feeling on how close you need to be from the subject. Repeat the same steps but with the lens set to lower magnification, etc. This way, even if you do use autofocus, you can "help it" a bit by positioning yourself closer to the right focusing distance.</p>

<p>It is hard to autofocus while shooting bugs for example, as they tend to move a lot. Manual focus is a better option in that case anyways, so try to get used to it. Another parameter to consider is the F-stop. Try keeping it above F8 to get some more depth of field. Of course, this will need a slower shutter speed. Use higher ISO to compensate accordingly, and then use a noise removal software (with the XTi you can get decent results up to ISO 800).</p>

<p>This is a shot I took with the same combo (xti/100mm), manual focus, almost 1:1: http://www.photo.net/photo/7638990&size=lg</p>

<p>Good luck and enjoy your new lens!</p>

<p> </p>

[c jensen]

<p>Using a tripod will also help you with this lens.</p>

[arthur_reyes1]

<p>I have the lens too. Awesome lens.<br>

You might want to check the focus limiter switch. You might not have it set so that you can focus at its closest distance.</p>

[peter_j2]

<blockquote>

<p>I am having trouble focusing with the lens.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No need to set the focus limiter switch. If photographing without a tripod (i.e. hand holding), focus manually and fire with the motor drive to increase the chance of getting at least one good image. I guess it's called 'focus bracketing'.</p>

<p>To get the best image, use a tripod. When you get this close, really concentrate on the image in the viewfinder and again manual focus for ultimate precision.</p>

<p>Playback and zoom in to check each image on the camera's rear LCD panel before moving on. You can then download, tweak the colours and sharpen that chosen image later.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>[J]ust bought the macro 100mm canon usm lens...I do not want to return the lens as it was a gift.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Huh? Did you buy the lens or receive it as a gift?</p>

<p>Anyhow, attached is a photo taken hand held with the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens. In my opinion, it is one of Canon's finest lenses.</p><div></div>

[kfrazzeled]

<p> Thanks to everyone. I will take all the above advice and practice practice practice. Love everyones pictures. I think that I will shoot outside today and use tripod. <br>

Peter: You picked up on that. It was a gift but I did chip in 100 for it. <br>

Diane: your photos are beautiful. I think that I am really going to enjoy this lens.</p>

[jack_nordine]

<p>I have the 100mm 2.8. For macro photography, I suggest ALWAYS using manual focus. Also, a tripod is a great idea, but I've had great results with a monopod. I also have the 60mm 2.8. The 60mm is better for everyday non macro shooting, but for macro, the 100mm 2.8 is far preferable.</p>

[SCL]

<p>Kim - with a little practice you can do just fine with the lens. I would suggest two things: first turn off autofocus and work in the manual focus mode for a while, and instead of turning a focus ring, focus by walking back and forth...you will develop a better sense of how to best use the lens as well as improve your overall photographic skills; and secondly, for a while use it on a tripod to eliminate shake. By reviewing your shots, you will then begin to see what the contributing factors are in a good shot, and what the issues are in a bad shot, having eliminated shake as one of those factors. After a ciouple weks of trying this approach, begin handheld shots and see if you're able to shoot without shake by upping your shuter speed, opening your aperture or increasing your iso. Once you have this down, try autofocus. I prefer manual focus with my macro lenses, but there are times when autofocus just is the right thing to capture the moment. Come back in a couple of weeks and show us some of your better shots.</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>Once you get to 1:1 type macro you really need a tripod and preferably a focusing rail system. A foucing rail makes it easy to move the camera backwards and forwards slightly to achieve correct focus. This is much easier than moving the tripod. You can buy good and reasonably cheap rails from Adorama for about $180 or you can buy a plate from a tripod manufacturer. the Manfrotto Micrometric Positioning Sliding Plate is not a bad option for about $85</p>

[kfrazzeled]

<p>Thanks Stephen and Philip. I see what you mean about using tripod. i am going to have to use the tripod and yes the back and forth maybe a nuisance with it. I will upload a couple of shots if I am able to get some goods ones</p>

[kfrazzeled]

<p>Okay, I took some pictures around my backyard. But unfortunately, I cannot upload them because they are too big. I am not sure how to resize. I appreciate everyone's input, it has helped a lot. I am not crazy about using the tripod. I found myself tripping over it. It is hard to go forward and backward with the tripod but it definately helps with keeping steady. Thanks</p>

[awindsor]

<p>You can shoot with a macro lens without a tripod (and I say this as an inveterate tripod user). I have never had much success shooting bugs with a tripod. There are three tricks; use at least f11 to maximize depth of field (you are sacrificing a bit of sharpness to diffraction here but you need the DOF more), use a flash, shoot a lot, and be prepared to delete most of your images.<br>

I set the lens to 1:1 (manual focus) and then rock backward and foward so that the focal plane shifts across the object.<br>

The flash is crucial. At f16 and a moderate ISO ambient light is not going to matter. That is good. There is no way you could handhold the camera steady at 1:1 magnification anyway. The flash burst is going to be very short and you can handhold the camera steady for that brief instant. <br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3965251-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="485" /><br>

If you are shooting flowers then by all means break out the tripod, they tend not to walk away. Personally I use a 70-200/4 and extension tubes for flowers to get more working distance.</p>

[peter_j2]

<blockquote>

<p>I am not sure how to resize.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You can resize using Canon's Digital Photo Professional software (which should have been included with the purchase of your DSLR camera) by clicking on File > Convert and save... > Resize setting.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>It is hard to go forward and backward with the tripod...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You don't have to move forward and backward with the tripod. Switch your lens to MF (manual focus). Set the tripod in your chosen position, check in the viewfinder that you are getting a steady green focus light while manual focusing on your chosen focus point. You should also hear a focus confirmation "beep". If not, <strong>then</strong> you move the tripod back until you get a green light and the beep.</p>

<p>Then you can fine tune your focusing with the len's focusing ring. Take a few shots from that fixed position at different fine tuned turns with the ring. You <strong>will</strong> eventually get an ultra sharp focus point. Practice will quicken the process.</p>

[kfrazzeled]

<p>http://www.photo.net/photos/kfrazzeled I uploaded four photos. I resized them during export from large to small. They look a bit weird in the slideshow. These are my first photos with the macro lens. It is a lot of fun, I am going to enjoy using this lens. Not sure that I posted them correctly to the forum though. Let me know your thoughts. thanks</p>

[peter_j2]

<p>Very nice <strong>Kim Ricones</strong> . I especially like the closeup of the pistils and stamens. Did you sharpen them in post processing? You will definitely love this lens.</p>

[kfrazzeled]

<p>Thanks Peter, I appreciate you looking at the photos. I did not do any processing and yes, I will like this lens a lot. I think I took a picture of everything in my backyard including rusty nails I saw sticking out of my garage. They actually came out good. it will take me awhile to keep steady even with the tirpod. I should get a release cable. </p>

[zeb_lisik]

<p>Hi Kim, I use an Canon Digial Rebel 300D and a Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro.</p>

<p>The 100mm is surely better and more useful than the 60mm. Having more reach is very useful in that you can be positioned farther away which may help you in not disturbing your subject and in not blocking light sources.</p>

<p>You can also use your cameras timer in order to avoid some shake as an alternative to a cable release.</p>

<p>As others have suggested if you're doing 1:1 (or higher) macro photography use a focusing rail of some sort on a tripod, for this magnification any tripod is better than none. If still suffering from camera shake try using MLU though I don't know if your camera supports it or not...</p>

<p>You can also use the method of holding your camera immobile against yourself, holding your breath and leaning forward or backward ever so slightly to get your focus. This is more effective at ratios less than 1:1 and obviously your shots out of focus rate is going to be higher so take plenty of pictures. I found this useful before I got a proper tripod and focus rail, or whenever I don't have a tripod with me.</p>

<p>Manual focus is easier (since AF hunts too much) and is the general standard when shooting macro and closeup though there may be plenty of situations when AF is suitable. For instance if you were shooting a wide angle closeup of some flowers on a breezy day, a quick AF shot may be the more practical choice.</p>

 

[zeb_lisik]

<p>On the subject of shutter speed remember that once you're on a tripod it is much less important, as long as your subject is stationary, so keep your ISO low. Typically AV mode is the most useful when doing macro/closeup, just set your fstop and let the camera worry about the shutter.<br>

A closeup photography book might be in order, "Understanding Close-Up Photography" by Peterson is a good place to get started.</p>