Light meter recommendations for a Crown Graphic?

[robie_anson]

<p>I went to Adorama today and they recommended the Gossen Digisix. After reading some of the negative reviews, though, I'm wondering whether this is the best option.<br>

FYI -- I plan to do mostly color landscape work, and I use an Ektar 127mm lens.<br>

Thanks!<br>

Robie</p>

[doug_axford1]

<p>It makes no difference which camera you are using for a light meter. </p>

[jim_norman4]

<p>Doug is exactly correct. You did say you were going to do color landscape work. Since you'll be working, for the most part, at some distance, an incident meter is probably not the way to go. A one degree spot meter is ideal for landscape work, as long as you learn how to use it properly. A meter that does both reflective spot and incedent is great. Sekonic makes some fine meters. A digital or analog pentax spot meter (not sure they're still made, but there's always eBay) is another favorite of landscape shooters. If you like night or long exposure work, the Gossen Luna Pro SBC (again, probably only available used these days) would work and it does spot metering with an accessory attachment. Whichever way you go, learn how your meter works and test until you understand what it's telling you.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>For landscape work a good spot meter will serve you best. There are/was? a lot of good spot meters on the market and previously owned can be a good buy. Look for Gossen Ultra Spot or Ultra Spot II, Soligor, Sekonic, Minolta, and newer Pentax. Avoid older meters that used mercury batteries as they are no longer made and substitutes may be hard to find or have a short duty cycle (battery life). </p>

[jim_gardner4]

<p>If I am doing something serious or using a modern camera I use a Sekonic L508. If I am using a period camera I like to use my callibrated Weston Euro Master. Wether I use incident or reflected depends on the subject/situation/time etc.Took them both out today and they both did a perfect job.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Why are you dismissing incident reading out-of-hand for landscape work? Aren't your landscapes usually lit by the same sun that falls on your camera?</p>

<p>A spot meter is only as good as the photographer that uses it, and its readings are open to extreme interpretation. For example, do you meter the brightest specular highlight you can find and then point the meter down a cave entrance to measure the SBR, or do you "guess" at what's reflecting mid-grey in the distance and measure that? For most mere mortals a simple incident reading will give a more consistent and reliable measurement without over-complicating things. If an incident light reading is good enough for the majority of professional cinematographers shooting film at $$$$$ a foot, then it ought to be adequate for a novice stills photographer (no offence taken Robie I hope), shouldn't it?</p>

<p>Robie, you could do a lot worse than a used Minolta Autometer III or IV. Reliable and accurate but eats batteries, so take the battery out when not in use.</p>

[derek_kennedy]

<p>I'm sure there will be people that will diss my choice but I use a Sekonic L-308S light meter will ALL my cameras that have no meter - and also with my Anniversary Speed Graphic (also with the Ektar 127mm lens).</p>

<p>Works for me.</p>

[sg_adams]

<p>I use both the Seconic 308 as mentioned above, esspecially backpacking with my Crown Graphic 23 and I also use a 1 degree Pentax Spot meter. I pack the Seconic because it is light and fits in my pocket, has incident and reflective metering. When weight is less of a concern I take the spot and the 308. The 308 has servde me very well for a long time and since getting a the spot a little over a year ago I really enjoy using it. <br>

On another note, it also depends what film I am using with regards how I meter. With slide films I'm metering for the highlights and compromising shadow detail. Print color neg and B&W is more fun getting into those shadow areas and allowing for highlights with latitude and developing. I switched to color print film last summer and was quite pleased with the improvement for those harsh daylight sittuations I find myself in at high altitudes in the Sierra. <br>

</p>

[john_liberty]

<p>I have a $100 analog Pentax spotmeter and a $30 Sekonic L-188. Strangely enough I was also out shooting landscapes w/ my Crown Graphic recently and used both meters. For sure the Pentax spotmeter was damn accurate, but every time I metered w/ the Sekonic and adjusted my readings for the middle range I came up w/ exactly the same settings as the Pentax. Now the L-188 has a field of view that is far too wide, but it's easy to read, small & light. I'm used to metering the horizon w/ it, then searching for something middle value that's near me so I can take another reading. The Pentax takes up a lot of room in my backpack and is pretty heavy, so from now on I'll just bring the Sekonic. There are two important things to remember w/ meters. One, is the meter accurate? And two, have I used it enough to understand it's quirks? If you can satisfy those two criteria your shots should come out fine.</p>

[robie_anson]

<p>Thanks guys. Novice is a fair assessment, at least in terms of large format and external metering, so no offense taken.<br>

I had read on other threads that folks use specific meters for specific cameras, so I thought that I would specify what I plan to use mine for.<br>

Can someone clarify how a spot meter differs from an ambient meter, and in what situation one would use one piece of equipment over another?<br>

Thanks so much, you guys are so helpful.</p>

[jim_norman4]

<p>Let's define some terms. Ambient light is sometimes called available light or existing light. It's whatever you don't add. All other light, strobe, hot lights, etc. is what the photographer adds. Strobe light needs a flash meter, because the light is not continuous, and can't otherwise be metered. Spot meters, which are one type of reflective meter, measures an area of (usually) one degree. Other reflective meters (reflective being the light that is reflected <em>from</em> the subject to the meter) measure an area larger than one degree. All in-camera meters are reflective, and use various patterns (such as center weighted) to describe the area being measured. Incident meters measure the light <em>falling on</em> the subject, and can be identified by the diffusion dome. Most flash meters are incident meters, but some measure a reflective spot. Either type of meter can work fine, once you know how it works, how to use it, and what it's telling you. In landscape, the one degree spot meter is a must for zone system practitioners, and in other situations where you can't measure the light falling on the subject (maybe there's a river in the way), you need to measure the reflected light. When all else fails, the sunny 16 rule still works to determine exposure. It's not a bad idea to carry a spare battery for whatever type meter you use.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Ambient light-existing light, not dependent on source.<br>

Incident light-light from any source falling on an object.<br>

Reflective light-light reflected from any object regardless of light source.<br>

Flash or strobe light- short duration or burst of light from a from a lighting source such as a flash bulb or flash tube.<br>

There are two types of meters, ambient and flash. Either type can be designed to read incident or reflective light or both. <br>

Incident metering is normally used when it is convent or easy to read the light falling on the subject such as in portraiture or still life. It can be used in any type of photography. Reflective metering is used by SLR's with built in meters and can be used in any type of photography.<br>

The 127mm Kodak Ektar has a field of view of 36⁰ x 46⁰. (vertical/horizontal)<br>

The Digi Six you first mentioned has a 25⁰ angle of view all directions. Meters will have different angle of view depending on their design. Spot meters will have an angle of view of 1⁰ or 5⁰.</p>

 

[golden]

<p>I have 2 meters, my most used one is the pentax spot meter and i also have a sekonic l358, my sekonic i use mostly as a flash meter. the pentax is excellent but kind of expensive. good luck</p>

[robie_anson]

<p>Thanks for your help guys. I wound up going with a Luna Pro. Anyone use this (http://stevecicchetti.com/SiteHistory/Pictures/Lunapro2.jpg)? Any tips?<br>

Thanks again!</p>

[bennie_nickolas_hinojos]

<p>I have a digisix lightmeter and it has done me well. If i were going to spend my money I heard there is a meter by sekonic that is 3 in 1. Reflective and Incident meter with a spot meter built into it. Very nice meter but you should always have two meters as a back up just incase your main one takes a dump on you. Which the Digisix is very nice especially due to the size of it.</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=search&A=search&Q=&ci=0&sb=ps&sq=desc&sortDrop=Relevance&ac=&bsi=&bhs=t&shs=sekonic+lightmeter&ci=907&basicSubmit=Submit+Quer</p>

<p>the link to the sekonic all in one lightmeter that is very handy</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Now that you have a very good meter work on your metering technique. Exposure variance of 1/3 stop or more is noticeable. </p>

<p>I used a Luna Pro F for several years.</p>

[robie_anson]

<p>Yep, next step is to learn to use it. I made my first picture yesterday and found it was overexposed... Going to take it our for a spin today and see what happens.</p>

[sfcole]

<p>"Why are you dismissing incident reading out-of-hand for landscape work? Aren't your landscapes usually lit by the same sun that falls on your camera?"<br>

No, distant landscapes are often lit by very different light. There could be haze of cloud either over the camera or subject, especially with mountain scenes.</p>