Fuji Neopan 100/Readyload

[michelle_frankfurter1]

<p>Has anyone had any experience shooting Neopan 100? I absolutely must have a Readyload film because I have to travel extremely light. I have searched through the forums and found some posts about Neopan, but only for 400 ASA. I remember shooting Neopan 400 35mm years ago. It was highly sensitive and if you overexposed it, you were doomed.<br>

Thanks-I'm leaving the country in about a week, so I need to order film ASAP!<br>

Michelle</p>

[sheldonnalos]

<p>Neopan 100 (aka Acros) is a wonderful film and fairly easy to work with. No reciprocity issues either, so great for long exposures.</p>

<p>It's my favorite B&W film for 4x5, and super convenient in Quickloads.</p>

[lwg]

<p>The 100 speed film in Quickloads is Acros, and it is a great film. One of my favorite films. For my setup expose at 50 and it works great. The film base is very clear (low film base and fog) so the negatives tend to look a bit thin when properly developed. I have never noticed an issue with giving it too much exposure. It seems to have a very long latitude.</p>

[victor_loverro]

<p>There is one issue with this film that you need to be aware of. There is a hole in one corner and if you compose an image on your whole ground glass, you will lose about 1/8 from one long and one short side. Expose or sacrifice one sheet of film, determine where the hole is in proper orientation, and mask your ground glass to the real useable image area. It will save you a lot of grief if you compose to the edge of your ground glass. Actually, you should do this with any camera and the film holders you use. There is often a discrepency of actual image space.</p>

[cmonkey]

<p>I've been using it since it was first out and it has saved me a ton of time. While more expensive than loading your own sheets into holders, it pays for itself because you don't spend as much time dusting and shooting extra shots. Others suggest shooting at ISO 50, but for my equipment, ISO 100 is spot on. I also CLA my equipment every year. It could also depend on what you develop it in. If you over expose it, the highlights get a bit blocked up. On my Sinar X, either a Polaroid 545i or Fujifilm back gives perfectly flat, sharp images. For B&W, I use Acros for probably 80% of my work, and Pan-F and TMax 100 for the rest.</p>