Jump to content

Neopan acros 100 @25-50 with Xtol


Recommended Posts

<p>Hi:</p>

<p>I'm trying explore a new alternative with Neopan Acros 100 , (expose to the shadows and develop to the hightlights), anyone has experience shooting this film at 25 or 50 asa (overexpose) and underdevelop with Xtol ? how big could be the latitud for this combination, I'm shooting long exposures (3-6 mins) with a Hassel V. (www.moiseslevy.com) I thought maybe someone has explore the combination and has some advice.</p>

<p>Thank you in advance.</p>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Beautiful work, Moises. I really like your website. I use Acros extensively (well, Neopan SS usually, where I buy it). I find the shadows block up a lot anyway when overexposed so I tend to go the other way, underexposing and overdeveloping. By over-exposing and shortening the development time, you'd be compressing the tonal range, yeilding higher contrast. Is that the way you want to go?</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to work with Velvia 50 because it is very easy to scan but the tonal range is very short and I had some problems with the lab, so I decided to shoot BW film and develop myself to avoid any risk with a lab, I decide to shoot Neopan because I read it has almost no reciprocity failure for long exposures,(I need low iso for the long exposures also) and what I'm looking for is to obtain the widest tonal range with long exposures and very sharp images, and because I'm new in the lab I want to find the easiest way to go for.

 

 

Thank you for interest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>50 is not that much over for Acros, I normally shoot Acros at 80. I use Xtol 1:3 for about 12 minutes depending on temperature. Just cut your time back a bit if you expose it at 50. And don't forget that you can use a neutral density filter to slow your exposure times down.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I haven't tried Acros but dilute Xtol (mostly 1:3) seems to work very well with slower and contrasty films like PanF+50 (@16-25) and APX 100 (@50). Very nice range even in rather extreme conditions.<br /> Perhaps EI 50, 1:3, 10,5min, 20C for Acros?</p>

<p>Cheryl, how do you block shadows by overexposing?</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Cheryl, you are currently underdeveloping your films if your dark areas (in the print!) block up. Read up somewhere (books are better than the internet, usually) as you might have gotten it 180 degrees wrong.<br>

And: Neopan SS is not Acros – at all! You'll be surprised when you get to compare them on your light table and will weep after the first big print (for not having found out about the "real Acros" sooner).<br>

No reason to despair though.</p>

<p>Moises, why don't you do a roll at 100 and a roll at 25ASA in parallel and see for yourself (65 to 70% of the 100ASA time)? Grain will barely improve from 50ASA and I never saw and advantage in going under 50ASA for better tones, but that is ME - not you!<br>

Pete</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Sorry Pete, my mistake. I meant the highlights, obviously, not shadows. I learned what I know by more than just the Internet and books, so don't be rude.</p>

<p>I know in the states, if you order imported Fuji Acros from Freestyle, you get SS.</p>

<p>And finally, you ought to learn some manners and tact. Cheryl</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Moises,<br>

It's clear from your work you know quite a lot about exposure and development, so when you say you need more exposure and less development, I take you at your word. Acros is my favorite "slow" film, for the same reasons you cite, although I'm more likely to expose at EI 200 than at EI 50. Overexposure serves only to increase density, the appearance of grain, to reduce sharpness, and compromise gradation, but if your exposure conditions indicate EI 25-50, that is not overexposure, it is appropriate exposure.<br>

Contrary to what Cheryls writes above (sorry Cheryl), increased exposure and reduced development will yield LOWER contrast, not higher, which is probably just what you're seeking. It's much easier to increase contrast in post processing than to decrease it, but be aware of the limitations of the approach and the penalties for exceding them.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Hi Moises, I recently started shooting Acros 100 @ 50 but process in PMK pyro. I shoot pinhole so my exposures are often several minutes. I've been quite impressed with the results. I intend to do some long exposure lens photography with my hassy in the near future and will start with the Acros/PMK combo. Whether you use Xtol or another developer I would encourage you to give Acros @ 50 a try yourself. Your work is really quite lovely.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I dislike Xtol in principle, as I prefer high acutance and great tonality over the finest grain. I shot some Acros at EI 50 in night conditions and developed in Prescysol EF - similar to Pyrocat HD, I like the results.<br>

 

<p ><img src="webkit-fake-url://D75B31AA-D97F-431A-8DDB-E33699DE8036/3511647577_06bf7c2957_b.jpg" alt="3511647577_06bf7c2957_b.jpg" /></p>

</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...