Some interesting developers

[MTC Photography]

<p>I come across a link</p>

<p><a href="http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#Caffenol_LC_plus_C">http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#Caffenol_LC_plus_C</a><br>

It has some quite easy to prepare developers, such as caffenol and H&W Control.<br>

His H&W Control is two solution version, he dissolve phenidone not in water but in isopropyl alcohol<br>

as a separate solution, mix it at use. This method may solve the problem of rapid oxidation of<br>

H&W Control.<br>

For Agfa Copex Rapid, 15 minutes<br>

I shoot often with Copex Rapid in Edixa 16M, development with 1:200 Rodinal yields negatives on<br>

the contrasty side, I may try to use this two solution H&W Control</p>

<p> </p>

[cmonkey]

<p>Nice link Martin. You often hear of some of these formulas, but no one really has the specifics worked out. As I love to work in the darkroom these days, when I can, I plan to try some of these. Have you been using the caffenol type developers?</p>

<p>As a side note, I have not been on Photo.net a lot since I joined, but it would be nice to allow people to share links in their profiles. I could go to someone's profile, whom I like, and see some great resources. I know the problem is the expiration of pages, but there are some sites that are pretty constant. Cheryl.</p>

[robbedoes]

<p>Hi Martin,<br>

Maybe you can help me out on this one.<br>

I'm planning to try 510 Pyro on Copex, and other films if I like the results. But I've problems finding the right agtation.<br>

Copex + Spur needs 6 min in Jobo (agi: 30s const then once per sec)<br>

In a Minox tank the combi needs 10 min (agi: pumping constantly)</p>

<p>Pyro in a normal tank will need about 20 min (agi: 60 sec constantly then 60sec after 10 minutes)</p>

<p>So I think Pyro in a Minox tank needs some 35 minutes. But what about the agitation? I don't want to pump forever :-)</p>

<p>Do you have any idea?</p>

<p>Regards, Rob</p>

[murray_kelly]

<p>I would love to contribute but the system prevents me.<br>

Murray</p>

[murray_kelly]

<p>All I get is ' no accept'<br>

Murray</p>

[robbedoes]

<p>But as I can see, you can post messages. What is the problem then???</p>

[murray_kelly]

<p>Dunno. My wordy reply was rejected.<br>

Murray</p>

[robbedoes]

<p>Maybe as a pdf or rtf? Oh no, only image files...</p>

[murray_kelly]

<p>One more attempt - the sysop has found a flaw & thinks it's fixed.<br>

Thanks, Martin. It looks a lot like Don Qualls site. He is active on the Sub-mini yahoo list and in the large format group as the Silent One. <br /> <br /> I remember commenting there that the H&W as published didn't look too long lasting to my eyes and it would be better to make it a 2 stock solution brew, with all the sulfite in the first bottle with the active ingredients and all the accelerator (carbonate) in a second, plastic, bottle. That's if you are homebrewing, of course. Just remember to mark on the bottles how much of each it needs to get the working developer. :-) Nothing worse than coming back in a few months and you can't recall how much of each went with how much water! <br /> <br /> With my store bought Bluefire developer I merely put the baggie with the phenidone etc in some glycol in one bottle and the carbonate in water in the said plastic bottle - both in the fridge. <br /> <br /> True, there is some small amt of sulfite in the first bottle that doesn't disolve without great heat, so I don't bother. I just stir it up before sucking up whatever I need in the syringe. Disolves instantly in the water of dilution. <br /> <br /> If you are homebrewing just putting the HQ and Phenidone in glycol is another reasonable way to go. That way the SO3 and CO3 go together in their own bottle. <br /> <br /> I have used H&W with both ImagelinkHQ (I have way too much) and Agfa Copex Rapid. I keep trying other brews, tho, to get better pictorial results with the Imagelink. Next attempt will be 510-pyro at 1:250 or 1:500. Pyrocat HD 1:1:250 has been recommended to me too by someone who uses IL-HQ a great deal. Both used as long stand developers. <br /> <br /> I note, too, he suggests HC-110 at 1:125. I have tried that and think even more dilute as a long stand developer might be better. eg 1:250. <br /> <br /> Pat Gainer's phenidone - Ascorbic acid - borax gave pretty good results too. Nice low pH for slow working and I was sure I was getting more than an EI of 100 with the Copex Rapid. <br /> <br /> Did they cease making Rodinal Special? I bought 2 x 125ml in Europe last year when I was there but didn't try it yet. <br /> <br /> Cheers <br /> <br /> Murray <br /> -- <br /> </p>

[MTC Photography]

<p>Murray, thanks for your tips for 2 bath phenidone developer.</p>

<p>I bougth 2 x 125ml from <a href="http://www.lumiere-shop.de">http://www.lumiere-shop.de</a> , they stop carrying this product<br>

silverprint.co.uk still has this product on their catalog.</p>

[robbedoes]

<p>Hi Murray and Martin,<br>

<br /> I am also at the point of putting some Copex 8x11 in 510-pyro bath.<br /> Jay gave me the following params to get started:<br /> Developer: 510-Pyro<br />Dilution: 1:300<br />Time: 20:00<br />Temp: 70F<br />Agitation: 1:00 initial, 1:00 at 10:00 minutes of development (1/2 way point)<br /> I'm trying to convert these parameters for development in my Minox tank.<br /> What would you do?<br>

<br /> Bye,<br>

<br /> Rob <br /></p>

[murray_kelly]

<p>Hi Rob. Jay gave me the same sort of directions, too. I have even seen 1:500 for longer time of course.<br>

I use a regular tank so cannot advise you how to go about using it. I believe Martin uses one, tho. I need 100ml for the 16mm but he gets away with 80ml for the Minox.<br>

Just scanned some Imagelink HQ last night and the H&W was better than the Technidol. The H&W had better continuous tones IMO.<br>

Hard to measure such tiny amounts. I have an insulin syringe but even with that it looks no bigger than a drop in the bucket!<br>

I will be very keen to hear how 510 goes. It is high on my list of 'try next'<br>

Murray</p>

[robbedoes]

<p>!:500... With such small amounts you can try “in camera development” :-)<br>

I'll wait and see if Martin has some advice.</p>

<p>Success,</p>

<p>Rob </p>

 

[jack_dong]

<p>during my looking for a better developer for kodak microfilm,I ever try caffenol for kodak imagelink FS 1455,over nearly 2 hours developing,and got this type pics, shot by minox A8X11MM, I don't think it is a bread-&-butter formular,it will cost so long time,and the density is also very thin.</p><div></div>

[jack_dong]

<p>ANOTHER ONE</p><div></div>