Just got a new a 50mm 1.4. How should I use it wide open?

[oofoto]

<p>Alex, very nice and in sharp focus too. Also in good window light I notice.</p>

[BelaMolnar]

<p>Congratulation Alex. You see! In a short time, you all ready learned a lot. As I said before, you just has to practice, close down the lens a little bit, more ISO sped, and practice. This last two images are very good.</p>

[jphotog]

<p>Alex,<br>

I had the same problem with moving objects until I started focusing manually. It was like a small revelation to me. I have an AF-S lens and I use a single focus point to get a rough focus and then I follow whatever (the closest eye) that I want in focus with the manual focus override. With the D700 viewfinder it was simpler than I expected.<br>

Regards,<br>

Jonas</p>

[touchinglightphotography]

<p>Alex:<br>

As one person already mentioned, backing up a bit may give you better depth of field. Hence, for "whole body" images (or images taken from an even greater distance), the DOF may well be sufficient for sharp images - even at f/1.4 to f/2.0. There are situations with growing kids where an f/1.4 lens was very nearly my only way to capture an image (especially in the days when I shot on my "old" Canon 10D!). For example, my youngest son was into gymnastics for many years, and trying to capture the (rapidly) moving kids with acceptable low-noise (ISO 400) in dimly lit gymnasiums required a large aperture. I typically had best luck with f/2.0 (eventually, I ended up shooting gymnastics with a 135 f/2.0 lens - great...and once with a 200mm f/1.8 (rented!) - fantastic). </p>

<p>With the newer camera bodies giving better low noise captures to higher ISOs, there may be less need for f/1.4, but as a few of the respondents have shown, this wide aperture at the right distance can capture wonderful images of kids with both eyes in focus ... when all goes well! The f/1.4 50mm lens still has its place (I often carry mine along when I want the flexibility it affords!).</p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

[charleseagan]

<p>Your problem is not with the lens, it's with the camera. D40 is fine but for available light photography, I've heard the D700 is at the top of its class. I've seen some high ISO samples and have been impressed. To increase the DOF, of course you need to stop the lens down 5.6 or even smaller, and compensate with a higher ISO. I'm considering trading in my Mamiya 645 Pro TL for the Nikon D700 for the sole purpose of taking natual light photos.</p>

[oofoto]

<p>Available light doesn't have to mean low light or require high ISO. The camera used by the OP is a Canon 40D not a Nikon D40.</p>

[matt_m__toronto_]

<p>no stupid questions alex. do you have any understanding of depth of field and its relationship to subject to focal plane distance? learn how far away you need to be at 1.4 to get both eyes in focus (if that's what you want). at certain distances, and 1.4, we have only mm's of acceptable focus. can be tricky, but when you get it, i think you'll be happy.<br>

here's an example of a street shot taken with a 50mm at 1.8 (if i recall correctly). i wish i had nailed the focus on the man's right eye, but the nose and a bit of the left is acceptable, so i'm happy with the image. just don't sweat it and keep shooting</p><div></div>

[matt_m__toronto_]

<p>"To increase the DOF, of course you need to stop the lens down 5.6 or even smaller, and compensate with a higher ISO." - Charles Eagan<br>

while this statement is not false, you do not need to stop down to 5.6 to 'increase the DOF'. stoping down even half to one stop may suffice for the shot you want to take. sometimes you may have no choice but to shoot wide open to get a useable shutter speed/iso combination to capture the shot. if you have full control of the situation, then shoot with the fstop/shutter speed you need to get the shot you want. if that means 2.8/30th sec to stop motion blur and get both eyes in focus, then so be it.<br>

happy shooting :)</p>

[stephen_asprey2]

<p>Yep...the old 1.4 DOF. We used to say in the old days a 1.4/50 at f1.4 had 1.4 inches of DOF. Yes, you could stop it down to 3.5 if you can go down 3-4 stops in speed...but only if your camera can do that. In the old days you could also push the film in processing too. Today you are stuck with what ISO range the camera has.<br>

Its certainly not the fault of the lens...its just that you want to do low light with no flash, and that opens up a whole set of variables.</p>

[ty_mickan]

<p>unless you shoot sport, forget autofocus. the closer you are to the subject the less workable dof you will have.</p>

[weinell]

<p>Hi Alex,<br>

Traditionally, the most popular portrait lenses (in the full frame format) have fallen in the range of 85mm to 135mm. Your 50mm lens on an APS sensor camera translates to about 75-80mm, so you should be OK so long as you don't get too close. Wider angles at close distances tend to widen or exagerate facial features like the nose.<br>

I might of missed it, but I didn't see if you had got the Canon or the Sigma lens. Both are good lenses, but I've heard that the Sigma has some quality control issues.<br>

There are many advantages to a 1.4 lens at any focal length; but people rarely shoot at 1.4 because, as you've discoved, the DOF is very restrictive. Unless you are specifically striving for a certain effect, most of us stop down to f/2.8 or more. With moving targets like kids, I'd go with at least f/5.6. <br>

So, why pay extra for f/1.4? First of all, it makes for a much brighter viewfinder. This is important for low light situations whether you are focusing manually or automatically (any autofocus system needs a certain amount of light to work properly). Secondly, there are occasions when flash is not appropriate, and f/1.4 means the difference of getting a shot or not. Sometimes, any shot is better than no shot.<br>

As someone else has already pointed out, you should use the center focusing point as much as possible. This is the most sensitive focus point; I leave mine locked on the center point. Next, check the autofocus by placing the camera on a tripod or solid support and focus on some text at different distances. See if the images are acceptably clear to you. Some lenses do vary greatly among various copies. If it's not right, take it back and get another copy.<br>

Good luck. Remember that automation is no substitute for experience. Practice, practice, and practice. The great thing about digital is you get immediate feedback to learn from, and the lessons come cheaper than they did with film.<br>

Don</p>

[df]

<p>1.4 is a great lens. With the digital magnification factor it gets close to being a great portrait lens. Try shooting in an aperture mode with more or less DOF. It really works with exisiting light in front of a North facing window. Practice with with an adult model until you get the facial angles you like the best. Then put your child in a chair and shoot, shoot, shoot. You are almost guaranteed to get some keepers, especially in B&W. </p>

[bryan_lardizabal]

<p>Alex,<br>

Here's some thought to help you solve the dilema of lens application:<br>

1) Take only one lens and shoot it for a one week period<br>

2) Vary the apertures, shutter speeds & subjects.<br>

3) Save those images to a folder with that lens name<br>

4) Repeat for another lens, and so on.<br>

Finally, compare the results...the insight gained should answer all your concerns.</p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>To the question in the subject line of your original post, Alex, I have a simple answer: <strong>DON'T<em> </em></strong>(use it wide open, that is). The EF 50/1.4 is one of the sharpest lenses I've ever used, but not until it's stopped down a bit. From f/2 on it's very good, and by f/4 it's quite simply staggering.</p>

<p>Now you might ask, <em>Why get a fast lens that's not at its best at its maximum aperture? </em>My response is, <em>Because it's so good once stopped down. </em>The optical formula of the EF 50/1.4 is based on the optical formula of the FD 50/1.4, and that lens is one of the most loved (and utilized) lenses that Canon has ever made.</p>

<p>Do you recall the adage, <em>If it ain't broke, don't fix it? </em>It certainly applies to any of Canon's 50/1.4's.</p>

[bob_osullivan]

<p>Alex:</p>

<p>There's more to DOF than just the aperture. The focal length of the lens and the distance from the lens to the subject also matter. 28 or 30mm will give you more DOF at 1.4 than the 50 will. Do a search for DOF calculator. It may held you to understand how to work with that lens better.</p>

<p>As for buying Sigma, I wouldn't worry about that. Like all brands they have thier cheap stuff, but the higher end products are fine. It's been many years since the old compatibility issues. And the 30 1.4 from Sigma is reported to be a bit better than the Canon version.</p>

[axel-cordes]

<p>Hello, sorry I did not read all - if said already sorry.<br>

>is a Canon 40D<br>

What I learned is that the non pro Cameras do have a problem when it comes down to f1.4 as they do slightly front focus a little amusing the f is mostly > 2.8 or so and so the focus in the rear (2/3) is more on the sure side. This does not work when coming down to f1.4<br>

I was running on a Canon 10D long time having a 30mm 1.4 and never was fine with my focus - now running on a 5D with a 50mm 1.8 (only) I'm really happy with the focus.<br>

Probably also the cameras are adjusted more or less good by Canon.<br>

It's digital - do some test shots on a not moving and light stable object - and you will find some aha's.<br>

F1.4 on a near object will be short DOF ever - but you will find to use it sometimes in a fine way.<br>

Another thing: Having f1.4 and setting to f1.8 will lead to use the lens not at the most open f and though a better image quality.<br>

I recommend to do a test through all F's and have a detailed view to the outcome - you will learn a lot and later use f8 much more ;-)<br>

All the best<br>

Regards Axel<br>

PS Focus Test: http://www.photo.net/learn/focustest/</p>

 

[oofoto]

<p>The 10D did have focus problems (mine did also).<br>

The 40D as nicely demonstrated by Alex can achieve sharp focus when used correctly.</p>

 

[steve_crist]

<p>Since you have a 40D dial the ISO up to 1000 to allow the lens to stop down a bit. That camera has decent low-noise capability. Shoot in the daytime and open all the drapes. You should be fine. Otherwise you'll need to use flash. </p>

[briancorll]

<p>I would simply skip the AF and use MF when shooting wide open with this lens (I have one). AF is too inaccurate for a close-up of an object (or person) that may move ever so slightly. Use MF to keep up with it and shoot when you have a brief still moment.</p>

[xavier_henri]

<p>Several mention using the centre focusing point and recompose. This may <a href="http://www.outbackphoto.com/workshop/phototechnique/essay06/essay.html">not be a good idea</a>, especially if your subject is quite off centre, as the resulting distance error may be greater than depth of field.<br>

If your subject remains inside the third lines it is generally not a problem except, as a rule of thumb in FF below 2 meters at f/4 and below 1 meter at f/2. In those conditions, depth of field is so small that you must either use an off center focusing point or manual focus in zoomed LiveView.</p>

[mvw photo]

<p>I have the same problem you are having. With both my 1D3 and my 1DS3,only 60%-80% of my shots are sharp - the rest, the camera misses.</p>

<p>They've been checked by Canon, who get the same results. It appears that Canon autofocus is just unreliable, at last on the 1Ds3 and 1D3. I am sorry I bought the 35/1.4 and 50/1.4... using them just at 2.8 now (and that is fine).</p>

<p>(And yes I am a professional who knows the theory and who knows how the camera works...)</p>

<p>Michael</p>

<p> </p>

[mvw photo]

<p>Also, my subjects do not move.Nor do I.</p>

<p>Try this, everyone: Shoot someone at 1.4 in window light. Use a dummy if you like. Focus on closest eye, i.e.a nice contrasty subject. Or shoot a brick wall. From 10ft away, say. Using one focus point. Use centre point; do not recompose. Ensure you are at 1/5-10x lens length (eg with 50mm, be at 1.500th) to exclude motion blur. Shoot. Repeat ten times.</p>

<p>When I do that with a Nikon D300: ten sharp shots. With my 1D and 1Ds: five to nine sharp shots and 1-4 way backfocused or frontfocused shots.</p>

<p> </p>