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My first protest


stevecarlson

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<p> I dont want to take sides, So I would not get into details. I went to take photo's and would like to hear insight from people that have done them before. <br>

So please can we keep this about photos only<br>

Some of the basics I have learned are<br>

1. Good shoes are a must, ouch<br>

2. less grear is better, ouch<br>

3. a second camera would be nice, costly, but nice<br>

4. But the most inportent, I repeat most, is more than 1-"2 gig card" (DSLR)<br>

I was asked though, if I would share the photo's with the group that held the protest.<br>

What I am asking is, Who else has insigh or ideas that might help me decide the best way to handle the next protest. Thank you Steve</p>

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<p>unless you are a photojournalist working for a "news" organization, there's nothing wrong with taking "sides." especially if it's a non-violent protest, i see no problem with concentrating on the protesters and creating a visual record of their protest.<br>

if you're talking about riots, melees and disturbances, i'd suggest a long telephoto lens....<br>

seriously, if there's going to be rock throwing, burning cars, tear gas, police batons across your skull, i wouldn't take anything i couldn't afford to lose or have destroyed. and remember to bring your "get out of jail free" card.</p>

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<p>"corps."</p>

<p>Share the photos with everyone. Although, I will tell you from my younger print days, that if you personally deliver a copy to people who granted you access or interviews, they will be grateful. They will want to hear what you had to say, and see what you wanted to photograph. Deliver with courage, and stand behind what you had to say. In the end, people will respect that. </p>

<p>Sometimes, people said to me, Why did you include this? I told them directly, I had to show the tough questions. While they may not always like the answer, sometimes they respect it. In the long run, that can help; fair and balanced, before that phrase was fashionable among polticos. </p>

<p>On one hand, you will want to avoid "prior restraint," a form of censorship that occurs before publication. Meanwhile, there's no reason why you can't treat people who helped you out to their own personal copy. That's a great way not only to share photos and text with the people in that protest, but with people you come across in general. I would suggest for electronic media, a PDF file of the completed layout sent to their email address at the same time you put it up on the web. For print media, make sure they get a copy of the final pub. Courtesy copies are just a part of doing business.</p>

<p>For ideas, don't be afraid to get close. Although some people look scary, even they can often recognize that a little publicity will help their cause; after all, it is a public protest. Before and after interviews mean you've scored where others have failed. J.</p>

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<p>Here's <a href="../street-documentary-photography-forum/00T3yM">a thread</a> that might be helpful with choosing gear...</p>

<p>I don't do demonstrations or the like, but I do cover day-long events with crowds. All the things you mention are key. I generally carry two bodies, a backpack of lenses, and about 30 Gb of cards - oh yeah, <strong>very </strong> comfortable shoes! </p>

<p>I'll second press credentials. I've never used mine to "get out of jail", but they will often allow you to get outside of the crowd. That has two advantages: 1) you may have a better shot of the "main attraction", and 2) you can shoot back toward the crowd to get reaction shots. I also like using the crowd as an element in a photo to help set the scene.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>3. a second camera would be nice, costly, but nice</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Take a p&s. Image quality will be just fine in daylight and it's nicer to shoot people at close range without that big lens staring. Also, focusing errors won't be as evident if things get a bit too exciting and people don't see p&s as professional (if they see it at all) so you may get more non-posed shots up close. Or perhaps not, just a thought about cheap solution that may have some pro's on its own right.</p>

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<p>I would probably take a handful of business cards with me. Make them simple, maybe just a name and email address so you can hand them out to people and tell them to email as to where they can find the images once posted. Maybe also include a website to market yourself as well.</p>
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<p><strong><em>"ideas that might help me decide the best way to handle the next protest."</em></strong><strong><em></em></strong></p>

<p>Done a few, a while ago: – adapted my techniques to suit a DSLR, and assuming outside and daylight, assuming it is <em>your</em> gear (i.e. not press pool cameras): Two small consumer bodies, second hand will suffice - perhaps even better that they are. Two lenses, one wide one longish; on an APS-C around a 20mm and 85mm - which makes most kit zooms really handy as one of the lenses - if that is suitable then perhaps a 100 or 135 might be more useful as the telephoto lens, considering that most kit zooms run to 55mm .</p>

<p>Adapt the camera function for the wide or zoom lens, such that you have AF at centre, perhaps on a different function button other than the shutter release and learn to compose and shoot from the hip and above the head. Suggest using P (Programme) mode for this camera. Use this camera on a wrist strap.</p>

<p>When using the camera with the telephoto lens, do not clamp it to you eye such that your peripheral view is blinded - rough image framing is OK, cropping later is preferable to missing another shot or avoiding violence upon you. This camera I would use Av and set it a about F8. Use this camera on a neck strap. The telephoto camera ISO 800, would be a good starting point.</p>

<p>Learn to have faith in both the wrist strap and neck strap, so you can let either camera just fall to swap cameras - that is another reason why light weight is good. And also that is why cheap is good. IMO white or large lenses and large cameras attract attention, too.</p>

<p>An 8 Gb card in each would be suitable for me, I would likely shoot single shot. Depending upon the end use, and one’s faith in camera and ability, I would consider JPEG only. My point is I would not be changing any cards, on site.</p>

<p>Display your credentials in a laminate and securely fastened. Do not wear a cap with a peak: it reduced vision. Carry adequate water.</p>

<p>On another comment: I have two Canon P5 IS, they have been used for close quarters candid work in crowds, and successfully: if you decide a P&S is an option, one major obstacle to overcome is the shutter lag - that is important to note both for eye level viewfinder shooting and using from the hip techniques. <br>

<br />WW</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>...do not clamp it to you eye such that your peripheral view is blinded - rough image framing is OK...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Excellent point. A long eye relief finder is a real asset to photojournalism and candid photography in crowds. If you can see most of the finder without mashing the camera against your face you'll have better peripheral vision. Even if the crowd isn't dangerous you're less likely to be a hindrance to others when you can sense what's going on around you.</p>

<p>Some folks complain about the reduced magnification of a long eye relief finder (such as the F3HP and D2H I use routinely), but I've enjoyed these finders for several years, more so than any other. I'm left-eye dominant, so it's especially helpful to be able to leave a bit of a gap between my face and back of the camera since my right eye is almost completely blocked.</p>

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