How do you clean your mounted slides before scanning?

[ellis_vener_photography]

<p>Which method do you use: fluids, dustoff (canned air), compressed air, electrostatic and brushes?</p>

[patricklavoie]

<p>when i was doing scan, i use compressed air (compressor) electrostatic cloth, and i had a special place where i can control the humidity level (60%-70% help getting less dust floating around) and had a electrostatic silence device that can *suck* dust around a 6-8 feet radius...as you can see i was alreayd a control freak then ; )</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>Hi Ellis, Never dustoff, because it "spits", but I did find some great dustoff like cleaner made by Beseler, that does not spit. I bought the 100 can version: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/368936-REG/Beseler_8592_24_Dust_Gun_100_Can.html</p>

<p>First I use an electrostatic brush that I use only for film and replace every few months. Then I use air. I don't know that this is the best method, but it's been working well for me. On older stuff where the dust seems to be pretty stuck, I've been using the pec-12: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71147-REG/Photographic_Solutions_PECDCS_Pec_12_Spray_4_oz.html.</p>

<p>I'm also thinking of trying the FotoSpeed cleaner (I like their other products), or the Edwal. It seems a little cheaper. Freestylephoto.biz has it.</p>

<p>I'd like to hear what other people do. Dust is the bane of my existance right now. I've heard that when I get a drum scanner or do the wet-mount thing, dust becomes much less of a problem.</p>

[steve_swinehart]

<p>Ellis - after trying nearly every technique, I've been using a Kinetronics KSE static dissapative film cleaner. But, as with everything, even that takes a "technique." I found that it needs to be turned "on" for at least 5 minutes to build up the charge on the brushes. While the brushes are grounded to the unit, it really works better after being turned on for a bit. I then use a canned air to get the dust that didn't come off with the KSE.</p>

<p>I like to pass the film through the brushes once, and then let it stand in the unit (between the brushes) for about 5-10 seconds - then pass it through one more time.</p>

<p>I've never had trouble with canned air as long as you don't turn the can at an angle. I've always found the Century Laboratories products work better than the Falcon canned air. I used to buy the stuff by the case when I was in the darkroom a lot, and never had the Century Duster spit or discharge liquid. The ones with the integral valve work even better than the ones that take the stainless secondary valve.</p>

[jimsimmons]

<p>I use the old-fashioned electrostatic brushes very slowly over the image to give it time to work its charge on the dust. Then I use the large rocket blower on both sides several times. Every now and then I beat the brush against a metal rod in an attempt to knock dust out of the bristles. I have no idea if that does anything or not, but it makes me feel better. ;-)</p>

[john_markanich]

<p>Although working in the digital world doesn't require the scrupulous pre-exposure dust removal necessary in the wet darkroom a bit of the same technique is applicable. Wear a head cap (no kidding, hair dander flies with magnetic like properties directly to film; don't know why). Remove the slide from its mount and clean both sides with PEC fluid and PEC Pads. Remount the slide in a plastic, full frame snap mount from Gepe or other supplier. With your cap still on, examine with an 8-10X loupe. Brush with an anti-static brush or blast it with (unshaken) compressed air if necessary. Check and recheck until it's completely clean.<br>

This is the routine I use when printing Ilfochromes. </p>

[john_markanich]

<p>Although working in the digital world doesn't require the scrupulous pre-exposure dust removal necessary in the wet darkroom a bit of the same technique is applicable. Wear a head cap (no kidding, hair dander flies with magnetic like properties directly to film; don't know why). Remove the slide from its mount and clean both sides with PEC fluid and PEC Pads. Remount the slide in a plastic, full frame snap mount from Gepe or other supplier. With your cap still on, examine with an 8-10X loupe. Brush with an anti-static brush or blast it with (unshaken) compressed air if necessary. Check and recheck until it's completely clean.<br>

This is the routine I use when printing Ilfochromes. </p>

[oskar_ojala]

<p>Brush and blower. For the minute amounts of dust remaining in the scan, my Wacom tablet is a way better tool to retouch the spots out than a mouse. The humidity should be reasonable and the work environment relatively dust free, makes life easier.</p>