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Nikon Coolscan V, Epson V700, and Ektar


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<p>The green sensor on my Coolscan V went on the fritz, so I scanned my latest batch of Ektar with my V700, which I use for medium format. UGGH! Instad of deep and vibrant the colors came out lifeless and dull. If I had started with the 700 I would never have realized what a wonderful film Ektar is.</p>

<p>So I have two questions:</p>

<p>Is this an Ektar thing, or do all color negative films look crummy on the 700? Note that Ektar is the only color negative film I shoot, the medium format is all E-6 which seems to scan OK.</p>

<p>And where is a good place in northern NJ to get my Coolscan fixed?</p>

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<p>Can't speak of the V700, as I have the V750. I've had no issues scanning Ektar 100 (35mm format) using Silverfast Ai Studio. Have not tried it using Epson Scan. The V500 is a different breed altogether as it uses LED lighting vs Cold Cathode, which are found in the V700/V750 and the Nikon, which could possibly explain the results Mauro is seeing.<br>

Also, make sure you experiment with the height adjustment feet on the negative carrier - proper height adjustment positioning, along with film flatness in the carrier, are two variables which seem to cause owners of the V700/750 the most problems.</p>

 

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<p>I've found the C-41 performance of my V750 quite fine with the supplied Silverfast Ai. I have NEVER used Epson Scan with the V750. (I used to suffer it on the 2450 when I needed 48-bit files, since it came with crippled 24-bit SilverFast.)<br>

Sure, my CoolScan IV does better with C-41. But the V750 is quite respectable. <em>(Way</em> better than the 2450 in color response.) Overexposed areas are where the V750 shows it's weakness.</p>

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<p>Benny, no. I'm using VueScan on the flatbed and the Nikon scan for the Coolscan. Interesting point.</p>

<p>Don't use the Silverfast SE that came with the 700 cause of the 24 bit problem. Is there a way around that other than upgrading?</p>

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<p>Maybe it is an LED light source issue. I haven't had any real issues scanning Ektar with my Epson 4490 (cousin to the V500). Color balance seems a bit more hit and miss then with most other negative films, but it isn't a serious issue. Colors are still certainly vibrant.<br>

John, I've noticed the same problem with overexposed areas on the film with my 4490 as well. If I try to push the scanning to recover the far highlights I get a lot of color noise in the scan. Underexposed areas of negatives are just fine with the scanner, in fact it can pull shadow areas really, really well...but the highlights. Oh well, it does a good job on most things, so long as the film is exposed correctly.</p>

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<p>The main problems of the V500 are:<br /> 1) Low Resolution (Just north of 2000dpi)<br /> 2) Low Dmax (very bad on shadows and highlights - of properly exposed film)<br /> 3) Digital noise<br /> 4) ICE artifacting at 6400 (ICE should only be used at 2400 on the Epson Scan)<br /> 5) Poor color rendition</p>

<p>You may have seen my results posted in other threads. I would not use the V500 other than for previweing film.</p>

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<p>The main problems of the NIKON 9000<br>

1. Cost, 2500 with glass holder if you can find one<br>

2. Inadequate detail for large prints<br>

3. Some galleries, stock agencies, and art directors frown upon coolscan scans<br>

4. Serious reliability issues well documented on this forum with slow as mollasess turnaround time by Nikon<br>

5. Seriously lags behind a Tango Drum Scan for LARGE prints though adequate for less critical work and small "gallery" prints exhibited at your local Starbucks. <br>

I would not use the Nikon 9000 for critcal work but would, like many, send my best work out for professional scans. However, I would use a 150 dollar V500 to proof my work as it saves me quite a bit of cash versus having a coolscan that I know fails to achieve the full potential of my medium format film.</p>

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<p>John Photo,<br>

Do you shoot 6x7? Why do you consider the detail of your scan with a Coolscan 9000 inadequate?</p>

<p>If you don't mind me asking, what camera, scanner, and printer do you have?<br>

6x7 and a Coolscan 9000 gives you the best quality possible short of a drum scan? Who frowned on you with that?</p>

 

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<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=491528">John Photo</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"></a>, Mar 20, 2009; 02:25 a.m.</p>

 

<p>The main problems of the NIKON 9000<br>

<br />5. Seriously lags behind a Tango Drum Scan for LARGE prints though adequate for less critical work and small "gallery" prints exhibited at your local Starbucks.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p> So what is a LARGE print?<br>

Do you have a 100% crom from a Tango Drum scan?</p>

<p>I have looked at this site, but the scans were only done at 2400 so it is kind of hard to tell just how well it would do at higher ppi.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/scan-comparison/">http://www.largeformatphotography.info/scan-comparison/</a></p>

 

<p>It is surprisingly hard to find full res samples from most drum scanners. </p>

 

 

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<p>John Photo,</p>

<p>a) how much do you spend a month on drum scans (i.e how many pictures make it pass your V500 rough proofing)?<br>

b) is $2,500 that much then?<br>

c) if you shoot 645 and drumscan, you will get better quality shooting 6x7 and using a Coolscan.</p>

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<p>Yes, the Epson V700 comes with the crippled 24-bit SilverFast LE. That's why I paid the extra bucks for the V750, I wanted the full 48-bit SilverFast Ai which comes with it. Yes, you can upgrade from LE to Ai, but I it costs more than the price difference between the V700 and V750.</p>
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  • 2 weeks later...
<p>I get the best results scanning from my V700 using the 48 bit hdr option in Silverfast SE. Save it as a tiff file, then open it in Camera Raw in PS. Be sure to use scanner sharpening and set gamma gradation to at least 2.2 (I set it at 2.5). I find file manipulation far easier in Photoshop, than trying to muck around too much in scanner software.</p>
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  • 2 weeks later...

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