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Using a circular polariser


saurav_g

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Michael,

 

assuming of course that Saurav uses an SLR. For rangefinders, look through the polarizer and turn the two parts against each other until you like the result. Then put the polarizer onto the front of the lens withOUT moving their absolute and relative angles. [A task almost impossible to achieve for RF cameras.]

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<I>[A task almost impossible to achieve for RF cameras.]</I>

and for view cameras as well. <P>The way I make sure I do it

right is to use Heliopan's polarizers. The heliopan filters have

reference numbers on the rotating part of the filter. Ihold the

polazizer up to my eye and rotate the filter to the degree I desire

and then look to see what the number is at the top ofthe filter.

The back part of the filter assembly in all polarizers is merely the

attachment ring ffor mountingthe filter on the camera lens. I

attach the filter and then rotate the filter so the number that was

on top when I held it up to my eye is back on top. This feature

alone makes the Heliopan filters worth the (slightly) extra money.

The high quality glass, heavy brass contruction of the rings and

especially the neutral make it a bargain.color ofthe filter make

the Heliopan a bargain.

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yes, what Ellis said. I bought the Heliopan pola from his recommendation several years ago, and it is indeed a finely crafter, solid piece. My technique was to mount the filter to the lens with the torque I prefer, and make a pencil mark at the very top of the filter attachment ring (not the rotating ring that bears the index numbers). To get the rotation, I hold the filter in the plane of focus, pencil mark at the top - turn the rotating ring, find the best setting, and simply attach the filter with the pencil mark at the top. Never had a problem, so I conclude the so-called deficiencies of RF cameras WRT filters is exaggerated. NDs are more tricky and require testing for apertures and lenses, but are effective once the results of tests are known. cheers,
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  • 2 weeks later...

My 2 cents ... usually it is to pop the colors on foliage, reduce the glare for instance on leaf surfaces. Makes green foliage more lush. Also, to darken the sky when the sky is otherwise too bright, but not quite bright enough to begin using ND grads. For fall foliage, for instance, it really makes reds more red by reducing the glare from the sun. For water shots, it removes reflections and allows you to see into the water, good if you are shooting trout shots as I like to do sometimes.

 

Cheers,

Tom

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