Beginner wanna buy a whole set of B&W processing gears.

[jiajun_yang]

<p>Hi there.<br>

I would like to process my B&W films recently.But i have to get the gears before i can do it.<br>

So i hope you guys can give me some advices of what kind of gears i should buy.<br>

BTW.i know what i need to have have ,but i dont know which one,for example,which developer is better and with good price.Or where can i purchase the whole set of the gears.second-hand might be awesome.<br>

Thx all and looking forward ur advices.</p>

[bob_sunley]

<p>I can give you some places to buy new stuff, but where in the world are you?<br>

Try craigslist for starters, for used equipment. Try www.freestylephoto.biz for new.<br>

Checkout www.ilfordphoto.com for howto's. Stick with easy to use liquid concentrates for starters, Ilford's products are good ones.<br>

See if there is a local photo shop where you live to buy your stuff, that may include free "tech support".</p>

 

[jiajun_yang]

<p>I live in UK atm.<br>

thank u so much for ur concern.</p>

[jiajun_yang]

<p>THe city i live is cardiff.But i dont seen many good photo shop here. most of them are really expensive.SO i would go on line.<br>

And i just bought a pack of ilford's which included dev,stop,fixer.</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>One of the things you could do to understand pricing would be to look at some ads for used equipment; it's common for an individual selling off his old stuff to sell the darkroom equipment as a package. Enlarger, safelight, trays, timer, etc. will often all be in there. For darkroom, aside from chemistry, really it will be enlarger, timer and safelight or developing tank kit for negatives: that will be the order of expense from most expensive to least expensive. The remaining items are all lower cost, you could budget for those as a group. </p>

<p>Try classifieds, commercial used retailers (better for cameras than darkroom) and online auction sites. I went to one online auction and was shocked at the low prices. Hitch with those is shipping; some of the items are bulky and can weigh in; but, it will still give you an idea about pricing. </p>

<p>Read up on what you think you would need; when you say you don't know what you will need to get, I'm not sure what you mean. Like, you will need an enlarger; but, these are usually sold all together; I don't know if you know enough to scrutinize if something is missing to make the darkroom function. One thing you could do is draw up a list, post it, and I guess somebody could give it a once over to make sure it's complete (will be able to help you make images from Day One). </p>

<p>You are aware that the basic categories will be: enlarger (with lens, lightbulb and negative carrier), timer, safelight, paper safe (light tight box for storing paper, optional if you are economizing), focuser/grain magnifier (helps to check perfect focus), and easel (optional; it's a frame like device that makes it easy to line up the paper in the dark), at least three trays (four is better, so you have one for rinse), three tongs, a thermometer (long, glass thermometer works best; can't read it in the dark, but they last longer and are usually more responsive), two graduated cylinders for measuring and mixing solutions (plastic preferred because of fumbling).</p>

<p>For negative development, the list will be: changing bag (optional, but really helpful; any place of total darkness works), developing tank and reels (get stainless, they're easier to use and keep clean; others will advocate plastic). Other items needed will be included in the list above; those are: thermometer and graduated cylinders.</p>

<p>If you are a Day One beginner, it helps to have a ruined strip of film to practice loading the tank with; also, it helps to have a ruined sheet of photo paper (glossy surface easy to see in the safelight by reflections) to help line up the enlargements and practice focusing. I still use a ruined sheet of paper when I am cropping; it helps get the positions right. Okay, so it's somebody else's turn; write back and be sure to let us know how it's going. There are sure to be follow up questions. J.</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>You will also want some bottles to store solutions in. For the bigger volumes, I use buckets with rubber-gasketed lids. [Others will object to this practice, but I love it. Stackable, storable, large volume, spill resistant, "unbreakable".] Idea there will be that you will prefer containers that allow you to have the least amount of air above the solution. This is because photochemicals use redox reactions; because they oxidize and reduce as part of their processing cycle, exposing them to air contributes to wearing them down. The solutions will sometimes oxidize to a rust color. It's just like any other form of rust, except this will happen with a liquid. So, containers that are about the same volume as the solutions you mix will be helpful. </p>

<p>It would also be helpful to have two or three others as spares; idea there would be that you could mix up your chemicals, put them in the three containers. Then, when some of them are used for the day, but still usable, you could put them in their own container for re-use later. If you do this, your fresh solutions will stay fresh. Some of these chemicals you are about to use will stay fresh for a long time, sometimes months, if they are kept free of contamination. So, having a few jugs or bottles on hand is a cheap way to conserve your resources. </p>

<p>These bottles will be opaque; so, you will want to label them. Easiest, cheapest, fastest labeling is masking tape and a felt tip marker (Magic Marker). You can also feel the tape in the dark; since a lot of other surfaces feel different, the tape can be helpful. Tape will come in two basic colors, paper and blue. Use the color that contrasts with the color of the surface you are applying it to, and it will be even easier to detect the tape with your night vision. For example, I keep three wide pieces of paper masking tape in stripes along my solution bottles. One stripe for developer, two for stop bath, three for fixer. Very easy to discriminate the bottles in the dark. </p>

<p>Okay, that's enough for now from me. Good luck. J.</p>

[kari v]

<p>Developers. They all work just fine, pick one and keep it simple. Kodak D76 / Ilford ID-11 is a classic. Every time someone asks which developer is best with film x you get pretty much every possible (and near impossible and improbable) combination. You can even develop your film in a mixture of coffee and soda if you feel like it. ;)<br>

It's a bit different if you shoot more esoteric films or do a lot of push processing but for normal stuff it's all good.</p>

<p>When you shop around check that the enlarger comes with reasonable lens(es). Nikkors and Rodenstocks are very good and quite common. I have a Leitz for 35mm but they seem to be a bit more rare. Prices are so cheap that there's no reason to use anything mediocre. 50/2.8 EL-Nikkor is a safe bet.<br>

Medium format capable enlargers are sturdy but if you feel like buying one ask and make sure it comes as 35mm capable too. (I presume you're shooting 35mm.)</p>