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Power pack for speedlites


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<p>I use a Pulsar (bought through eBay). You can use the battery pack with up to 16AA batteries (which last a long, long, long time. Recycling time is pretty fast as well but of course not as fast as some other much more expensive options but for about $100 it is pretty good.</p>
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<p>I use a Canon CP-E3 with 580EX and 580EX II flash. As stated, it lasts longer and recycles faster. When I'm shooting an event, I also bring a CPM-E3 spare battery magazine loaded with a fresh set of AA's (and a handfull of loose ones to swap out the 580EX internal batts). The bottom of the CP-E3 soft case (that you hang on your belt, or stuff in a pocket) opens, so you can swap mags in a few seconds. It's a great setup.</p>
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<p>I have a pair of the Canon battery packs (the model that takes 8 cells). As others have stated they work well. Good price, use rechargable batteries, light weight, and they speed up the recycle time and add to the number of flashes per charge. </p>
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<p>You need to be very careful, here, or you will fry a flash. Shorter recycle time means less time for the electronics to cool down, between being heated up by the current they handle. Metz says to use a battery with at least 7 ohms of internal resistance. I would make it 10.</p>

<p>You can make a "home boy" power pack, as I did, or you can spend... as much as you want - lol</p>

<p>If you build observe polarity (!) and make a hookup that will not allow you to cross it.</p><div>00SfTS-113537584.jpg.1adb20f0309b4440099fc5e58ee453dc.jpg</div>

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<p>I've also used DL's "homeboy" mod on my 550EX. Although I wrote the following page to show mods to a Vivitar 285hv, I also show a "spiral coiled" cable I made for my 550EX....</p>

<p><a href="http://www.graphic-fusion.com/vivitar285mods.htm">http://www.graphic-fusion.com/vivitar285mods.htm</a></p>

<p>You'll have to swallow hard and cut a tiny slot in the side of your battery compartment door for the cord. I've been able to shoot entire events effortlessly on one charge, and I usually shoot a lot of pics, usually using bounce lighting (which consumes a lot of power). The basic construction is simple. You can buy fuses from your local hardware store that are the exact size of AA batteries, attach wires, and connect to the battery. It's as simple as that. Recycle times are phenomenally fast. As with anything shooting too fast too long might overheat some of the circuitry, so you should try to exercise moderation. However, I've not had trouble shooting maybe a few hundred frames at full power in the course of a few hours.</p>

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<p>I have the CP-E4. Well made, well engineered, does it's job.<br>

The main value of a battery pack is the faster recycle time. But when I switched to rechargable NiMh batteries, my recycle times dramatically improved, even without the CP-E4.<br>

Dave</p>

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<p>I used a file and just removed some of the door, itself - just enough to get the door to close, over the wires. If your flash blows and they see that your warranty is VIOD, baby! The hot setup is to get really flat wires but I don't have any of those.</p>

<p>I did this because I wanted to use a big flash (so I could impress people) for weddings. The built-in flash works very well - unless you try to exceed its range. But after a while it seems to get hot and slow your shooting down. It's interesting how that problem appeared on the 30D, and has remained, but was not present in the 20D.</p>

<p>With the big flash came big battery issues. I just can't be bothered with stopping and changing batteries. Drop one, somebody falls, because of it... Egad...</p>

<p>The flash I bought - wow - what a beast. In have to turn it down at least two notches and use the defractor screen, else everything is white. The Metz 58-af1 is one he77 of a machine but, once turned down, produces a really neat color light. I really like the thing. It's huge and impresses, just like you need it to.</p>

<p>So I made this with a 7 amper hour battery. I have shot over 600 images without the battery even slowing down the shooting rate. But even the Metz will overheat, if you don't use a little common sense. When it does you might think the battery is dead, but it's not. The flash is cooling down, and protecting itself.</p>

<p>I always said I never saw a flash pic that I liked. I still feel that way. The thing is a necessary evil. And if you try it in a completely dark room, it will show you just how evil it can be! I did not think it was possible to have that kind of power in a on-cam flash.</p>

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<p>Christopher - Sarah's page is quite good. I used wooden dowl for the dummy batteries and a brass "cup hook" (they screw in and hold cups onto the shelves in your cupboard) for the contact - drilled a hole in the dowl (AFTER sizing it) ran the wires through and soldered the cup hooks on, then broke the actual hook off, leaving a nice convex contact!</p>

<p>Ah - look - just have what you want to do firmly in mind then wander through a hardware store, looking for how you can do it with what you can find. Nuttin' to it, man!</p>

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