Jump to content

Recommended Posts

<p>Not sure if this is the proper forum, but here we go.<br>

I fully understand the pros and cons to shooting RAW file forrmat.<br>

My question regards printing.<br>

Once we convert from RAW to JPEG, have we not "clipped" off all that great data we post processed with?<br>

Who or what can print this tonality range one in the JPEG file format?</p>

<p>Pete</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>TIFF, JPEG, the end results are a rendered image from Raw data. The parametric editing instructions you define in the Raw converter may or may not clip data, depending on what you alter in that converter. </p>

<p>JPEG is not lossless however, and it only supports 8-bits so no matter what you do, you're tossing data. The encoding color space too plays a role. <br>

http://wwwimages.adobe.com/www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/family/prophotographer/pdfs/pscs3_renderprint.pdf</p>

Author “Color Management for Photographers" & "Photoshop CC Color Management" (pluralsight.com)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>The first question would be why you're converting to JPEG before printing. This seems to be a rather pointless step at best. It can make sense to convert to JPEG before posting to the web or something like that, but I see no reason to do so before printing. I'd just open the raw file in Ps (or whatever you happen to use) and print from there, with no conversion to JPEG involved.</p>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>You're correct: in converting from high-bit to 8-bit format you will lose some of the information you began with. <br>

The point of shooting RAW is the extra latitude in post-processing. It's easier to pull extra detail from the highlights and shadows in a RAW than in a JPEG or other 8-bit file, and that data will be more accurately rendered. There's also a matter of manipulating the sensitometric curve to get your tones exactly where you want them. Compressing tonalities in one area is not a problem, but to do that you have to expand them in another. This leads to discontinuities in tonality, which show up on your curve as a comb appearance, and in your final print as posterization. These problems are reduced when high-bit images are converted to 8 bits. Third, there's a matter of removing noise. The extra bits represent extra degrees of freedom to your noise reduction algorithm, allowing it to produce more limpid tonalities and creamier skin tones.<br>

There are high-bit output devices right now, they will eventually migrate to the mass market, and we will end up puling and moaning about 8-bit images. In the meantime, we can convert to 8 bits for output secure in the knowledge that it's the best possible information we can produce.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I fully understand the benefits of shooting RAW.<br>

"The first question would be why you're converting to JPEG before printing."<br>

Then (WHO) commercially will print a 12 bit RAW image weather it was converted in Capture NX or ACR?<br>

That is my question.<br>

I don't print my own images. I always send the keepers out to a professional print house.</p>

<p>Pete</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>WHCC now accepts files in aRGB as well as sRGB but they still want 'class 10' JPEG.<br>

You'll have to search around for premium fine-art type printers to see what they accept. Most places will tell you that a class 10 jpeg is indistinguishable from TIFF but hey, JPG is 8 bit and on a wide gamut space, can introduce posterization.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

<p>Hi guys, I'm new here and would like some opinions. I shoot with 14-bit RAW and the images come out amazing when processing. When I save the jpeg, the result is not as sharp, more noise is introduced, and seems a bit darker than the original RAW file.<br>

I'm not new to digital processing and I understand the bit loss, etc, but would like to know how you guys work around this. Especially for event photography where you need the best quality PRINTS. Do you send the lab the edited 14-bit RAW files? TIFF files? PSD files? Whats the best for print?</p>

<p>Thanks for the help in advance!</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...