Auto Shooter attempts Manual Suicide ...JK

[debby_c]

<p>I dread this like the denist but I know i need to learn to shoot in manual.... I find myself embarrassed when people compliment me on my shoots due to still shooting in the "auto"mode and getting paid for it. I feel like I have cheated somehow. Anyway. Boy do I have some questions.<br>

I have a upcoming shoot that will be a local school prom. I am pricing lighting kits to do it right. I intend on having a home based small budget studio anyway in the near future.. so will start purchasing for that and use it at the prom. <br>

Anyway. I don't know anything about lighting meters - strobes and such. I am truely ADD with a learning handicapped errr ....well maybe more retaining handicap with alittle comprehension problem dashed in :o) Buying books and reading manuals are useless..... excuses... excuses... ooo Im rambling and Look there's a squirrel .... [ADD moment] YouTube has been a big help but I still haven't found answers to some of my questions ...sooo<br>

Questions:<br>

1. is there such a thing as a battery backup for photographers to carry and use on locations where no power is available? I have decided to be safe and purchase a <em>continous lighting setup</em> for my starter portable/home studio thing.... Just wondering...<br>

2. If i get brave and shoot manual... can someone give me some suggestions on settings in doors low lighting? Should I shoot P S A? Or even go all the way and do MANUAL *gulp* I am going to use a D50 Nikon with a SB600 - I have had my SB600 for 3yrs and just found a feature I didn't know it had... Remember I shoot auto :o) and I spend way too much time editing ...<br>

3. Should I purchase a light meter? what type is easy for a simplton?<br>

4. How about those cute little transmitters to push a button so my camera shoots without me behind it? My Nikon D50 is kinda old. I own a tiny remote but i never used it much and was a hassle to use. I would like something I dont have to "reset" to do remote after every shot. Is there anything available now days that would work with my D50? I tried to do a search but only found something for NIkon D70 which was big brother to the D50.<br>

I'll stop for now and see if anyone will mind helping me... Sure appreciate any help given. </p>

 

[blumesan]

<p>I don't mean to discourage or disparage, but someone has to tell you the facts. You position yourself as a professional photographer (you are getting paid for your work) but you admit to an almost total ignorance of the basics of exposure; you have no knowledge of strobes, exposure meters, etc. This is not good news. Sooner rather than later this is going to become a severe handicap in succeeding as a professional.</p>

<p>So, it's time to "go to the dentist". However hard it may be, you need to educate yourself in the basics of photography. You can use books, take a course, use the tutorials available on the internet, or any combination of these that works for you. ADD (if you really suffer from this problem), while it may make learning more difficult and time consuming, does not prevent you from learning. </p>

<p>I wish you much luck and success, but it's really up to you.</p>

[Life Photo-Documentaries]

<p>Debby<br>

- I find myself embarrassed when people compliment me on my shoots due to still shooting in the "auto"mode and getting paid for it. Making a good photograph is more than AUTO o MANUAL modes. Is about COMPOSITION and "good taste" when you frame through your view finder. I want to mean that IS THEY LIKED your photographs you should not feel embarrassed, in fact many professional work in AUTO depending on that THEY NEED. <br>

- I am pricing lighting kits to do it right. I intend on having a home based small budget studio anyway in the near future.. so will start purchasing for that and use it at the prom. A lot of equipment when you do not know can be a headache more than a solution. Why? because you will be more focused on how to put to work your equipment than on the photographing process. I would suggest you to wait until you are able to CHOOSE the right kits.<br>

1. is there such a thing as a battery backup for photographers to carry and use on locations where no power is available? Yes, there are battery backups for photographers... You would need to read about their characteristics pro's and con's. Buying ANY kind of equipment is like getting marriage! You need to know and learn by your self... <br>

2. If i get brave and shoot manual... can someone give me some suggestions on settings in doors low lighting? Should I shoot P S A? Or even go all the way and do MANUAL *gulp* I am going to use a D50 Nikon with a SB600 - I have had my SB600 for 3yrs and just found a feature I didn't know it had... Remember I shoot auto :o) and I spend way too much time editing ... What to choose is a personal matter. Do you want fix depth of field? do you know what is aperture priority? When you set your flash on the camera shoe and turn it on you could set the camera S, P or A... then the flash will adjust to the different situations in different ways. You need to understand what each setting position stand for.<br>

3. Should I purchase a light meter? what type is easy for a simplton? Handheld light meters require certain training and understanding to get the better results. What happens is that the light meter measure the light (incident or reflected) and you set your camera shooting conditions according to the meter reading. This are studio techniques. If you are going to shoot an event... I think you do not need it.<br>

Debby, with all respect, I think you are intending to climb Himalayas before learning to walk. Before make such investment in equipment, I DO REALLY recommend you to LEARN. Some private classes or finding some who wants to mentor you... THEN, once you have understood all this principles, THEN decide to invest your money.<br>

If your photographs are good in AUTO mode, again, I think you have what you need inside "The Force is with you" because COMPOSITION AND AESTHETIC is something hard to get when you lack of the sense.<br>

I hope I have helped<br>

Best in your discovery trip<br>

JC</p>

[debby_c]

<p>Guys thanks for posting me. Mike - rest assured I don't call myself anything but hired help in any shoot I have done or will do.. I live in a small town where - they would rather hire me in auto (yes they know or I tell them straight up I shoot in auto and am not a pro) then pay what a pro cost. They dont get out much here honest... They think I shoot wonderfully but I know differently.. Anyway ... Mostly I get paid... say $50 like senior portraits. and they give me $100. ... or I have said $100. at a wedding and I end up getting $200. I dont print any photos... I just give them a disk with usually 100-200 pics.</p>

<p>This hobby is just something I happen to get paid for. Anyway I apppreciate your posting. I have a hard time just asking for pay which is another issue of mine *sigh* But... It only gets really bad when <em>the voices</em> start talking to me tho.... ok Im kidding... thanks for the heads up. Honest I will try to chew all my food and not bite off more than I can *choke* I just swolled my gum..... [look a squirrel] Yep I do have ADD. Thanks Mike<br>

<p><br>

JC - the next time I decide to go on a diet... will you be my coach? JC what is the name of such a battery backup I would need to search for? Thanks for the encouragement and you both remind me of teachers I knew when I was in school. Can't believe they expected me to study... *lol* I think Im just going to shoot in Auto after all. I'll bring my laptop and do some light checks with it and go from there. Thank God for LightRoom 2 ;o) Gawd I gotta head ache LOL from all this talk about learning .... May the Force be with you too JC *hugs* have a good day ya'll ~debby~</p>

[James G. Dainis]

Most scenes have equal amounts of lights and darks which average out to a middle gray. The camera meter reads the lights and darks and sets the auto exposure for that middle gray average. The camera may select 1/250 sec @ f/8 and when you press the shutter button it records at that exposure. Good shot. You may note the meter setting of 1/250 sec @ f/8, set the camera to manual, manually adjust the shutter speed to 1/250 sec and the aperture to f/8 and press the shutter button. Good shot. In fact, both shots will be identical. You just did manually what the camera meter told the camera to do automatically.

 

So why use manual? In scenes where there are not equal amounts of lights and darks the meter will not give the correct exposure. In a snow scene, for example, the meter will be "fooled" by all that white, close down and you would get a photo of gray snow. This is when you switch to manual and open up about two stops over what the meter is indicating. With enough experience you know when a scene will "fool" the meter. Then you either rely on experience, or use an incident light meter (not a reflective meter like in your camera or hand held) or take a reading off a gray card (purchased at camera stores) or take a reading off your hand with the camera meter and open up one stop or rely on the "Sunny 16" rule.

[James G. Dainis]

If you don't want to go to full manual you can try semi-manual. Start with aperture priority. In this mode you select the aperture and the camera will calculate the correct shutter speed depending on metered exposure, exposure compensation and ISO sensitivity. Aperture is displayed on the viewfinder status bar and on the top LCD, turn the command dial to select different apertures. The exact range of apertures depends on the lens used.

 

Set up a model or a chair with some bushes in the background, ten feet or further behind. Set the aperture to f/1.8 (or the fastest aperture you have on your lens) and take a picture of the model or chair. The camera will automatically select the correct shutter speed. Now set the aperture to f/16 and take another picture. The camera will again automatically select the correct shutter speed. In the photo taken with the large aperture, the bushes in the background should be slightly out of focus; in the photo taken at f/16 they should be in focus.

 

Photographers use this lower depth of field that results from a large aperture opening when taking portraits to soften the background. You could use full manual and manually also set the shutter speed, but why not let the camera do it for you?

 

Again, relying on the camera to select the correct exposure, whether in auto, aperture priority or shutter priority depends on the scene in front of it being composed of equal amounts of lights and darks. If not, then you have to go to full manual or allow for exposure compensation.

[fullmetalphotograper]

<p>Hello Debby,<br>

Let me be a little blunt. Right now you remind me of Wyle E. Coyote who is about to strap a rocket to his back. We all know how that ends with him flying off a cliff, a giant explosion and a huge boulder landing on him.<br>

Before you touch a job I would suggest you learn how to use a camera. Right now you do not know an f/stop from a hole in the ground. You may want to look at an adult school or junior college to at least learn the basics. All you are going to do now, is fail a client and damage your reputation. <br>

Lets see if we can answer your questions.</p>

<p><b><i>1. is there such a thing as a battery backup for photographers to carry and use on locations where no power is available? I have decided to be safe and purchase a continous lighting setup for my starter portable/home studio thing.... Just wondering... </i></b><br>

What makes you think continuous is easier? Hate to pop that bubble they are not any easier. You have to worry about color temperatures, actual heat from the units and significantly less power than strobe systems. Video is starting to use LCD lighting which saves energy and has less heat but cost more. You are kidding yourself if you think they are easier. I did use these setups when I shoot B&W film the basic process for setting up these lights are the same as strobes. There are some portable lights with batteries for video but they tend to be expensive and eat power very quickly. My suggestion is look at http://alienbees.com/ for lighting starter kits also look at http://www.studiolighting.net/<br>

<b><i>2. If i get brave and shoot manual... can someone give me some suggestions on settings in doors low lighting? Should I shoot P S A? Or even go all the way and do MANUAL *gulp* I am going to use a D50 Nikon with a SB600 - I have had my SB600 for 3yrs and just found a feature I didn't know it had... Remember I shoot auto :o) and I spend way too much time editing ... </i></b><br>

Every lighting situation is different. A high school gym is around f/2.8 @ 1/250 - 1/1000 with ISO 3200.<br>

Offices and Schools with Fluorescent lighting are about f/2.8 @ 1/60 - 1/250 with ISO 400.<br>

You also need to remember different light sources have different color temps. when using flash try using <a href="http://www.geocities.com/stalker+of+the+web/bounceflash.html" target="_blank">Bounce Flash</a> and <a href="http://www.geocities.com/stalker+of+the+web/dragging.html" target="_blank">Dragging the Shutter (aka Balanced Lighting)</a>.<br>

<b><i>3. Should I purchase a light meter? what type is easy for a simplton? 4. How about those cute little transmitters to push a button so my camera shoots without me behind it? My Nikon D50 is kinda old. I own a tiny remote but i never used it much and was a hassle to use. I would like something I dont have to "reset" to do remote after every shot. Is there anything available now days that would work with my D50? I tried to do a search but only found something for NIkon D70 which was big brother to the D50.</i></b><br>

If you plan on doing studio light setups then yes you do need a meter. Dumb question, but if you don't get behind the camera how do you plan to focus, it set and check the image?<br>

My big suggestion here is build up your knowledge base before potentially wasting money on bad camera gear choices. You need a greater knowledge base to make informed decisions. </p>

 

[Life Photo-Documentaries]

<p>Debby<br>

http://www.adorama.com/Catalog.tpl?page=il_refine_search<br>

http://www.elinchrom.com/<br>

These are other options to those given by Ralph.<br>

Best<br>

JC</p>

[kerry_grim]

<p>Got to bhphotoviedo.com website, and search with the word catalog. A bunch of catalogs will show up. Some available in hard copy, others in hard copy and/or pdf format. A wealth of information as to what is available.</p>

<p>I did not check with Adorama, they could also have catalogs.</p>

<p>As to getting the correct exposure, the important thing is to get it accurate, it doesn't matter how you get it. The results are what counts.</p>

[frank_dzambic]

<p>This seems to be a recurring theme here in the Beginner Forum. That because of its inherent difficulty, shooting in Manual mode is somehow the pinnacle of achievement for a photographer. It's not. It's meaningless.</p>

<p>What separates a good photographer from the herd is knowing which is the appropriate mode based on shooting conditions and the results they want. That could be any one of the creative modes (Av, Tv, P, or M) or even Auto if it gives you the results you're looking for. If people are complimenting you and you're happy with your shots, then there's nothing wrong with shooting in Auto. It's the right mode for you. They must like your compositions, or your subjects or your style enough that they don't worry about which mode you shot in.</p>

<p>Of course you should still learn how to work in the other modes to help you grow and be a more well rounded photographer. But when you think about it, what exactly is the challenge of working in "M" that inspires such awe in beginners? If you use an external light meter you simply plug the aperture and shutter speed numbers into the camera and shoot. If you're using the meter inside the camera then you simply spin the dials until the little arrow is centered under the "0" (if that's where you want it). Now if somebody could work without any sort of a light meter whatsoever and get good exposures that might be a bit impressive, though still completely unnecessary as every modern camera has a light meter built into it anyway. To me that would be shooting in Manual mode. No light meter of any kind, and you set your shutter speed and aperture every time. I guess that would be impressive.</p>

<p>So since Manual mode is just another mode to work in and not the pinnacle of photographic achievement, when should you use it? You should use it for example if you have a single subject that's staying in relatively unchanging light but the light on the background is changing wildly throwing off your camera's meter. Since the light on the subject itself isn't changing and if you're not really concerned with the background then you could find the settings that work to expose your subject properly (even taken from Auto mode) and then switch to Manual and plug in those same settings. That way you'll consistently expose your subject the way you want to frame after frame.</p>

<p>If you're mainly concerned with how sharp or blurred your background is, then work in Av mode so you can set your aperture and let the camera figure out the shutter speed for the correct exposure. If you're mainly concerned with sharpness or freezing motion or trying to get motion blur then work in Tv mode so you can set your shutter speed and let the camera figure out the correct aperture for the exposure. If your shots are coming out just fine in Auto mode, then shoot in Auto mode. Manual mode forces you to set two settings instead of one like in the other modes, and those settings were determined with a light meter anyway so what's the big deal? Don't forget that all the modes allow you to tweak the cameras settings by adding or subtracting exposure compensation. That's a manual adjustment too. So what I'm saying is that the other modes allow you to only set one setting and take a picture vs the two you have to set in Manual, and all the modes allow you to manually override the settings by adding or subtracting exposure.</p>

<p>A good photographer knows when and why to select a particular shooting mode, which metering pattern to use (spot or evaluative for example), when to add or subtract exposure compensation, etc. Shooting in Manual just for the sake of shooting in Manual is pointless and can work against you by slowing you down if Av or Tv or Auto would have been a better choice.</p>

[frank_dzambic]

<p>Just for fun, take a picture right now in Auto mode, and note the aperture and shutter speed. </p>

<p>Now switch to Manual mode and set those same settings and take the same picture. Looks the same doesn't it? </p>

<p>Now switch over to Av mode and set the same aperture and take the same picture again. The camera probably chose the same shutter speed and the picture still looks the same doesn't it? </p>

<p>Now go to Tv mode and set the same shutter speed and take the same picture again. The camera probably chose the same aperture and the picture still looks the same, doesn't it?</p>

<p>So now you've shot in a few of the different modes, all the way from Auto to full Manual, and gotten good results from each one. That wasn't so hard was it? If it makes you feel better, only show people the one you took in Manual mode.</p>

[njezrider]

<p>I am with Frank on this one. Manual VS Auto..Most people do not know the difference but if you are worried .... Take some shots. Take some notes. That is what photography is all about. IMHO</p>

[fullmetalphotograper]

<p>I haven't shoot TV, AV in 2 years but I haven't shot a Canon in 2 years. Today I do use S, A, P and M, but that is because I shoot Nikon. I am from the school you do what is necessary to complete the job. What does matter is, if you take money from a client you deliver what you promise. If you are taking a photo assignment you need to have a basic understanding of relationship of ISO, shutter speeds, f/stop and exposure. You should have some idea what lenses do what and how to control your camera. I am not saying shoot everything manually, but do have the skill set needed to complete the job.</p>

[debby_c]

<p>JC i ordered that light meter. <a href="../beginner-photography-questions-forum/JTLM6.html">JTL LM-6 Light Meter for Incident & Reflected, Flash & Ambient </a>

<p>I really am in awe of all you people helping me and assure you that I'll pass it on/ where I can- sharing what I have learned.</p>

<p>One more question. Due to using auto this last 3-4yrs.. I haven't worried about making sure the Diopter adjustment control was sharp when viewing.. Now that I will have to trust my vision on manual type modes- how do I set the <em>Diopter control</em>. Which vision would be the one needing to fine tune that slider? The manual wasn't clear on that. </p>

<p>They said: Slide the diopter adjustment control up and down until the focus brackets are in sharp focus. When operating the diopter adjustment control with your eye to the viewfi nder, be careful not to put your fingers or fingernails in your eye. <br>

<br>

Is it with corrrected vision or without? I can see fine up close w/o contacts I use contacts for distance. But I only use one contact at a time (swapping a contact) so I can have both visions -near & far. I have glasses but that was to hard to look thru the view finder with. So to adjust the viewfinder. do I look at something close or distant? With a good seeing vision or one that I will be using to see thru the eye piece that day - does it matter? dohhh</p>

 

</p>

[fullmetalphotograper]

<p>I have some retinal damage to my shooting eye so I have to use the diopter in my cameras. I pick an easy target with straight lines like a brick wall I use a longer lens use the sf to get a good target lock then adjust the diopter until it looks sharp in my viewfinder. I have done this with the D70s, D2x and D3. It has served me well so far.</p>

[frank_dzambic]

<p>Point the camera at a clear blue sky, or a plain light coloured wall. Focus your eye on whatever markings are in your viewfinder (I think you mentioned focus brackets?), and turn the diopter wheel until the viewfinder marks are as sharp as they can be. There will probably be 2 or 3 clicks where they look pretty much the same and you'll have to look really really closely to tell the difference. When you're setting it, what counts is that the viewfinder marks are sharp, not that what the lens is pointed at is sharp. As a matter of fact, have your lens defocused as much as possible when you're pointed at whatever you're pointing at to make the viewfinder marks really stand out. </p>

<p>Using Ralphs method, there's an outside chance that the AF could be off slightly, and if you're looking at the brick wall trying to make it sharp with the diopter control you'll compensate for the AF error and then all your manually focused shots will be mis-focused. The goal is to get the viewfinder marks as sharp as possible. If you shoot with contacts sometimes, and other times without, you'll probably have to adjust the diopter for each situation. But it's not a big deal to do. Oh, like the manual says, don't poke your eye out! Can't be too careful you know.</p>

[debby_c]

<p>LoL @ Frank! Waiting patiently for that lightmeter.<br>

Was looking at the goodies for sale ... light kits and have another question. </p>

<p>Anyone ever tried the gold and silver paneled umbrellas <em>where every other panel is gold & silver</em>? Would that be better than say a reversible gold one side- silver the other side umbrella? </p>

<p>And if someone had a studio kit that came with a 32 inch umbrella but wanted as much light bouncing as possible would purchasing a bigger umbrella even up to 60inch help .. more the better theory... or would it like be overkill (does it depend on the light source more than umbrella span)? Just curious.</p>

[debby_c]

<p>Hi guys,<br>

I found a site Im learning alot on ... Strobist:Learn how to light! <a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html">http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html</a> Its like a new age thing :O) well maybe not but I like em. So thats where I'll be for while. Just needed alittle push from ya'll to get me on the right path... and i .....see the light!!! The site got me hooked on thier first you tube on the site - how light (strobe) works off the camera. I was clueless!!! Anyway... as arnold would say. I'll be back..... just letting ya'll know I'm trying to learn real goud :0D~</p>