struggling with lighting -- constructive criticism?

[steve_king5]

<p>Hi all -- I'm trying to get a lot more serious using strobes and flash. Like many amateurs, my 'good' photos of people were using natural lighting and sometimes a combination of fill flash. In some cases I took advantage of good natural light and positioning, and I'm not above admitting, sometimes there were happy accidents. :)</p>

<p>Anyway.</p>

<p>Moving beyond TTL flash, I bought an old used White Lightning 10000 strobe, a cheap 5-1 reflector, and a Vivitar 285. I have a lightstand with a photoflex adapter, and two very small (stupidly) umbrellas -- one is completely white and the other is black with silver inside. I also have a piece of this funky black fabric I found at a fabric store that is felt-like and makes an interesting background.</p>

<p>I talked my wife into posing as a subject, and did some experimenting, but I'm not terribly happy with the results, and would like pointers and suggestions. I see professional portraits, and some examples here, and am blown away by how good the lighting is. Granted in many cases, the models are very pretty young women with perfect skin and make-up, but in other cases it's irrelevant.</p>

<p>But my pictures tend to look like...Well, an amateur shooting with strobes. Here's what I consider the best (or most interesting) picture from my experiments.</p>

<p>What I like:<br /> Expression</p>

<p>What I don't like:<br /> Not enough DOF in the foreground. Kitten isn't quite in focus.<br /> Harsh shadows, and blown out highlights (I converted this color JPG to B&W)<br /> No catchlights in eyes<br /> Difficult crop ( funny how *small* a background can turn out to be. 1 pixel on either side and you see the wall or floor -- she had to kneel).</p>

<p>Basically, for this shot, she was kneeling about 3' from the backdrop. Behind and on her right side was the 285 on the ground firing into the backdrop. This was pretty much a non-light, and not at enough power it turns out. Otherwise, I've got the White Lighting bounced into the silver umbrella above and approx 45 degrees to her, in front. On her left side, out of the camera is the reflector. I triggered all this with my on-camera (d90) flash set to like 1/50th. (Finding out this is NOT a consistent way to trigger flash). Given my limited equipment, how would y'all suggest positioning lights differently? Thx!</p>

<p> </p>

[bill_clark___minnetonka_mi]

<p>Would (Could) this help you:</p>

<p>http://forum.montezucker.com/index.php?act=ST&f=8&t=9297&s=57324293d43528f4cf32c252c4ce22ac</p>

[mike_earussi1]

<p>1. She looks hunched over, have her sit on a stool next time.<br>

2. She's too close to the backdrop, it shouldn't be in focus. Use a wider aperture for a shallower dof, and if you still want the kitten in focus have her hold it up to her face.<br>

3. Crop much tighter, you only want her head and shoulders. And photograph her in profile with her head leaning into the kitten.<br>

4. Increase your lighting ratio for a more dramatic look.</p>

[RobertChura]

<p>If you look at some of my portraits I used a vivitar 283 and a bedsheet to create the lighting. An excellent portrait photographer (not that I am one) showed me how easy you can create studio type lighting with a flash, a bedsheet and a mirror. The main key is to use a large soft light source.<br>

I now use Novatrons because they are easier to use and see the results before I shoot.</p><div></div>

[nathan_stiles]

<p>"Increase your lighting ratio"? He's easily at a 4:1 in the posted picture, if not more. The highlight side is actually blown out. Part of the problem here is the exposure is wrong. You exposed for the shadow side, and blew out the highlight. If you are going to use a ratio that high, you need to expose for more of an average. She should have depper shadows on left of frame.</p>

<p>Also, you need a softer light source. Move the key closer to the subject, and I'd use the reflector to give it more of a wrap around transition by placing it on the side of the camera as the key, but more in front.</p>

[steve_king5]

<p>Thx all -- very helpful answers! Look forward to working on improving.</p>

[dawn_michaels]

<p>I think you should get a translucent shoot through 45" umbrella instead of the bouncing off the silver which provides harsher quality lighting in my opinion . You can try using a softbox too. When positioning the key light, turn on your modeling light so you can see where the light falls on her face and eyes. Position the light so the catch light falls anywhere between 10 or 1 o'clock position in her eyes. Try moving the key around the subject and see how the different position affects her face. Make sure you get the umbrella as close as possible (but out of camera view of course) to her face to give the best possible wrap around lighting aimed from a higher position at 45 degree. There's many lighting styles, rembrant, side lighting, broad lighting, etc. Get a light meter to measure the light so you can set your aperture. Try to use wider aperture so the background is blurred or out of focus. If the light is too strong and give s high aperture reading then lower the light output and measure until you get the wide sperture you want. If I were you I would not use the Vivitar. just experiment with just one light first then add a reflector as a fill on the opposite side to see what it does even before lighting hair or the background. I learn from studiolighting.net They have videos on there available to teach you everything. Check it out. ;) Good luck!</p>

[jkiffmeyer]

<p>First, either get a bigger backdrop or skip it and go with what you have. Limiting yourself to a small background area is just too limiting on your composition and positioning of the subject. Using this small backdrop, simply limit yourself to closer photos.</p>

<p>I agree with the umbrella suggestion, you can do wonders with one umbrella and a reflector. I shot this set up like the post above suggested, and used a sheet pan as a reflector... :) The background is just our living room at night, if you are far enough away and it is dark out you can get away with that.<br>

<img src="http://aminus3.s3.amazonaws.com/image/g0008/u00007348/i00430964/fcaed4e7ad51a7ff99f959c6d09343c3_large.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="1195" /></p>

<p>For the shot you were trying I would go with a natural setting, a favorite chair, couch, etc. Set up your lights where you need them in a setting that works for the subject. But I just don't think you can do that shot with a background that small...</p>

[rashedahmed]

<p>What you have is good to shoot portrait. Buy some books on shooting portraits.You can create the same photo with your folding reflector & the Sun in outdoor. </p>

[john_aceti]

<p>From taking that photo, these would be my first adjustments.<br>

Put her on a higher chair so her stomach flattens out<br>

Move her farther from the background ( this will darken and defocus backdrop)<br>

Move the main light much farther forward and a a little lower so the catch light will be within the iris of her eye and a bit closer to her than before but you will of course have to lower the intensity. Probably about 45 degrees off her left eye and about 30" higher.<br>

Use a white reflector to bounce a minimal amount of light up from below her chin<br>

Also another one just out of camera view about 90 degrees to her right. </p>

<p> </p>

[terry thomas photos]

<p>DON'T use umbrellas, use softboxes. With umbrellas half the light goes thru and half is reflected away. You are wasting your light energy.<br /><br />In an analogy it's like comparing shotguns to rifles. With a shotgun the energy spreads out everywhere. But with a rifle the energy goes to the target. A softbox will allow you to direct the light where you want it.<br>

<br />Ever see the set of a movie or TV news program? You will NEVER see an umbrella in use - only softboxes and "can" lights. The only time umbrellas are used is on a show when an actor is portraying a photographer. Then the props guy will use umbrellas because the great unwashed public *believes* that's what "real" photographers use.<br /><br />Lastly, don't buy a set of strobes that are mismatched in their power rating. For example "Oh it's just a hair light so I will buy a lower power unit." Wrong!!!! If you do you will not be able to see with your eyes what the camera will see. Also if you are out on location and one of your lights dies or gets broken or stolen then any of the remaining units can take it's place. (It's happened to me.)<br /><b>Signature URL deleted, not allowed on photo.net per the Terms of Use.</b>