Gelatin anti-halation layer on Efke films

[alessandro serrao]

<p>Is there a chemical process that allows to remove safely the gelatin anti-halation layer on the acetate side of Efke films?</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Do we know for certain that it is an anti-halation coating? Also, while it's been two or three years since I last used Efke films, I found no unusual residue on the reverse side after processing (120 R100). An ordinary pre-soak with moderate agitation poured out a bright aquamarine colored effluent, which may also have carried away such a gelatin layer, assuming one existed.</p>

<p>Rather than attempting to remove something physically, have you tried handling the film as carefully as possible during normal processing, per Efke's directions, and evaluating the condition of the dried negatives in printing?</p>

<p>At this point I'd be inclined to contact the manufacturer directly for specific information about this issue, to minimize the risk of yet another urban myth festering on the interwebs.</p>

[evan_goulet]

<p>I wonder if he is asking about removing the anti-halation layer prior to actually exposing the film in-camera? Maybe he's looking to get the old style halated glow.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>He's referring to an issue previously discussed in this earlier thread:</p>

<p><a href="00S5tr"><strong>Efke KB100 transparent sticky junk</strong> </a></p>

[alessandro serrao]

<p>Exactly Lex. The acetate-side gelatin layer I've found on all 35mm Efke films is for anti-curling the film and the anti-halation dye is dissolved in it, and it has been officially confirmed by Efke with an email.</p>

<p>This gelatin will not dissolve in a pre-developer water bath, only the dye will.<br /> Since I need to process Efke films as slides I need to remove that junk off the acetate because of clear problems projecting them.</p>

<p>I'm wondering how dr5chrome has come up with that problem.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Alessandro, before resorting to physical contact methods that might scratch the film base, you might try a couple other techniques.</p>

<p>During the pre-soak, did you try fairly aggressive or continuous agitation? I used continuous inversion agitation for one minute during a pre-soak. I wasn't trying to remove a gelatin layer because I never even noticed any gelatin layer. And I'm not even certain this layer is on the medium format version of R100.</p>

<p>Also, you might consider another developer (you mentioned T-Max developer in the previous discussion). Specifically, my best results from Efke R100 came from Neofin Blue. However, Rodinal or another acutance developer might provide comparable results. Again, I wasn't specifically trying to remove a gelatin layer because, frankly, I never noticed it. But perhaps the developer might be part of the reason for our different results.</p>

<p>I'm wondering whether Efke added this anti-curling gelatin layer since I last bought a batch. I do recall that my negatives curled quite a bit, altho' this wasn't a problem since I use ANR glass negative carriers.</p>

[alessandro serrao]

<p>Lex, for curiosity's sake I've processed a scrap of Efke KB100 (the 35mm version) with common paper developer and all common reversal chemistry: a fairly aggressive chemistry. Plus I've used triple strenght permanganate and sulfuric acid bleach and neither the emulsion nor this acetate side gelatin did dissolve: they're pretty tough.</p>

<p>I'm still wondering how dr5.com has come up with this problem.</p>

[waldemar_schmid]

<p>Hello,<br>

I am using the Efke as sheet film and there is also the gelatine layer, so I don't think its only for anti-curling. Perhaps for retouching? I do presoak before development, but some of the gelatine I think remains. The back feels sticky when wet and drying time is longer as with other films.<br>

Greetings Wldemar</p>

<p> </p>