daniel_kim7 Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 <p>Hello, I am looking into developing on my own. So could someone please help me with the materials that I would need to develop on my own? Here's what I know:</p> <p>Inversion tank with lid and reel<br> Dark bag<br> Developer, fixer<br> Thermometer, timer, graduate, tray</p> <p>Please elaborate on the list. And guess which lens I used to take the picture! Thanks in advance! Daniel.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markminard Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 <p>You'll need storage bottles for your chemistry; I also use Hypo-clearing agent to shorten the wash time + Photo-Flo to prevent spotting but these aren't mandatory.. Don't forget clothes pins to hang the film and have a relatively dust-free place to hang it. And of course scissors, archival negative pages, and a 3-ring binder for the pages. 68 degree F running water and I think you're all set. Have fun...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markminard Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 <p>p.s. Try to have more than one graduate - I use three: a 128 oz, 64 oz, and 32 oz. It's easier and faster to prepare ahead of time your working solution of hypo-clear and one-shot of flo in seperate graduates while your film is fixing, instead of having to constantly re-wash only one.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 <p>I use two graduates, a small one (45 ml) for measuring out developer concentrate (I use Rodinal) and a 600 ml one for the diluted dev. Other than that I use plastic jugs, of the type you can buy in any supermarket, for the stop and fixer. In both cases high accuracy isn't essential, I use Kodak Indicating Stop which is diluted 1+15, and Ilford Rapid/Hypam fixer which is diluted 1+4.<br> I reuse the stop and fixer, and keep them in old 2 litre plastic domestic bleach bottles. I put an adhesive label on the fixer stock and mark it for every film I fix to keep a check on usage (1 litre of Ilford Rapid Fixer at 1+4 will fix 24 films). I would recommend filtering the water to be used for film processing. I use an Ametek 10 micron filter.<br> I also recommend either Paterson Acuwet or Tetenal Mirasol wetting agent for the final rinse.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_wilson1 Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 <p>Just a few thoughts; before you buy beakers and containers, if you decide on your developer it's easier to just get the stuff you need to make up the mixes you prefer. For example, I always use HC110 and have various containers all set to mix and divide up the stock and working solutions. I also always keep the stock solution HC110 in commercial quality dark brown glass laboratory bottles. The other stuff stays in plastic. Also you might eventually want to consider an immersion heater so that you can prepare a water bath for your chemicals and keep them at a constant operating temp. My work area gets cold during the winter and especially when I work with TMAX(not to often), I might use a little higher temp for certain things so I set the heater at say 72F and let everything sit for a while, then go to work. I often leave everything in the bath as I work including the developing tank.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ulric_dahlgren Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 <p>Don't forget a bottle opener to pry the lid off your film canisters, I didn't see that mentioned above. I assume you have one and probably don't have to run out to the store, but then again, with all these twist off beer bottles it might be the one piece of hardware you're missing.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel_kim7 Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 <p>Thank you Mark, Christ, Dave, and Ulric. I have specified the chemicals and accessories that I would like to get on B&H, please check the list and tell me if anything (size of chemicals or equipments, etc) should be added or removed.Thanks in advance!<br> <strong>General Brand</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=107616&is=REG" >Small Changing Bag Double Zipper with Elastic Arm Holes (17x17")</a><br> <strong>Kodak</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=27743&is=REG" >HC-110 Developer (Liquid) for Black & White Film</a><br> <strong>Ilford</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=169348&is=REG" >Ilfostop Stop Bath (Liquid) for Black & White - 500ml</a><br> <strong>Ilford</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=253199&is=REG" >Rapid Fixer (Liquid)1 Liter</a><br> <strong>Kodak</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=27742&is=REG" >Hypo Clearing Agent - Makes 1.25 Gallon</a><br> <strong>Kodak</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=28195&is=REG" >Photo-Flo 200 Solution - 16 Oz.</a><br> <strong>Delta</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=101851&is=REG" >Mix-Up Cup (Set of 10)</a><br> <strong>Jobo</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=25382&is=REG" >2000ml Scaled Storage Bottle (White)</a> Three of this.<br> <strong>Jobo</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=25573&is=REG" >Black & White Standard Thermometer </a><br> <strong>Paterson</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=40303&is=REG" >Chemical Stirrer</a><br> <strong>Jobo</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=25602&is=REG" >Film Wiper</a><br> <strong>Yankee</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=63608&is=REG" >Filter Funnel (16-oz) with Fine-Mesh Stainless Steel Filter</a><br> <strong>General Brand</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=82590&is=REG" >120 Stainless Steel Reel</a> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=82590&is=REG"> </a><br> <strong>General Brand</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=82589&is=REG" >35mm Stainless Steel Reel</a> Two of this.<br> <strong>General Brand</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=111290&is=REG" >Stainless Steel Tank with Plastic Lid</a><br> <strong>Delta</strong> <!-- needs styling --> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=123163&is=REG" >Stainless Steel Film Clips (Pack of 10)</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_wilson1 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 <p>Sounds pretty nice. By the way those are my exact chemicals for many years now, they will serve you well! HC110 has much to offer, so versatile.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ulric_dahlgren Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 <p>Looks like a good start. For Developer I use D-76 (1:1 dilution) myself. Really just a personal preference with Tri-x film. It's a one shot dilution, which means use it once and discard. I just pour what I need from my full strength bottle, dilute 1:1, develop, and then toss. It's very easy to use and gives consistently good results. HC-110 is a much faster developer and therefore may be a little harder to control at first, but certainly not a bad choice. Also, D-76 is powder HC-110 is a syrup. The powder has to be mixed from the bag all at once to get a full strength solution. The syrup however can be diluted to working strength as needed, and the remaining HC-110 concentrate can be stored in its original bottle. Technique and desired effect will guide most chemical choices; overall your selections look good. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markminard Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 <p>Looks like rock and roll to me. Personally I would never use a film wiper; even the smallest bit of debris on that thing will leave a nasty scratch the length of your film. You'll think it's clean but it isn't. Just dunk your reel in and out of the flo several times and hang it with the taped edge at the bottom and a film clip weighing it down.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cynthia_cerda Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 <p>Perhaps I missed something but if Daniel is looking to print (on paper) in addition to developing negatives he's gonna need a paper developer. Dektol or something of the like... the stop and fix will be ok for both film / paper. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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