B&W negatives dull and blue casted

[burak_savak]

<p>HI,</p>

<p>I am a newbie, I just developed my second roll. They come out quite fine other than 2 things I noticed vs the rolls I developed at camera shop.<br>

My negatives are relative dull and they are more blueish.<br>

My environment:<br>

film: arista.edu 400 120<br>

developer: kodak d-76<br>

stop: kodak<br>

fixer: kodak rapid fixer<br>

wetting: kodak flo<br>

kodak hypo</p>

<p>Any idea why might this be happening?<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>-b.</p>

[ronald_moravec1]

<p>Blue may be the color of the base material. It may be blue from insufficient fix or old fix.</p>

<p>"dull" has no meaning other than not shiny and that may mean insufficient fix. If you mean they lack contrast, bevelope longer.</p>

[seandepuydt]

<p>burak, can you scan a negative so we can take a look?</p>

[burak_savak]

<p>HI, here is picture of 2 films they are the same brand but 120 is processe by me, 35mm processed by a lab.</p><div></div>

[burak_savak]

<p>Now I will post actual scans</p><div></div>

[burak_savak]

<p>another scan from the same roll<br>

<img id="smallDivTip" src="chrome://dictionarytip/skin/book.png" alt="" /></p><div></div>

[burak_savak]

<p>Reposting with a smaller size image to make it viewable inline</p>

<p>HI, here is picture of 2 films they are the same brand but 120 is processe by me, 35mm processed by a lab.</p><div></div>

[burak_savak]

<p>The fixer can be problem, because I had it for about 1.5 yrs ago (unopened bottle) When I try to mix it I noticed some residue left in the bottle. That might be weakening it.<br>

I already ordered a new one but, I also read, the fixer should still work from the other forums.<br>

Currently the time I use for fixer is about 3 1/2 to 4 mins.<br>

I know it is trial and error but from your experience, how much more time should I give it.</p>

<p><img id="smallDivTip" src="chrome://dictionarytip/skin/book.png" alt="" /></p>

[burak_savak]

<p>a 100% zoomed crop of the scan, if that helps</p><div></div>

[andrea_ingram2]

<p>These films may be the same brand but are made by different comapanies. The film with the blue base is Fomapan film - great stuff - and always looks like that after fixing.</p>

[ronald_moravec1]

<p>Andrea may be right, but to be sure cut the tail off the 120 and fix it at home.</p>

<p>The edges look fully fixed and the center is blue but you are a better judge if that is true.</p>

<p>Lack of sufficient agitation cause the edge to center variation or sometimes weak fix. </p>

[john_shriver]

<p>That blue may well be a tint in the plastic base of the film as an anti-halation feature. Or, it may be sensitizing dye that has not been fully processed out. You can certainly re-fix it for 5 more minutes, and then wash for 20-30 minutes. (Snip a bit of leader off so you can see if it made any difference.)<br>

The film looks developed enough. The shadows in the negative look rather thin. Fomapan speed ratings were known to be a bit "optimistic", perhaps try exposing at EI 200.</p>

 

[burak_savak]

<p>So, Andrea and Ronald, your take on this negatives and scans is:<br>

Blue base seems OK.<br>

Fixing seems to be OK.<br>

They look fine.<br>

Am I understanding correctly?</p>

[burak_savak]

<p>what is the side effect of longer than needed or too long fixing?</p>

[robert lee]

<p>Arista EDU is rebadged Fomapan. The film base itself is blue. Don't worry about it.</p>

<p>Fomapan is interesting in that it has relatively boosted red sensitivity. It can make for flattering portraits. Unfortunately, it's also very grainy and quality control was a problem the few times I used it.</p>

[brian_schall]

<p>As Robert said, Arista.edu Ultra is Foma film. The 120 version has a blue base, the 35mm and 4x5 has a clear base. I've used all versions and they all print fine. I developed my first roll of 120 in DiXactol, which is a yellow-brown tanning developer. Ended up with nice green negatives.</p>