burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>HI,</p> <p>I am a newbie, I just developed my second roll. They come out quite fine other than 2 things I noticed vs the rolls I developed at camera shop.<br> My negatives are relative dull and they are more blueish.<br> My environment:<br> film: arista.edu 400 120<br> developer: kodak d-76<br> stop: kodak<br> fixer: kodak rapid fixer<br> wetting: kodak flo<br> kodak hypo</p> <p>Any idea why might this be happening?<br> Regards,</p> <p>-b.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>Blue may be the color of the base material. It may be blue from insufficient fix or old fix.</p> <p>"dull" has no meaning other than not shiny and that may mean insufficient fix. If you mean they lack contrast, bevelope longer.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seandepuydt Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>burak, can you scan a negative so we can take a look?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>HI, here is picture of 2 films they are the same brand but 120 is processe by me, 35mm processed by a lab.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>Now I will post actual scans</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>another scan from the same roll<br> <img id="smallDivTip" src="chrome://dictionarytip/skin/book.png" alt="" /></p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>Reposting with a smaller size image to make it viewable inline</p> <p>HI, here is picture of 2 films they are the same brand but 120 is processe by me, 35mm processed by a lab.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>The fixer can be problem, because I had it for about 1.5 yrs ago (unopened bottle) When I try to mix it I noticed some residue left in the bottle. That might be weakening it.<br> I already ordered a new one but, I also read, the fixer should still work from the other forums.<br> Currently the time I use for fixer is about 3 1/2 to 4 mins.<br> I know it is trial and error but from your experience, how much more time should I give it.</p> <p><img id="smallDivTip" src="chrome://dictionarytip/skin/book.png" alt="" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>a 100% zoomed crop of the scan, if that helps</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrea_ingram2 Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>These films may be the same brand but are made by different comapanies. The film with the blue base is Fomapan film - great stuff - and always looks like that after fixing.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>Andrea may be right, but to be sure cut the tail off the 120 and fix it at home.</p> <p>The edges look fully fixed and the center is blue but you are a better judge if that is true.</p> <p>Lack of sufficient agitation cause the edge to center variation or sometimes weak fix. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>That blue may well be a tint in the plastic base of the film as an anti-halation feature. Or, it may be sensitizing dye that has not been fully processed out. You can certainly re-fix it for 5 more minutes, and then wash for 20-30 minutes. (Snip a bit of leader off so you can see if it made any difference.)<br> The film looks developed enough. The shadows in the negative look rather thin. Fomapan speed ratings were known to be a bit "optimistic", perhaps try exposing at EI 200.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>So, Andrea and Ronald, your take on this negatives and scans is:<br> Blue base seems OK.<br> Fixing seems to be OK.<br> They look fine.<br> Am I understanding correctly?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burak_savak Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>what is the side effect of longer than needed or too long fixing?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert lee Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 <p>Arista EDU is rebadged Fomapan. The film base itself is blue. Don't worry about it.</p> <p>Fomapan is interesting in that it has relatively boosted red sensitivity. It can make for flattering portraits. Unfortunately, it's also very grainy and quality control was a problem the few times I used it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_schall Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 <p>As Robert said, Arista.edu Ultra is Foma film. The 120 version has a blue base, the 35mm and 4x5 has a clear base. I've used all versions and they all print fine. I developed my first roll of 120 in DiXactol, which is a yellow-brown tanning developer. Ended up with nice green negatives.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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