Nikon FM vs. FM2(n) for use in extremely cold weather

[galileo42]

<p>Of course, wind chill doesn't concern things, only human skin. Towards the end of the film (34,35,36th. exposure...) you want to be extra cautious advancing the film because what might break also is the little sticker tape joining the end of the film to the original spool. If it does break, now you've got all your film on the receiving spool, with no way to rewind it back in the canister and to open the camera, except in a changing bag. I know, because it happened to me the other day. Not because of the cold, mind you, but because of an older roll I had handrolled myself with a loader, and I guess the piece of masking tape had gotten dry. Not funny. I suppose cold could do the same thing. I live in Canada, with some pretty cold temperatures during the winter months, and the only problem I ever had because of the cold was indeed static electricity with automatic cameras (F5, F6, F100, N90...) advancing and rewinding. Flashes all over the negs. Took me some time before figuring out what it was. But F3, FM2n, FM3A... never gave me any problems in the cold. Granted, I seldom had to be out shooting more than 3 to 4 hours at a time.</p>

[josephbraun]

<p>Actually many of the mechanical nikons do just fine in those conditions.  the fm2 is just the most logical choice because of the size and convenience of it.    </p>

[eb_lim]

<p>HI Epp,<br>

I have used the FM2 in cold weather, out here in the prairies of Western Canada you get used to -15 to -40 C in the winter. Before the FM2 I had my old F2 and Nikkormat FT in all kinds of winter weather, out hiking and ice fishing. Do not use the motor drive to advance film, make sure your have good gloves on and hand warmers.<br>

If it really gets cold you would likely give up shooting out doors way before  the camera does. The FM 2  will do a fine job for you.<br>

Eb</p>

[frank_revi]

<p>I read somewhere, National Geographic's article about climbing K2 I think (probably 25 years ago), that they had the lubrication *removed* from their FMs (which they used because of their light weight and all mechanical construction) lest it freeze and stop up the works.  I think the FM's gallium arsenide phosphide meter is supposed to be much better in the cold than the silicon photodiode (SPD) material that's used now and always has been in most cameras since CdS went out of style in the mid-late 70s; SPDs slow down appreciably in the cold.  My impression is that the GaAsPh was just a better material, but too expensive to justify.</p>

[epp_b]

<p>Frank, by "FM", do you refer specifically to the original FM, or are you including it's successors (FM2, FM3, etc.) with that term?</p>

[stephen_asprey2]

<p>I've done three Sydney to Hobart yacht races....one in 60-80kt winds. My FM2n and FE2 worked perfectly, still do and no camera, bar a Leica M, or maybe an Olympus OM1, handles as well.<br>

The actual issue you will have in very cold climate is the lube in the lens. Stick with solid metal AI/AIs classic lenses.</p>

 

[vorlandphotography]

<p>I live in North Dakota, where it gets REALLLY cold.  Never a problem with my FM2(n).  This camea was one of the mainstays of photojournalism for years. Besides, it remains the poor man's Leica.  Get one now while you still can.</p>

[epp_b]

<p>OK, then, I'm open to either the FM or FM2/FM2n.  It sounds like either one is solidly built and will function well in extreme conditions where most other models wouldn't.  The FM3 is much more than I want to spend right now.<br>

The main differences for me are:<br>

1) FM2 has two stops of extra shutter speed (can be worked around with ND filters)<br /> 2) FM2 has an extra stop of flash sync (can be worked around with ND filters)<br /> 3) FM accepts pre-AI lenses without modification.  I don't have any pre-AI lenses, but this leavesthe possibility open of buying some great old lenses for real cheap.<br>

Decisions, decisions...</p>

[luca_stramare2]

<p>You have plenty of AI cheap but good lenses to choose among, no need to worry. The extra shutter speed migt come useful when you want little DOF and you are shooting in bright light and the extra stop of flash sync is useful when you want fill in flash. Last but not least, the FM2 has a brighter wiewfinder and many spare parts are still available, including the focusing screen. Spare parts for the FM are no longer officially available.</p>

[epp_b]

<p>Oh, right!  Something I should have asked about: the viewfinder.  I have an n8008 and the viewfinder is magnificent next to that of my D40 (or any crop frame DSLR, for that matter).</p>

<p>If I am very happy with the n8008's viewfinder (which I am), what can I expect from the FM or FM2?</p>

[MichaelChang]

<p>Epp, just to add a bit of empirical experience, this shot was taken during an outing of several hours at -30C with a Nikon FM. The camrea is original from the early 80s, never serviced nor special precautions taken. It speaks to its ruggedness and reliability given my lack of diligence in taking anything beyond normal care. </p><div></div>

[luca_stramare2]

<p>I guess more or less the same, even if the last time I used an 8008 was 1997. The FM2 viewfinder is about half stop brighter than the FM. The FM3A wiefinder is as bright.</p>

[galileo42]

<p>Michael, - 30C and no gloves on metal? That's one tough photographer. Wish all cameras were that tough in the cold, right? :) But what about the Oly, which apparently was used in the same extreme conditions? How did it cope? I loved my OM2 and the Zuiko lenses, and regretted to have to part from it.</p>

[MichaelChang]

<p>Michel, we definitely had gloves, but too thick to handle the camera with so they were removed just for the short duration of a shot. Dressing in layers, tucking the camera in the coat when not in use, and frequent trips back to the car (to warm up) was also necessary.</p>

<p>As far as I know the Oly survived just fine. Like my comment about car radios above, I think some cameras might not be ruggedized, but will surely survive a great deal of neglect and abuse if used with common sense. </p>

<p>As you know, -30C is not particularly extreme if you live in (certain parts of) Canada. It's cold, but also a part of our psyche that it doesn't stop us from the outdoors like skating, photography etc. Just don't lick lamp posts and we'll be fine. :-)</p>

[frank_revi]

<p>In answer to your question about my post, I think at the time of the K2 expedition in question only the original FM was around. Only the original FM had the GaAsPh meter, so put that in the FM advantage column. Certainly FM2/FM2n are fine too; who knows, maybe they've fixed the SPD issue in the meantime. But I'd look into the lube thing; I seem to recall something specifically about the shutter needing to be de-lubed, but it's a long time ago.</p>

[epp_b]

<p>Thanks, Frank.</p>

<p>Is lacking 1/2k and 1/4k shutter speeds a real problem? Like I said, I can always pile on ND filters if need be, but am I going to ending up doing that a lot? Is 1/1k enough to freeze any action?</p>

[frank_revi]

<p>If you are doing high altitude stuff, where the air is so clear and thin and the sun is so bright and everything is white with clean snow, the faster shutter speeds could really come in handy. But those guys did real fine with original FMs; they surely show slow film, which should allow a good range of shutterspeed/fstop combinations even in those conditions.<br /> <br /> I predict that either camera model will not be the cause of a single compromised opportunity, and if your camera fails, it won't be becasue you picked one flabor of FM over another. Recommend to prioritize camera condition, then maybe price. If the situation is mission critical, you'd be real well off to buy a backup body rather than split hairs on distinguishing between the FM flavors.<br>

<br /> Quoting Mork: "Fly! be free!"</p>

[epp_b]

<p>Thanks a lot, Frank. I'm so accustomed to a lower limit of ISO 200 with my D40 (which makes very high shutter speeds necessary at times) that I'd forgotten about film speed! Most of these types of pictures will be done in winter during sunlight or overcast, and I plan to use ISO 50 or 100 film. Considering that, I guess a 1/1k maximum will be fine.<br>

I'll keep my eyes peeled for both of them and jump on whichever one is in good condition at a good price first.<br>

Thanks again!</p>

[jay_moynihan]

<p>I have and still on ocassion use FM/FM2/FM2N. Though not much in extreme conditions anymore.<br>

If i remember correctly (this is hazy memory for the 80's) the durability of the advance level was improved on the the FM2-etc. over the FM.<br>

I do though distinctly remember wanting, but never getting around to getting, a cool little battery holder they made for the FM-Series. One end on a cord screwed into the little battery compartment (held an AA i think) that you could cozy under your close to keep the body warm.</p>

[epp_b]

<p>Thanks for all the help everyone.</p>

<p>I got an FM in good shape (cosemetically and functionally) on eBay for a good price. It even included a Nikkor 50/1.8 lens, a bag and a few rolls of film.</p>