lovcom_photo Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Not really a question, but more of something I'm passing along. I use Clayton F76+ for all my B&W film development, and I really love that it shows the film as very fine in grain, and I love the grays that this developer "develops". Had an issue with an old unopened bottle with no expiration date...Clayton replaced it free no issues. For the past 20 rolls, I've been shooting with Freestyle's Arista Premium B&W ISO 100 & 400 which is rumored to be repackaged Kodak TMax, but they're not saying for sure. Regardless, this film absolutely wonderful, and at $1.89 per 36 exposure roll, the price is a best deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_clark___minnetonka_mi Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Thanks for the info. Nice to hear something positive. Have a nice holiday season! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I've settled on F76+ for Delta 3200. Works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry_m1 Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I buy all my Clayton chemicals at Freestyle Camera in Hollywood and have been for almost a decade. Love the stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert lee Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 "... I've been shooting with Freestyle's Arista Premium B&W ISO 100 & 400 which is rumored to be repackaged Kodak TMax ..." No, the 400ISO film is Tri-X. I don't generally shoot Kodak 100 ISO products so I'm not sure what the 100ISO Arista Premium film is. I assume you're shooting in 135. Tri-X certainly has a distinctive retro look in small format and printed to 8x10 or so. However, I find that the newer emulsions to be more generally usable. My personal favorite is 400 TMAX (TMY2) developed in Xtol 1:1. The combination is noticeably sharper, higher resolving, and gives smoother tonality than Tri-X in say, D-76 or HC-110 dilH. For 100ISO B&W, try Fuji Acros. 8x10 prints from 135 has zero grain. It out resolves the printer at this output size and gives laser like sharpness. Highlights sparkle in HC-110; mid-tones separate out especially nicely in Xtol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustys pics Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Glad to hear of your good experiences with Clayton F-76+ So far it works well with any film I've developed in, and it's my standard developer for 400 ISO and above. The Arista Premium is widely held to be Tri-X, which is still the standard for B&W film tonality and sharpness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penny_greenberg Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 I agree with you that I definitely like Clayton's developer more than the stuff I'm using now (Sprint) due to the fine grain. I can't wait to return back home to buy the Arista film! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony_murray Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 I realize this is an old thread but maybe someone can help. I regularly use F76+ to develop Tri X exposed at box speed. I want to try this for a two stop push (Tri X exposed at 1600). Does anyone have a recommended develop time for a 1+9 or 1+19 dilution? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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