Jump to content

HELP! Beginning Studio Light Kit for Dummies?


steph_ryan

Recommended Posts

I have decent equip but no expertise. I want advice on getting a cheap light kit that isn't garbage.

 

The background story is I take pics of my own kids and share online. We're involved at church and it's

non-profit Kid Center. I shared pics I took and now have been elected to take portraits this year. (We had a pro

last year but no budget this year!) B-ball went fine b/c I used natural light. But, in two weeks I'll be taking

individual portraits of preschoolers,

dancers & 13 class group shots. I know I lucked out with the weather for bball. I'm nervous I'll sink rather than

swim & disappoint parents for a milestone event. Due to the COLD weather & shooting in the church's dark

basement, I decided to fork up $300 for a light system. (I'll keep set up in basement w/backdrop afterwards.)

 

IMHO you don't charge until you can shoot manual and I'd like to wait until I have more insurance than PPA. My

plan was that I'll post the images for free on my password protected online galley and they can print wherever.

Now the church plans on printing at Walmart & marking up a bit for admin.

 

I don't want to waste the little money I have as I did in the past. Last year, I bought a used strobe umbrella

off Craigslist and it blows everything out. I gave up on but I'm sure if I had a light or flash meter or how to

use them, it might work. So, I need advice should I get continuous lighting set up for $150 off Adorama? Will

this do a group? Is the cool fluorescent just as good as reviewers on Amazon say? Or get hot ones for

portraits? Or should I go Strobe? If so, can I trust slaves to expose

correctly. How, attach to camera with sync cord?

 

I REALLY would appreciate anyone who took pity on me and told me what lighting system would be idiot proof.

 

I swear I know I'm not going about this the right way and I do want to improve someday. SOON. ( if you are

interested to see what a non-pro snaps, www.heirloomevent.com)

 

Thanks! Stevie

Canon 40D & Canon Rebel Xti

580EX II, & Light I never use Umbrella w/Crown AS-30M 120V & Vivitar 550 FD Flash

Slow Cheap Kit Lenses Sigma 28-70 2.8, Canon 75-300, 28-135 IS, 18-55, 50mm Prime 1.8

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do pop in occasionally but get lost in the jargon. I really want something that will work with the camera and I can just adjust the white balance. OR use continuous where I see what I get. I guess once I learn to shoot manual, it'll all click and I'll understand more.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't you just buy a 430EX and let it remotely trigger that? Put it on a stand with an umbrella & you are good to go. $200 buys you one. $400 buys you two. Seems simple to me. The camera should sense them and control everything for perfect exposure...RIGHT?

 

Thanks for being so upfront about your experience level. I checked out your stuff and it's decent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steph

 

There is no "magic bullet."

 

The problem is you are trying to move too fast.

 

Don't make assumptions too fast, a shoe flash will do perfectly fine.

You just need to get one that has manual controls, so YOU control it.

 

But since you only have a couple weeks, KISS (Keep It Simple)

 

For the individuals. ONE flash. Use your flash shooting into a 43" white umbrella with (or w/o) a poster board reflector to fill the opposite side of the face should do you fine.

 

Group shots will be a bit more tricky, but, if you have a WHITE wall behind you, aim the flash to the white wall, so the flash bounces off the wall. This will give you a nice BIG light source. Because the wall will diffuse the light, don't be afraid to use a higher ISO setting to get a good exposure. A big white bed sheet or shower curtain will work in place of the white wall, just may not reflect as much light.

 

With your digital camera, you can shoot and immediately see the results.

If you use your Cannon flash, read the camera manual for how to do exposure compensation. This is when the flash exposure is too light/dark, you can adjust it to be "correct."

 

If you really feel uncomfortable with a flash, then go with continuous. Cheapest way is to go to home depot and get a couple of tungsten work lights. I don't think you need halogen, as it would be too bright, hot, and will take a LOT of AC current. The only thing with continuous, unless you shoot it into an umbrella or through a diffuser, you will get harsh shadows.

 

I suggest you practice a LOT between now and the shoot. Use your family and friends to practice on.

 

BTW, to me, what is more difficult than the lights is how to pose people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Basically, you're setting yourself up to be a professional, replacing the professional your church says it can't afford to pay, and the church members who are going to be photographed have a reasonable expectation of getting reasonable photos for their money...

 

Advice 1. Go back to your re-hiring your professional

Advice 2. Forget about on camera flashguns and continuous lighting, neither of which is suitable for your purpose

Advice 3. Use the kit you already have and use your budget to learn how to use it.

Advice 4. Work your way through the various Lighting Themes archived in this forum http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00BjHh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"IMHO you don't charge until you can shoot manual"

Actually it takes quite a bit more than that.

 

"Last year, I bought a used strobe umbrella off Craigslist and it blows everything out."

I'm guessing it's your settings that "blow everything out".

 

"Canon 40D & Canon Rebel Xti 580EX II, & Light I never use Umbrella w/Crown AS-30M 120V & Vivitar 550 FD Flash Slow Cheap Kit Lenses Sigma 28-70 2.8, Canon 75-300, 28-135 IS, 18-55, 50mm Prime 1.8"

 

You have more equipment than you need already for these simple jobs. Maybe just a few accessories are in order.

 

Get a Canon 2' off camera cord to move the flash off the camera to the side. Get two light stands with umbrella mounts and umbrellas.

 

Shoot the 580 in manual mode. Start at 1/4 power. Set that used strobe to it'slowest power setting and fire it in optical slave mode.

 

I'll assume you won't be using a light meter and cannot borrow one. Set shutter 1/125. Set ISO 200 as a starting point. Use Apeture setting to control overall exposure (avoid blowing out). Also use ISO setting for exposure if needed.

 

This is very basic stuff and you have all the primary gear needed. You just need tolearn how to use it. Get some books on lighting.

 

Frankly, if your church is charging people for the shots, they should be prepared to pay a pro to get the shots (my 2 cents). But since you already committed to doing this, good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob is right on, learn to use your stuff. You are wasting your gear. But, if your question was how to idiot proof it and learn nothing, I stay by my answer of buying another EOS unreliable IR flash. But, I'm changing my answer from the 430EX to the 580 EX II. I was reading the strobist and some links & decided slave onlys are a waste of money.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, thanks for all the knowledgeable replies. I couldn't hope for more.

 

So I think the majority is saying buy a 2nd umbrella & stand. But, I don't get what I'm putting in it. The used strobe that I can't set and/or the Vivitar? Does that work as a slave? Do I just use trial & error on it's settings w/the 580 to get it right?

 

Gary N-If I put my 580EXii in there, how will I get it to fire w/out a master or transmitter?

Bob- I can't figure out how to set the strobe, there are no buttons other than a test & sync cord plug which of course, it didn't come with the cord.

 

Why am I skeptical that buying another flashgun is going to simplify it and all I have to do is put it on a stand. What do others think of JRs idea?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems to me that you're cherry picking the bits of advice that suit you want to hear and ignoring the advice that will actually get you producing a reasonable result.

 

You seem to want to buy more equipment, even though you already have equipment that you don't know how to use, and you haven't actually told us what that equipment consists of.

 

You seem to want to do it the hard way, with expensive and unreliable hotshoe flashes.

 

And you don't seem to be too keen to go on a course, read the material on this (and other sites) or buy a book.

 

I give up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, Garry. I'm sorry. I don't want to buy more stuff. I'm just dense. The truth is I have read tons on this site and others and it doesn't click for me. I read about posing and try it and I've got it. But I'm just not comprehending and retaining what I read on the equipment. I used to think I was somewhat intelligent. Let me clarify, I have read every manual I own and most twice. I've bought and frequently refer to cheat sheets. I have brought home tons of books from library & devoured. Thruthfully, due to time and home issues w/a sick kid, I've been unable to attend the two classes I enrolled often enough or finish the stack of books I've got. Seriously, any free time I have for the last 2 years is trolling online mainly this site but others too.

 

The way I see it is I may have the fever but my learning curve is fairly flat. I'm going to get it eventually but there are so many things. Now b/c others like what is only my best work. I'm backed into this corner to do this. I'm freaking out b/c I know I'm not consistent b/c I don't get the basics.

 

Please don't give up. I liked your answer but I didn't understand what you meant when you said

Advice 2. Forget about on camera flashguns and continuous lighting, neither of which is suitable for your purpose. Use the kit you already have and use your budget to learn how to use it.

 

The strobe I got for $20 doesn't have a manual & I just don't know exactly what you mean by my "kit" the body & lens and how I can take good portraits without anyother light source. Especially the group shots of moving kids. I want & VALUE your advice. I'm sure it's on point but I'd appreciate if you'd break it down more for me.

 

Now they wanted the pics on next Monday & I insisted that I needed more time. But, I'm still afraid I can't work FT, raise 2 kids, and learn everything I need to know. So, I guess I'm asking you not to give up but to give me the easiest solution and way out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Have you tried reading www.strobist.com?"

 

Allot of people on this forum must have writers cramp, because I see this answer allot.

 

If you don't have the time, then let it rest until you do is my advice. When you try to do too many things at the same time then none of those things works out. If this is what you really want to do then hire a babby sitter, otherwise let it rest until you find the time. It wont be the end of the world.

 

If you are not going to be shooting professionally, Alien bees has some semi-pro equipment that won't break the bank. You can get a three light set up for less than $800 which includes stands and umbrellas.

 

If you are thinking about a continuous lighting kit, keep in mind that these kits use Tungsten light that can get very hot. They are great for product photography but not so great for people photography.

 

You can purchase a Smith/Victor 3 light continuous light kit for less than $100 including bulbs. Just make sure you get the kind of lamps that screw on to the light stands instead of the ones with the clamps, it will save you allot of headaches. Other reasonable priced(non-continuous) beginner lighting kits are Novatron, Calumet Gemini, Wescott, JTL .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steph:

 

Not to be rude, but if you're still confused, you need to pass on this job. knowing how to set up, turn on and fire a strobe is a very basic operation. No one should need a manual for this. As you indicate, this all may not be intuitive for you.

 

We can't dump you 20 years of experience and knowledge in a few emails or posts. If you cannot get out of it, just put your 580 flash on your camera, point it up at the churches, basement ceiling, set everything to Auto "P" mode and ETTL and you will probably get pictures worthy of a church that is not willing to pay anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steph,

I agree with Bob. It may be best to let the job go. I can totally relate to the difficulty you are having understanding the technical part of photography. It does not come natural to me either. The creative part of photography is much easier for me and I have a feeling that's how it is with you as well. It will eventually all sink in. It just takes time.

 

Earlier this year I was asked to take photos of a military event (for free) and I told them I would do it but that I had no equipment whatsoever to shoot portraits of the guests. I took my backdrop and put the flash on my camera. They directed me to this small, dark corner of the room. Thankfully, I had a white ceiling. I took some test shots before the guests arrived. I was pleased with the results. So, my advice is to keep it simple. Oh, and one other thing. The backdrop should be pretty big if you're shooting groups. I had a backdrop perfect for 2-3 people but when the organizers wanted their picture taken, the backdrop became very small quickly. Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...