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What lens are you using to capture these shots? What is the widest aperture that your lens provides? If you want to avoid flash and higher ISO settings you need "fast glass", or lenses that offer wide apertures of f/2.8 or wider.
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Increase ISO and shoot RAW, you can fix some noise in post and if you make smaller prints it'll be ok.

 

Use fast lens or 2.8 zoom with stabilizer... and increase ISO. ;)

 

Try flash in manual mode. ISO 800, 1/30s, f4. It'll draw in ambient light but still freezes motion well enough.

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Get some fast prime lenses (f/1.8-f/2.8), use a tripod, use as high ISO as you can, shoot RAW, then use Noise Ninja or similar to recover from the noise in post production.

 

Available light theater photography is always challenging, but can reward you with some great pictures if you persevere.

 

<Chas>

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I have a 20D and also and have used it with the kit lens; EF-S 18 to 55 F3.5 to F5.6.

 

I assume this is your lens.

 

I do not think a tripod will be all that useful for people shots, but it might be for shots of things: although a tripod in a dark area, backstage is not the greatest idea, if people are milling around.

 

You can easily use the 20D at ISO1600, even `H` if necessary.

 

But the most relevant issue with the gear you have, is to use the kit lens at the wide end (18mm to 22mm) as much as possible.

 

This is because it will be at F3.5, and that will allow the fastest shutter speed possible.

 

And also whilst a wide view will not alleviate camera shake it will lessen the perception of it in the final product.

 

I suggest you first try `centre weighted average metering` and keep your key subjects in the middle of the frame: though not all that dramatic apropos composition, it will allow a quicker response when using manual mode (M), which I suggest you use, or practice and learn if you are not skilled with it.

 

Capture RAW.

 

Good post production technique is necessary, especially sharpening, and especially with this lens.

 

WW

 

FYI related information, also containing samples at F3.5:

 

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00PlCx

 

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00RJUs

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I have a Nikon 50mm f/1.4 and it is amazing in low light situations. I use it all the time inside with excellent results (and no flash). I shoot with a Nikon D80. I would say when you are able to add a lens, get one that can shoot fast like the other posters suggested. That is what someone here recommended to me and it has made all the difference in the world. It was $350 but worth every penny.
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The difference between a 50mm, f/1.4 and a 55mm (zoomed) f/5.6 is four stops of light. Under the same conditions at maximum aperture, Dana could shoot at 1/60 sec. shutter speed while Charlotte would be at 1/4 sec shutter speed. Hand holding at 1/4 sec. shutter speed will assuredly result in camera shake/blur.
James G. Dainis
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. . . and also if shooting at 1/4 sec; likely she will also capture Subject Movement (if the subjects are people).

 

Specifically for the Canon 20D we could consider an F1.8 lens, as the EF50mmF1.8MkII can be purchased quite cheaply.

 

Canon also has an F1.4 version of the 50mm lens too, but it is about the same price as the Nikon, mentioned above

 

WW

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