Backlit Portraits

[lindamccague]

I'm curious as to the proper technique for a backlit portrait. I have seen photographers able to take portraits in front of

windows to blow out the window to white and expose for the subject / fill the subject. I have tried this on several

occasions and get a huge amount of foggy flare. I use a lens shade, but it seems when the light is coming straight at

you the shade doesn't help much.

 

Can anyone give some thoughts on how to do this?

[ellis_vener_photography]

usually you need to light a white background. Not too bright on the background otherwise you get flare, just bright enough for it to read in the photo as a clean white ( like 245/245/245 ) white.

[picturesque]

It is basically keeping the difference between the shadow side of the face within about 4 stops of the window exposure, even though the window comes out a blank white. The lens shade does not factor in here.

[lindamccague]

Thanks! I have seen it done in front of windows, so I don't know how exactly they control how bright it is. About 4 stops is a good thing to know.

[tim_ludwig2]

Actually more like two stops is better. This range will reduce flare to a minimum by comparison and still give you pure white on film or sensor.

 

If you are doing this on a white paper background, You light the paper and measure that with a flash meter on reflected mode and then balance the face for two stops less measured with the incident dome. That method gives the accurate balance between the two surfaces.

[picturesque]

Okay--2 to 4 stops... :^). 4 stops is what I notice is kind of the limit before you get that foggy flare Linda describes. 2 stops is sometimes not enough if the window has "stuff' showing through it, to blank it out.

[brooks short]

How about using a spot meter or even your camera meter and a little Zone System tone placement. Place the window or background 2.5 or 3 stops into Zone 7.5 or 8 then light or fill your subject to fit that exposure.

 

It's helpful, if you're shooting digitally to make a Zone Ruler, using your camera and meter to see just where the threshhold for that non-textured highlight falls on your chip. Once you know the exact dynamic range of your chip, it's easy to place any tone anywhere on the tonal scale.

 

Here's an example where the window value was placed just above a textured Zone 7.5 without being over-exposed to the point of creating flare. Once that exposure was determined, it was easy to light the model and rest of the scene to that level of exposure.<div></div>

[bob_bill]

I think you want back window lighting that wraps around subject, not just side window lighting. McNally swears by silk sheets when working with windows. Makes a big, soft, diffused light. Tape it over window with gaffers tape. Expose for subject with spot metering. Can place off camera flash(s) outside shooting through window/sheet if need more light. Can use a reflector or softbox, umbrella from front for fill. Might want to consider white or pastel colors on model as Brooks did on the above wonderful shot. I think I get the effect your are seeking for head/shoulder shots by placing subject in front of an umbrella with diffuser cover on the open side (photek softlighter), hiding the stand and flash behind subjects head/torso and place gold/silver reflector from front area reflecting the umbrella light for modeling and fill.