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Help! 500c/m kit in case, I know nothing whats it worth?


matt_mitchell

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I am in a ´foreign´ country and I have found someone selling this that doesnt seem to know anything about it like

me! after buying a bargain contax IIIa which has started a new found love for black and white photography and

dust forming on my digital cameras, I have been looking around for more great finds.

 

I almost hate to just drop in here and ask but I tried to research but just became more confused because of the

wildy varying price. He is asking $1500 US total could it be a good buy?

 

It is a Hasselblad 500c/m in a case with the following items

 

lens :

Zeiss 150mm Sonnar CF 4T,

Zeiss 50mm distagon CS 4t,

Zeiss 80mm Planar CF 2.8T

 

other

Meter Prism Finder, Magnifying hood , extension tubes, lens shades, Multiprism lenses, Polarizing Filter

flashshoe ajustable, Flash gun bracket, pistol grip 500 cm y 2000 FC 45047, pistol grip 500elm cod 46221, Quick

- Focusing Handle 1 cod 40061, 40088, Attachment Hasselblad Exposure Meter cod 40266. Black Focusing Screen

Masks cod 42153. Rear protector cover cod 41041. HasselBlad Cases cod 58017 case 502, case 521 cod 58246,

 

everything looks in great condition, including the tan brief case it is packed in

 

He is asking $1500

 

Is this about right, any ball park figures for this equipment?.

 

Many thanks in advance<div>00QuSC-72131684.jpg.8c937385f3587a46929fb624d915cd5c.jpg</div>

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First, none of the lenses appears to be "CF." They are "C." The differences are subtle, but significant. As a rule, the "CF" are more desirable than the "C" lenses. I would say that $1,500.00 is not a great price, but is fare, none the less. Be prepared to add an additional 50% for the cost of a CLA for the lot.
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If you truly want the kit, give it a quick check first. The "C" lenses are getting a little long in the tooth, so

test each on the camera. Run each lens through all of the shutter speeds, paying close attention to the slower

shutter speeds. They should be even with no hesitation.

 

Test the camera with the lens and back removed. Be sure that the baffle doors open completely when the shutter

button is pressed, and then snap closed when the button is released. (The mirror will stay up until the camera is

wound for the next shot). You can't check the spacing in the film backs without running a roll of film through it

but you can feel if there is too much resistance when winding the advance crank. Also check to see that the back

can't be removed with the darkslide not in place.

 

When all else fails, use your best judgment. Keep in mind that these cameras are falling in value quicker than

Wall Street. You can probably get a good 500 cm with CF lenses, less all the other stuff, for about the same

price. (in the States)

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Yeah, I'd say $1,500 is pretty fair. Your most valuable pieces are the 50mm, prism finder with meter, body, 80mm, 150mm, backs, and hood, in roughly that order. Polaroid back is toast without film readily available anymore, and being so expensive. If they weren't the older C lenses (i.e. if they were black), they might be worth a little more. I'd use it though. The results should still be superb.
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The lenses 850. three backs 250, body 200, case 75, prism 75, rest 100.

That is what you would pay for average condition gear at evilbay.

This kit seems above average condition that is to your advantage.

Check all lenses carefully for cleaning marks or scratches on the glass.

If that is all right. It looks like a good deal. Use the fact that none of the lenses are from the later CF series to negotiate.

 

These lenses will give the same IQ as later CF lenses and will last forvever with a CLA every 3-5 years.

If you want to have the lenses and body fully serviced be prepared to pay 500-800 USD.

Only minus is the prism. Good as a prism, the metering part is not as good as later prisms.

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It's at least 35 years old, so it will probably need some repairs, such as light traaps to shutter work. Resale prices of Hasselblads have taken a huge hit. If you decide to sell some or all of the gear, you will need to be patient and don't expect to make much of a profit. Before the crash, which started about 6 or 7 years ago, you may have been able to sell everything above the $4000 mark, so unless you plan on using it you may wish to walk from the deal.
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It's not a steal. It's a fair price if you pay $1500 if all works perfectly. I would think you to get a little better deal on the lot honestly. I agree...check slow speeds on lenses. Check glass for cleaning marks and scratches. Check flash synchs on lenses, aperture preview, self timer. Make sure barn doors on the body are opening and closing properly. Pull out the magazine inserts and put them back in. Crank the mag to "1" and make sure it stops at the "1" and doesn't keep winding. The older magazine you turn backwards to get it to "1." Light seals are cheap....$10 or $15 each set. Parts are no longer made for C lenses so when the repair guys run out they'll be paper weights unless someone parts out an existing lens.
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for me it makes a great difference being able to check used equipment upfront. Even though some think it's not a great price, I'd say given the fact you can test it all (and you know how to do this) and provided everything works as intended, this is absolutely worth it.
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