Slides with Classics?

[arjun_mehra]

I wonder how many classic-camera–users shoot transparencies. This question is probably geared more toward those

whose classic cameras do not have through-the-lens metering, as lack of the technology is what I believe mainly

might keep such photographers away from slides. In general, slide film offers rather less latitude than print,

and it demands quite precise exposure-calculation from the photographer. As hand-held metering is both demanding

and sometimes impractical, those whose cameras are without this feature, I believe, may have reason to be

disinclined toward transparencies.

 

Additionally, many classic cameras — even when they were brand new — have rather more erratic, imprecise

shutter-speeds than more modern ones. For instance, not only might a particular example's 1/1000 actually be

1/850, but 1/850 might simply be an average speed, the range being from 1/770 to 1/920 (these numbers are simply

created for illustration). Another matter: older lenses, themselves, often are less than accurate in their

apertures, especially at smaller values. In the case of automatic Zeiss lenses for the Exakta, for instance,

many, when set to "manual" mode, just don't go down to f/22, stopping instead at about f/16.

 

All these things taken into consideration, I imagine transparencies might pose an unpleasant burden for those who

use classic equipment, and I wonder how many, for these reasons (or others), avoid the medium. On the other hand,

I suppose unnecessary burden is one of the things that appeal to many people who enjoy using older cameras...

[steve m smith]

On most of my older cameras, mainly the folding types, I think the fastest speed is a bit optimistic. 1/500 is usually closer to 1/300.<BR><BR>

I usually stick to 1/125 or 1/100 and this seems to work out o.k. with transparency film.<BR><BR>

It may well be that my metering technique has more variables than my shutter speeds!

[minhnguyen9113]

I shoot slide film with the old folders like Kodak 3a, 616 and Polaroid 110a... The results are interesting, and I love looking straight at the huge color slides by eyes.

[paulh]

I shoot slides in my 6x6 and 6x9 folders. I've even shot a few sheets of transparency on my '37 9x12cm

Zeh Zeca. Never had a problem that wasn't attributal to my own inabilities ;-)

[winfried_buechsenschuetz1]

I shoot slides with 35mm and 6x6/6x4.5 cameras. On some cameras I checked the shutter speeds and adjusted them as far as possible, but I have to say that most of the cameras I did NOT check just worked as well. Only exception was a Zeiss Ikonta with Prontor shutter where the 1/125 was far off specs.

 

Slide film has very little latitude but it depends what you call "correct exposure". You can meter the shadows, the high lights or the in-between zones - all these shots will be exposed "correctly" for these zones, and it depends on what you want to see on the pics. If you need shadow details a little overexposure does not harm, if you want detailed highlights a litte underexposure does the trick - even if it is unwillingly due to misadjustment of the shutter.

 

There is probably more trouble with built-in meters or automatic exposure systems, these sometimes need re-alignment to give proper values. Some of my cameras (the QL17-GIII and the Olympus SPn) are a bit off, I compensate this by setting film speed 1/3 step higher or lower.

[craig_supplee]

I only shoot slides or B&W with all my film cameras. I like the instant (almost) feedback I get from being able to view the tranny on a light table. I can't do this with color negs. Shooting slides also makes me slow down and think out the exposure I want (or should) be using to keep from blowing shots. At only 8-10 shots per roll on my MF cameras, this is a necessity.

[charles_stobbs3]

I used a Retina IIa with whatever the slowest Kodachrome was for years, make that decades, almost all without a meter. Now I'm getting lazy and also enjoy experimenting with some of the newer cameras form the 60's, 70's and 80's most of which have auto exposure. But I have an unmetered Leica and a Solinette which I try to use once in a while.

[randall ellis]

I expose transparency film in my wooden field cameras all the time. All you have to do to get good exposures is know the actual shutter speeds, and at least in my experience they don't vary as much as your example, or if they do, you might consider a different shutter or a CLA. I have sent each of my large format lenses off for a CLA at some point, and as well as having them checked out and knowing that they were in generally good working order, I also got a map of the actual speeds for each of the setting. At any given speed, the variances were all within 1/2 stop at the most - I get great exposures every time (so long as I don't mess up when metering, which does occasionally happen). A shutter speed tester is not a bad investment either, and it will allow you to tell how much variation you are getting. I get great 4x5 transparencies out of my old Alphax, Compur and Supermatic shutters all the time without any perceivable burden (other than the weight of the cameras)

 

- Randy

[h._p.]

I've always found that using an incident light meter solves most problems. If you're confident of your metering, it only takes one roll to decide whether your shutter markings are out or not. I just bought a new Seconic digital meter, to go with my unmetered cameras, so I get to use 'fifties kit with 21st century accuracy.

[robert_marvin]

I don't shoot slides, or any color, anymore, but in from the early '60s through the mid-'70s I shot lots of chromes with my Leica IIIa (Kodachrome II/25 & old C4 Fujichrome) and Rolleiflex 2.8E (Agfacolor CT 50 and Ektachrome).

[subbarayan_prasanna]

I shot most of my slides during the 1960s and 70s on Exakta VX IIB with hand held meters Weston Ranger 9 and Gossen Pilot. They came out equally well or better than the few I shot with a TTL meter on my Exakta RTL 1000. I think the overall judgment on lighting is more important than the way we meter the light. I also felt that after some time with the same camera you get to assess the picture on the viewfinder directly better, especially for slides. I have not made many slides of late.

[JDMvW]

I normally shoot color negative with the old darlings, most of which didn't have too consistent shutter speeds even when they were new.

 

However, just yesterday, I accidentally loaded my new "Leica" with Fujichrome, thinking it was Fujicolor. Aside from blasting a lot of them when I forgot to put the lens cap on for rewinding, the exposures were generally right on, even allowing for a healthy "Leica glow" from an internally dirty lens.<div></div>

[k5083]

YES. Randall and H.P. are right; the two things you need are to know exactly what your shutter speeds are and to have accurate metering. I test my shutter speeds electronically, then print a table of indicated and actual speeds on an index card, along with correction factors to get to standard exposure values, and I generally meter with a modern camera. I don't have exposure problems, and nothing rivals the punch of a slide.<div></div>

[tim_huggins]

I shoot trannies pretty much exclusively. Most of my selenium light meters are dead on, and I've recorded the compensation for those that aren't. The shutter speeds on my MF folders and 35mm rangefinders are right on, too. But I've learned to take that as a given when the lens says "Zuiko".

[arjun_mehra]

JDM, how did you "blast" some of your frames by rewinding with the lens cap off? Do you mean you fogged them? If so, isn't it your shutter-curtains' job, not your lens cap's, to prevent that?

 

I've never heard of "Leica glow" before, though, in that example, it looks terrifying.

[bobmcelroy]

I've shot Fuji and Kodak slide film with my folders and have been quite pleased with the results. I shot some

great pics with Fujichrome Provia 100 with my Agfa Isolette III with f3.5 Solinar lens and Ektachrome with my

Voitlander Bessa Ii 6x9 f3.5 Color Skopar. As Arjun Mehra pointed out though, the shutter speeds aren't always

dead-on, even after a good service and adjustment, so it helps to shoot some test rolls and use a good hand held

meter so you'll know what you will get when the film is processed. I tell you though, there is nothing prettier

than a 6x6 or a 6x9 transparency; the first roll of Ektachrome I shot with my Voigtlander blew me away, all I

could say was: "Wow!"<div></div>

[bobmcelroy]

Follow-up to my previous post. I shot the photo of the bridge on Kodak E100VS with my Agfa Isolette III with f3.5

Solinar lens. The next photo is from Voigtlander Bessa II 6x9 with f3.5 Skopar on Ektachrome 100G.

[bobmcelroy]

Ooops, messed up again and didn't post the photo, operator headspace and timing error!<div></div>

[pensacolaphoto]

I prefer to use slide film with SLR equiment that is not "classical".