Trip to Guatemala / Belize / Mexico

[martijn_houtman]

<p>

Hello guys and girls,

</p>

<p>

In a week I'll be doing a trip to the above-mentioned destinations: Guatemala, mostly Guatemala City and small towns around, Belize-city

and some towns along the coast-line and my trip will end in some beach area just below Cancun.

</p>

<p>

Being my first trip to Central America, I decided to buy a Lonely Planet and read about what the places have to offer and what kind of

culture these places have. I read that -- especially Guatemala -- is rather poor, over half the people live in poverty, and I read about the

direct link between poverty and crime quite a lot, varying from regular burglary to armed robbery and even tourist murders.

</p>

<p>

I keep reading about making sure not to stand out with your photography gear, as you will be an easy prey if you stand out of the crowd

like that. And not standing out of the crowd is not really an option: I'm a 2 metres (6'6") tall blond guy carrying a 28-70L lens. I am not the

scared person around, but I am quite worried what this will limit my ability to take pictures while walking down the streets, constantly being

afraid of being robbed.

</p>

<p>

What I am asking for is some soothing, comforting stories about your experiences in this region. Please tell me not to worry and that I can

just walk around happily with my camera, taking pictures of the people and surroundings there, without being banged on the head, waking

up later noticing my bag being lighter than usual.

</p>

<p>

Obviously I am also very interested in stories, pictures and recommended places to visit!

</p>

<p>

Kind regards, Martijn.

</p>

[bruce_margolis]

Of the locations you mentioned, Guatemala is the riskiest but you will stand out anyway because of your height. Not sure exactly where you are going in Mexico but generally, the area between Belize and Cancun is pretty tourist friendly.

 

Personally, I have never had a problem and I carry a fair amount of gear. Obviously you have to use common sense but I have been known to travel off the beaten path. Actually it was my wife who wanted to go into the non-tourist area of Belieze, not the safest area but I wouldn't have gone down any of the side streets/alleys by myself.

 

If you are really concerned about safety, stick with tourist groups. Or if you are worried about your camera gear, just take a P&S. Constantly worrying about your safety sure can take the fun out of a vacation.

[stemked]

I love the region. I have been to Belize three times and Western Guatemala (Tikal) once. Belize City, the former capital and city with the largest population, is said to be rough (noted by the State Department in the mid-1990s) and I would take that to mean that you need to be careful. However, I have been to many countries around the world and I have found the people of Belize UNMATCHED in their openness and kindness. I traveled twice with my 60 year old mother and once with a bunch of college students for a spring-break tour. What I love about Belize is that random people, strangers (not for long), will just sit down with you and have meaningful conversations with visitors about their country, good and bad. When I travel in Belize I don't feel like a tourist, rather like a visitor. I have traveled much of Northern Belize from sea to the border with Guatemala seeing many of the Mayan temples (hard to call them ruins as so many are in such great shape), coral reefs,and nature parks. Beautiful place, lovely lovely people.

 

My experience in Guatemala is more limited. I went with a group to Tikal in 1990. At the time there were military people all over the place and there were warnings about armed rebels, but it seemed to be exaggerated as I kept an ear open over about news reports over the years and there were very few. There was a tourist attack on a Volcano several years ago (I can't recall exactly when) but that is the most I know about. Tikal is a place that is unbelievable. I love the way part of the city is cleared and part is not, lots of wildlife in a mystical setting. If you can find it Rough Guide did a great show on the area many years ago. The guy who is featured was our guide and he was fantastic.

 

 

If you really are concerned I'd check with the US State Department about travel recommendations and restrictions.

[stemked]

I will add that I was carrying plenty of camera equipment on all three trips to the area.No problems at all.

[robertshults]

Well, Martijn, I lived in Guatemala for two years in the late nineties (though it is worth pointing out up front that things have changed

considerably since then), much of that time assisting / apprenticing to a major photojournalist.

 

If you have a look at her Guatemala portfolio (http://bmcaphoto.com/), you will see that much of that time was spent out and about, on

the streets of some moderately out of the way places, and usually with an arsenal of F5s, Nikkor lenses of all stripes, flashes, tripods,

and backpacks. All without incident.

 

Of course, Barbara had the advantage of working, insured, under the auspices of a major US publication, but there are several other

factors that, I believe, contributed to her success:

 

First, is knowing the place you are exploring. I mean really knowing it, and this means, above all, knowing the language. If you do not

already know Spanish (and keep in mind that almost 70% of Guatemalans speak another mother language), perhaps you should

consider making Antigua your first stop. There is an immense number of language schools there, where you can learn Spanish in a

couple of weeks, sometimes while living with a local family to get a handle on some cultural norms.

 

Know the language, and genuinely interact with people before you break out the camera. First of all, you will have more photographic

success (rather than adding to the din of fetishized, postcard shots of Maya women in huipiles). But, most importantly, you will get a

local sense of where and when it is safe to go exploring with your camera (children are great resources for this information).

 

In general, you want to avoid outskirts (even of tourist areas), dense jungle (take a pocketable point and shoot if you plan to climb

volcanos or explore the rainforest; highly developed areas like Tikal are generally okay), or unpoliced urban areas (think Zones 3, 8, and

parts of Zones 1 and 13 in Guatemala City).

 

Shooting in Central America is, unfortunately, not risk-free, but you can dramatically minimize that risk by investing yourself in the

people and the land. Godspeed.

[Jerry_]

The wife and I won a cruise, and the Belize City part was a bit 'rough' for the one or two block area where the cruise ship let you 'enter' the city. Once through the 'you need a guide' and 'you need a taxi' crowd, the city itself (in the daylight hours) seemed safe enough. We wandered about with a couple of camera bags and never felt worried.

 

 

 

Just keep alert.

[lahuasteca]

Hi, some background - my wife is from Antigua Guatemala, and I have done ethnographic photography in the

Guatemalan highlands since the 1970's. During the time period 2000-2003, I traveled a lot, carry two Nikon MF cameras,

lenses, etc. via chicken buses and pickup trucks in the western highlands. Since 2003 there has been a major change,

a general deterioration of public safety, fueled by rising sporadic and random mara (gang) activity. They mainly target

the locals and the chicken buses, and not the tourist. My brother-in-law, in specific, has advised me not to come and do

my usual traveling around backcountry loaded with Nikon cameras.

 

Having just said all that, I think you'll be fine sticking to the main tourist trails (Antigua, Lake Atitlan, Chichicastenago,

Tikal) traveling by mini-van with a professional driver (lots of agencies in Antigua). The more esoteric stuff, like the more

remote villages, becomes a little more iffy. Gang activity has spilled out from Guatemala City into the rural areas. The

dept. of Quiche in many areas is starting to look with suspicion on outsiders with cameras. Avoid taking photographs of

children.

[martijn_houtman]

<p>

Thanks guys, for all your answers and stories. Generally your stories confirm what I read: It's OK in the somewhat more

touristy places, but you are warned for visiting the outskirts.

</p>

<p>

@Douglas: Funny that you mention the openness of the people around there. This is what I hear a lot. The only place

where I really felt the people are genuinely interested in me was in Cambodia and some parts of Thailand (the less

touristy, obviously).

</p>

<p>

@Robert: unfortunately I will not be having enough time to do some serious culture study. My Spanish is poor, let alone

Mayan languages. For me, this is a sort of introduction trip (first time lower America), so I will have to do with the general

impression :-)

</p>

<p>

@Gene: Do you know what happened to rise this crime activity? Is it an increasing poverty or governmental instability?

</p>

<p>

If I am able to take some good pictures and won't be robbed (heh.) I will post some pictures here. Thanks again!

</p>

[mohir_ali]

I worked for several months in Puerto San Jose, Guatemala (south coast, not touristic) a few years ago, it was safe. The food was safe. The people are friendly. I had a car, the roads were safe. I (we) drove to Pacaya volcano and climbed it carrying a Hassy and Leica gear, it was safe. Our at-site-aquired 'volunteer escort' packed a pistol. I don't remember how much we tipped him. I (we) spent time in Antigua, do NOT miss this place, it was safe. I (we) drove to Lake Atitlan, it was safe. I (we) drove to Tikal in eastern Guatemala, do NOT miss this place, it was safe. I (we) drove around Guate, it was safe...get the message? ;^)

[martijn_houtman]

So, what you mean to say is, it is safe, right? Thanks! :-)

[jose_luis_morales]

hi guys and girl, this is jose from Madrid, Spain, and like Martijn im traveling to Guatemala, Belize and all the way up to Cancun.

First, thanks to everybody for your help and all the info you gave us. im going for 3 weeks, from the end of september to october 12 and i was wondering which is places in Belize you liked the most, or you d recommend me to go.

 

thanks a lot and muchas gracias

[arie_vandervelden1]

Yucatan and Belize are generally pretty mellow. You're fine walking down the street during the daytime. In Mexico,

Cancun and Playa are crass and overdeveloped, Tulum is nicer. I really liked the border town of Chetumal. Belize is

awesome, do not miss Caye Caulker. It's really nice in the interior as well. We liked Punta Gorda. The local buses

are fun, lots of schoolkids hopping on and off, and the driver blasts reggae music though the sound system. Belize

City is a bit rough, but there's no real reason to walk around in the outskirts at night anyways.<P>

 

Guatemala is a bit of a different story, be alert and watch your back. My wife and I went on a sunrise tour to Tikal

with a local guide we had met on the street in El Remate. When we got home a few months later we found out that

a group got robbed a few days before we were there. In Antigua there is a ton of tourist police, pretty much on every

corner, and they are there for a good reason. I'd avoid Guatemala City if you can, and if you must transfer between

bus stations do take a taxi, even if it's only half a dozen blocks. We really liked San Pedro in the highlands.

Spanish classes here are cheaper in San Pedro compared to Antigua. I also recommend Livingston, and stay at

Finca Tatin if you can, funky place in the jungle.<P>

One more thing, Lonely Planet Central America is riddled with errors, and prices were way out of date (2007

edition).<P>

 

Guatemala:

<IMG SRC="http://photos.photosig.com/photos/61/86/2048661-ade01527d2751a29.jpg"><P>

 

Belize, please excuse the barrel distortion:

<IMG SRC="http://photos.photosig.com/photos/12/46/2014612-ffd76da1b917f740.jpg">