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Handhold for birding


john_g10

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Here is a shot I just got in my backyard handheld at 420mm, 1/60 sec, f/5.6. I took 15 shots this one seemed a little sharper than the others. I feel lucky to have captured a small House Finch this sharp handheld at 1/60 second. If I had 50 years experiance I would still feel lucky. I guess I just dont think high enough of myself to get sharp images any time I like at low speeds.<div>00QGDO-59153584.jpg.3ae46052c899648c67311689da966bbf.jpg</div>
derek-thornton.artistwebsites.com
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I will get back with info some people asked for and in meantime thanks for comments. I am on small pocket size computer (need microscope to see the keyboard) and now enjoying wonderful light on the shore before hurricane Dolly will make some changes in the landscape.

 

But I will try to put a couple of examples of low light and low shutter speed photos as requested. Personally I believe that very often those condition allow only so called ‘record’ shots, but, I have to admit, I do take them very often for my own records. Even that they are sharp light is not usually too interesting.

 

First Barred Owl. I think I had to kiss a lot of frogs as I took about 20 shots at 1/30 to 1/60 sec and all of then were the same. Here is one. Three more in this folder (not sure about posting links here if tat will fly):

http://www.pbase.com/mbb/chapell_hill_042107

 

Scroll to the bottom and you will see that they were taken after sundown together with some silhouettes against the sky.<div>00QGFJ-59163584.jpg.a19e3af19b577b269bccfb1c7a9c1df1.jpg</div>

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Here maybe is an exception as reflected light after sundown were interesting on that evening. 1/100 sec. Again about dozen photos taken and they were all sharp like this one but I like this pose the best. As I copied from net and resized already compressed files they might not show the best quality. Forgot to add that both photos are taken in standing position without any support: Canon 20D +500mm f4 + 1.4XTC.

I will be back with more answers in day or two. Best, Mark<div>00QGFL-59163684.jpg.a3c02cfa3dc6737dd6bf9dc1135f35e5.jpg</div>

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Damn! Just about the time I've talked myself out of getting the 500 somebody shows up with incredible shots like these... and hand held with a tx.

Mark, thanks for sharing more great shots and the info. If Dolly gets you airborne try maneuvering toward the Southern California coast; it's the place covered by fog.

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Hellow Mark, First of all I would congratulate you for that kind of amazing work.

 

I don't know that what secret is behind this, but I know there is a secret.

 

I wish you would share with us, how do you manage and haw did you got this kind of fine sturdyness...?

 

How did you started, and how you improoved your abilities...?

 

Thanks and regards.

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Mark, thanks for your compliments on my puffin shots (sorry for not seeing that part of your response before). They are a far cry from your quality, of course, though I was quite pleased that they were all within one hour's work at the Machias Seal Island. If and when you visit, I suggest booking for at least two sessions (two mornings).

 

By the way, can your share your favorite place for bird shots?

 

Mary

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I enjoyed this lively discussion and wanted to say, in response to the original poster, that hand-held shots of birds do appear possible even for the relative DSLR neophyte such as myself. However, I spend a lot of time looking through binoculars and think I don't shake too much (except when I over do the coffee). For example, the following image of an incubating Gray-headed Junco is razor-sharp full size, and I took it at 1/20 sec f/10 with a Rebel XTi and a 300 mm F/4 IS L. The IS was in mode 1, and I was playing with stopping down for more DOF after taking a nice sharp one at f/4. I took this exact shot at f/10 1/20 sec several times in a burst and I trashed the blurry ones. That seems to be an important thing that many of the contributors here ignored: at these shutter speeds most of what you get is probably going to be crap except that one nice crispy one that pops out. So shoot a bunch in these conditions...<div>00QJ0k-59963584.jpg.926cae4e4e8366a92fa03a3f279c97d7.jpg</div>
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Again, sorry for so late reply. Now I have a quite a few to work on.

<P>

Lets start with most busy poster. :) and one who really shown stubbornness that made me smile many times (in a

positive way). I spent recently a lot of time gathering information on innovation process in birds as it is one

of my favorite subject when collecting data and photographs in the field. Granted, neophobia is a large factor in

slowing down evolution of developing new behaviors. (In psychology, neophobia is defined as the persistent and

abnormal fear of anything new. In its milder form, it can manifest as the willingness to try new things or break

from routine.)

<P>

@ D.F.

<I>There is a science to shooting? Just aim the camera and shoot.</I>

 

<P>That is a reason for so many snapshots flooding the net. From that point of view there is no science to

anything. Anybody can do anything and life is very easy and full of fun. Nothing is wrong with this approach as

it is approved by masses and works for all except a few.

<P>

<I>Personally I will have fun with or without the camera.</I>

<P>Sure, but it is different between a fun and a passion. Satisfaction can add to fun a lot as well.

<P>

<I>One way or the other, he is not getting 100% keeper rate. Nor is any other photographer in the world.</I>

<P>

Same rule apply to tripod users. Again ‘keeper’ should mean more than just sharpness.

<P>

<I>I really believe that luck plays a bigger role than skill. No matter how skilled you are you will come home

with some ugly blured shots.</I>

<P>

Tell that to the poor recruits at the boot camp. After a year or so some will be in the top condition, most in

better then average. I often wish (no kidding) to have more blurred images when back home – this will cut my time

when checking. Also, blur is often a motion blur, some call it artistic :).

<P>

<I> I still believe luck plays a bigger part in capturing the moment. The most important issue here is equipment.

Canon or Nkon, Canon probally still has better equipment for birding. So the bigger your wallet is the better off

you are. A 600mm f/4 lens is much better than the 300 f/4 that the majority of us use. Equipment has nothing to

do with skill or luck, just the size of your wallet. Where skill comes into play is

on chosing a location (Being in the right place at the right time). And, how to operate your equipment. Yes,

handholding is a part of operating. But, getting tack sharp images of birds at slow speeds is complete luck……. To

capture a bird, tack sharp, in low light at slow speeds is pure luck. There is no amount of skill involved with

that. </I>

<P>

Unfortunately too many people adopted excuse that if they cannot do it somebody who does will do it by pure luck.

I am sure it works well for psyche to keep a spirit up so we might call it useful even that false.

<P>

Not a size of wallet but a priority often makes the difference. Everybody can drive cheaper car, wear cheaper

clothes, avoid expensive restaurants etc. and easy afford a 500 or 600mm f4 lens. Sure if one will use it for an

hour each month or less sacrifice might not be worth it.

<P>

Also knowing what you are doing can help a lot. Several species of birds that I observe all the time I also study

at home. I have copies of everything important that was published about those species, their biology, ecology,

behavior etc. This helps also to know instantly in the field if you see something interesting or new.

<P>

<I> All of these photos that Mark has shared with us look like they were taken at 1/500 or faster speeds. Anyone

can get sharp images at those speeds</I>

<P>

Really? Even a small child or grand grandma? :)

<P>

@ Lannie. Photo you are asking was taken with 400mm. For last several years I am using almost exclusively Canon

500mm f4 IS with 1.4X TC on 20D and lately on 40D. Sometimes I also use 100-400, 400 f5.6, 100mm and 17-40. At

that moment I am a couple of years behind with my photos. Website was not updated for even more (shame) and a few

recent photos are on pbase. No telling when I will be able to catch up as I prefer to be in the field and not in

the front of the comp.

<P>

@Steve. I already listed the equipment. Routinely I shoot at 400 ISO, sometimes at 800 or 1600(dusk, heavy

clouds, rain etc.). When concentrating on one subject (like skimmers) I prefer to shoot in a manual mode so no

surprises with exposing whites or blacks. I am only using one center point autofocus in continuous mode. When

using automatic light readings my thumb is on a wheel all the time as you have to change compensation very often

in reaction to changing backgrounds, subjects etc. I do not recommend that for any novice in a important

situation as it has to be done almost automatically, no time for ‘thinking’ and that can only comes with a long

practice to make fast decision how to react in the specific situation.

<P>

Skimmers come and go (like all feathered critters) following food. Eye level is always possible – question is how

much sacrifices you can made. If one is in need for a divorce a few (maybe in same cases only one) times of

coming back straight from the field when shooting at eye-level should make a trick.

<P>

And 500mm f4 IS is the best thing money can buy. You should get it.

<P>

@Mary, Tom, John – thanks again for your kind words. Mary I do not have any ‘favorite’ location. I try to avoid

heavy visited public places and follow my favorite birds as they showing up. I often spend days with one species,

sometimes with one bird and less people around the better – none is the best.

<P>

Now a few more examples and thoughts. Let’s finish with low light – slow shutter speed. Some more owls as an

example. Great Horned Owls with fledgling. Taken quite recently so still are on my comp. And again I will have to

keep splitting this post to show examples. In this folder you will find examples of documentary (record) shots

showing allopreening. (http://www.pbase.com/mbb/great_horned_owl_april_2008__allopreening) All taken in very low

shutter speed before sunrise, ISO 1600. First example here at 1/30 sec. Note that when fledging moved its foot a

lot of ‘artistic’ burr was showing.<div>00QJbk-60167584.jpg.7b10b23dc9a50539a63a88869dcd2824.jpg</div>

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And to finish low light subject here is my record so far. 1/8 sec. Not going even to try to repeat this one.

At the end of my reply I want one more time stressed out that sharpness is not the only concern when shooting. I personally believe that correct exposure is much more important. And a few more examples for those who have a problem with tripod or handholding decision.

<P>

Some benefits of handholding:

<li>lowest possible angle

<li> faster reaction time

<li> possibility to shoot objects flying right above you

<li> better mobility and better access in dense vegetation, water etc

<li> less stress on subjects when getting close.<div>00QJbr-60167884.jpg.03238f25127886f662e7cfb3f0f47fb7.jpg</div>

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And just a few extra thoughts and examples.

Masked Duck – entering their element (water) allows not only close approach to this rare and elusive species but also helps to use a right angle to show the bird.<div>00QJbx-60169584.jpg.0b068ae2eab15db579bd3ff23a349497.jpg</div>

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Daniel recommended to take very long series of the same subject. Small advice. Again similar to experience with automatic guns. It is very unwise to keep trigger pressed and unload the whole magazine in a few seconds (buffer in camera). Short 2-3 shoots bursts work much better and allow to not only keep ‘refreshing’ autofocus but also are helping to save ‘ammunition’ when needed is something else interesting happen. Works with longer events as well. Here for over twenty minutes I was recording famous Osprey’s ‘sky-dance’ (’fish-display’). Keeping shooting in short bursts gave me a guaranty for not running out of the buffer.<div>00QJcV-60171584.jpg.2e7fe4f14c1f03809171b19362c30b3e.jpg</div>
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