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Pentax or Tamron 18-250MM owners


revolver

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Christopher, I was asking what modes you were shooting in because, if in Av, then you likely didn't have auto ISO turned on. Looks like that was your problem, right? Remember that the slowest shutter speed you should use is approximately 1/(FL/4), where FL is the focal length. You might be able to pull off something better, but that's an easy to remember (and calculate in your head!) starting point.
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If you'd like a new fast-aperture autofocus Pentax 50mm f/1.4 portrait type low light lens, the fine FA 50mm is discontinued and is disappearing fast. I believe Adoorama still has one in stock.

 

Otherwise, the also excellent Pentax "F" or "FA" 50mm f/1.7 (same optics, slightly different body) may be found used at reasoable price on ebay.

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Chris, I have the Pentax F 50mm 1:1.7 and it is my favorite lens. If you're looking for a good lens that's reasonably priced, I think you will find you'd be very happy with that lens. I bought mine used and haven't been a bit sorry. I used it to take my son's graduation pictures, if you'd like to see some examples of what it can do. They can be found here:http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00P5u6.

 

I don't know how long I'll be waiting for my lens. They said it was on order and they expected it "any day". I hope it's not a long wait...

 

Lisa

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White balance: I generally find AWB works OK for outdoor shots, however indoors I generally need to use the Flash or Tungsten-specific settings. If you have fluorescent lighting, you might try each of the fluorescent settings but since the colors of these vary so much, this is the situation I am most likely to apply custom/manual white balance if I have the time.

 

Shooting RAW allows for lossless WB correction during post-processing, though even when shooting RAW I prefer to have the settings right in-camera so that images look roughly correct on the LCD for review.

 

Also note that higher ISO will also likely improve your flash shots as you'll gather additional ambient light and your the limited power from the flash will be used to greater effect. Note that on K100D the Auto ISO is disabled (design flaw) when applying exposure compensation so use with care.

 

Bear in mind that the Auto ISO range can be customized--I usually set this from 200-800 on a 6-megapixel body but with a slower lens you might want 200-1600 instead.

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Mis,

 

"then you likely didn't have auto ISO turned on. Looks like that was your problem, right?"

 

Correct

 

 

Mike, Lisa,

 

the Old manual1.1 50MM Pentax lens from my K1000 is a real nice lens to use on the K100 I see no need for buying another other than for it being autofocus...I like to turn a dial once ina while...lol

 

 

Lisa, I remember seeing those shots. you Son looks like a real Ham!

 

Got it Andrew

 

thanks all

 

 

this weekend should be sunny so I hope to get out with the new lens

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  • 3 weeks later...

According to Misere, "This lens should work in the same way the kit lens does, only it has an extra 195mm of focal length coverage. It is a DA

lens and will transmit full EXIF data to your camera. It's widest aperture is f/3.5-6.3, meaning it will be f/3.5 at 18mm, and from there change all

the way to f/6.3 at 250mm (although it probably hits that aperture closer to 200mm)."<br><br>

 

In fact, with the K20D these lenses operate only at the following rather limited aperture ranges (given a set FL):<br>

F range / Pentax DA 18-250 ED AL (IF) / Kit DA 18-55 AL II:<code><br>

3.5-22 18-18 18-21<br>

4.0-29 23-35 20-32<br>

4.5-32 38-65 35-42<br>

5.6-40 70-155 47-55<br>

6.2-45 170-200<br>

6.3-45 220-250<br>

</code><br>

So, yes, there is a light(!) tradeoff for the great flexibility.<br>

May a fast prime be with you, too - Or a DA* when living in London, with cats and dogs.<br>

Second, AF cycles are slower over the whole range but do not stop as loud at the far end.<br><br>

Maybe Pentax saved you all the $0.02 I spent right now.

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