hank_skinner Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 I was reading the TMAX 400 - 2TMY literature and Kodak recommends Kodak RapidFixer. I've used Kodafix with it and it took about 7 minutes to completely clearthe film. <p/>My question to you guys: What's your opinion of Kodak'srecommendation? <p/>And have any of you had problems with Kodafix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Kodafix is an ambiguous product. It's an ammonium thiosulfate fixer, not a sodium thiosulfate fixer. Rapid fixers are made with ammonium thiosulfate. But Kodak doesn't consider Kodafix a rapid fixer. Since Kodak doesn't deign to publish online data sheets on their fixers, there isn't much explanation. But, I've processed Ilford Delta films and Kodak T-MAX films in Kodafix, and it never needed 7 minutes to clear. Maybe 3 minutes when it was old, about 90 seconds when fresh. You didn't possibly mix it at the paper (half) strength? Best buy for B&W film fixing is Kodak Flexicolor fixer, from their C-41 processing chemicals. Dirt cheap since it's in a high-volume price-competitive marketplace. It's a rapid fixer like any other, the requirements for color film are really more stringent if anything. That's what I'm buying when I use up my current supply of Kodafix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Kahn Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Seven minutes is well within Kodak's recommended time frame for Kodafix with this film (5 - 10 minutes), so that should be no problem. I use Rapid Fixer and I usually have to extend the fixing time to clear the negatives, even with fresh fixer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Glad to hear that someone else is using Kodak Flexicolor Fixer for B&W films. I've been using the stuff for a good couple of years. It is dirt cheap, works really fast, and lasts a long time. If you think about it, it makes sense. Color films need to have all silver removed after the dyes are formed. That puts a bigger load on the fixer than B&W materials. Papers are even less demanding than film, so you can dilute the recommended working strength to 1/2 and still have a very potent fixer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hank_skinner Posted June 1, 2008 Author Share Posted June 1, 2008 Thanks guys. Flexicolor fixer ...hmmmm.<p/>BTW, I mixed a fresh batch of Kodafix @ 1:3 for the above example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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