jim_francis Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Folks, I have been looking to transition from my three trusty F-4s shooting XP-2. My D-2X is a great camera, but for black and white I have been going back to the film cameras. Either my technique is wanting, or the tonal range is just not there, especially for challenging subjects like weddings. Anyway, I was reading a review of the Active D-Lighting system for the D-3 and wonder if there is not hope for digital black and white. Anyone have any experience in this area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_mcghee Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 hopefuly this thread from Patrick Lavoie may help. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00NNJ6 gary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jb17kx Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 The D3 is the God of B&W. I recommend you send at least one of your F4s to me at once for secure disposal and 'recycling'. :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frans_waterlander Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 If you can't get great b&w images with your D-2X then the D3 isn't going to solve your problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 I tke D3 files and convert them to "black and White" regularly. An intelligent use of conversion techniques in either Lightroom or photoshop CS3 makes for very fine images. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_ Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Or you could look into a Nikon D80 body and see if that might work for what you want in B+W images first. The D3 and the D80 seem to "share" the same software in-camera that allows you to go "B+W" in camera, or taking a color image and getting the B+W image stored on the memory card. Just bear in mind, once you capture a image in B+W, getting back to a color .jpg file is not going to make your day. The D3 (and the D80) have the capability to 'edit' a color image into a few types of B+W image....leaving the original color image untouched for later use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tholte Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Like Frans says, I don't think a D3 is your answer. You may want to take digital b&w workshop (Santa Fe or Maine) from a pro that knows what he/she is doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photo5 Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 Here are some black and white conversions I've done. There are also some color ones as well for comparison. These were all shot in color with a D80 and converted to black and white in photoshop. http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/3339423_c3dKP/1/186057634_P2A5t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinblake Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 I don't believe any digital camera has the tonal range of a good B&W film. Unless you start playing around with multiple exposure HDR you are always going to be dissapointed by the tonal range of digital when you compare it to film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilkka_nissila Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 I think the D3 is great for black and white images. However, I often want some "grit" in my black and white stuff hence Delta 100 developed in dr5 (120 format). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fhovie Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Yep - gotta agree - for B&W there is no place like film - It has grain (it is supposed to be there) It is sharp (because of the grain) CCD and CMOS sensors do not record colors the same way B&W film does - of course maybe some clever feller will (or has) made software to simulate grain and color profile - but then there is printing: Nothing like silver fiber based paper. Not that thin plastic stuff but the kind of print that makes my long gone grandpa look like he was photographed yesterday even though the print is over 100 years old. yep - The Hasselblad and the Tachihara stay - along with the darkroom - the D300 is just for color - and shooting those fast moving grandkids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frans_waterlander Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 It apparently couldn't be avoided; this thread has been highjacked by the film vs. digital crowd and as such has become meaningless. You film folks like film and silver based prints; fine, good for you, but refrain from these non-sensical comments and let us digital affecionados discuss our preferences in peace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinblake Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Seeing as the OP was comparing Film and Digital it would seem logical that there be some comments comparing the two within the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ty_mickan Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I regularly shoot film on my F4 or F5 and I also convert to b&w from my D3. I love the conversions and when I know in advance that I'm going black and white, I crank up the ISO to 12 800 or 25 600 which gives me a real film like grain. I love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ty_mickan Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Here is a shot I prepared earlier.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 As a lifetime lover of b&w film, I will re-hijack this thread... Yup, it is absolutely possible to do very good conversions from digital. It's all in the editing. It's not easy, but neither is traditional b&w darkroom processing and printing. Different techniques, that's all. One reason I still enjoy using an older copy of Jasc Paint Shop Pro 7 is for the "Clarify" tool. It emulates rather well the characteristic often referred to as "micro-contrast" by b&w wonks. While useful on color as well, it's especially good as a final tweak after basic tonal adjustments following a color-to-monochrome conversion. Applied delicately, it gently separates midtones without affecting highlights or shadows. Applied a bit more vigorously, it digs detail a bit deeper out of shadows and tames highlights. Applied heavily, especially when run more than once, it creates that "halo" or "glow" effect of a photo that has been either clumsily dodged and burned, or deliberately subjected to such manipulation for artistic effect. I've used this one tool several times to offer an alternative tweak to several photo critiques where people were unsure about the quality of their digital b&w conversions. Invariably they say the effect is closer to what they wanted. It's not the camera. It works just as well with my older Olympus P&S digicam as with my D2H as with my color slide and negative scans. You don't need another camera to do this. Just the right editing tools and practice with the technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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