Folding Paper for book construction

[aria_tudanger]

I am currently in the process of putting together a book of my inkjet images. I

am printing on an Epson 9800 printer, on Epson Premium Photo Lustre Paper. I am

almost finished printing and am preparing to fold the pages in half (every print

actually consists of two pages on one sheet). I have already sprayed the images

to protect them. I have been told to watch for cracking in the images. I am

nervous about how to deal with cracking. Does anyone have any recommendations as

to how to avoid cracking. I noticed that in another discussion, someone

suggested creasing the pages first. Im not sure I understand what that means,

since creasing is a give in in the process of folding the pages in two.

 

I really appreciate any recommendations someone might have,

Thanks,

Aria

[tina_mojzer]

You may want to try scoring the paper, I think that's probably what someone meant by creasing. This is when you put a cut halfway through the back side of the paper. It can be difficult if the paper isn't very thick but will help make a clean fold.

 

 

Make sure to use a new blade (Xacto or Utility blade) with very light pressure and a ruler that is preferably clamped down.

 

Once you've scored the paper, flip the paper over and place a thin metal ruler where you've scored the paper and slowly start folding the paper going about 15 degrees at a time creasing it with your hand against the paper.

 

 

Hope that helps!

[elias_roustom]

Best not to score with a blade - that's permanent damage to the sheet that will eventually

lead to a break. The best way to do it is a letterpress crease with a steel rule and a counter

matrix. In the likely absence of a press, your best bet is to use a "Bone Folder". You'll need

to point, but not quite sharpen the end of the bone (very fine grit sand paper), and then

use it as Tina describes (instead of the knife blade). Experiment first. I do this sort of thing

for a living, and I always test my technique before ruining a good print. You can always

dampen (from the back of) the sheet just before folding, if the creasing alone isn't

preventing the cracking. Search the web on bookbinding technique, and look here for the

right tools: http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/product_listing.cfm?

ClientID=15&CategoryFullID=134

[bstinshoff]

I used to dabble a bit with card models where scoring was necessary. My scoring tool or choise - because I'm too cheap to by a specific tool - was a dried up ball point pen.

[bstinshoff]

BTW, whatever technique you use, I'd test on a few blank pages first before starting with your actual book.

[oxide blu]

I did that once. Used a clean blank sheet of paper and a medium point ballpoint pen. I laid the blank paper over the finished work where I wanted the crease, put the straight edge in place over the blank paper, and ran the ballpoint pen back and forth a few times over the blank paper. It made a compressed groove in the finished below the blank paper that allowed for a perfect fold and crease.

 

It also works with single-weight RC silver prints. :)

[joseph_wisniewski]

It's too late now if you've already done the printing, but for my own double sided books, I use a double sided paper, typically Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Duo 276.

 

I actually prefer the look of a single sided book, and will often do those with something like Hahnemuhle William Turner, Torchon, and even Photo Rag 460, or Arches Infinity. Do it with glassine or archival vellum slip pages if you want an especially elegant look.

[charedan]

I use an old dull pizza cutter, and make 3 creases, 1 at the page edge (when folded) on the

visible side and one very close on each side of the first but on the opposite side of the

page (side that is invisible when folded). This type of fold (square fold) as less tendency to

cut through because it gives you two 90degree folds side by side instead of one

180degree fold. This type of fold is often seen on cardboard boxes

 

Try it on a blank page first to see if you like the result on your type of paper. Some papers

are more resistant to cracking and don't require this type of fold.