Interested in trying 120 film...need some advice

[bob_camarena]

Loading 120 film onto a reel for processing is a bit different than 35mm, so be sure to practice with a scrap roll of film. Due to the wider width, it is susceptible to small fingernail-shaped creases that will ruin the frame so one needs to be particularly careful to not "crinkle" the film while loading.

[Mike Gammill]

When new the Yashica TLR's were a good value. The later Yashicamat G (w/120 & 220 capability) can sometimes go for almost as much as some of the Rolleicord Rolleis. The focusing screen on the Yashicamats won't be as bright as most 35mm SLR's. Never looked through a Rolleicord/Rolliflex so I couldn't comment on screen brightness. If you go for a Mamiya 645 you may find one with a split screen easier to focus. I have an RB67 and find it relatively easy to focus. Don't rule out the 6x7 format, tho, because you can make 8x10's with almost no cropping. Best thing, tho, if you like contact sheets, even the 6x4.5 format of the M645 still makes a very usuable contact image. 6x7 contacts are even more impressive. Check the medium format forum for even more suggestions.

[alex macphee]

As always, the regulars on this forum have given a terrific range of stonking good advice, and all of it from sound experience.

 

I have a Yashica-12, one of the range of Yashica TLRs, and it's excellent. The meter has gone (something has perished in the battery chamber), so I just use an external meter, which I would anyway. I'm also a great advocate of folders, and echo the good words about the Zeiss Nettars, Ikontas, and Agfa Isolettes. One of the things I love about using 120 on a folder is the whole ritual of it. I know the end result is supposed to be what it's all about, but I just love the whole thing of opening the camera back, tearing the film from its pack, loading it into the supply chamber, teasing out the leader and fitting it in to the take-up reel, winding on, closing the door, then watching through the red window for the tell-tale broad arrows and dots that lead to the first frame. The whole idea of 'taking the time' seems to rub off on the photo-taking process itself.

 

I don't particularly consider it a disadvantage that there are fewer frames on a rollfilm. With an MF camera, I'm not looking to fire off a range of shots at 3fps ; if I want that, I'd use a digital or high-end SLR. What I love about rollfilm is that it give me back contemplative time, a vanishing commodity in a world where value seems predicated these days on the instantaneity of the moment.

[patrick j dempsey]

To backup what Russ was saying... I always bring both a fully mechanical medium format camera and a metered 35mm camera. If you load the same speed film you will be able to easily use the 35mm camera as your light meter as well as to pop off random shots. With only 16, 12 or 8 exposures per roll, at a cost similar to 36 exposures of 35mm film, 120 film requires a measure of conservation and patience. By-the-by, if you shoot color, the cost for prints and scans at a pro lab is just about the same as a roll of 35mm film, so consider that as an alternative!

[bkpix]

120 is a ball compared to 35. You can get into medium format really cheaply right now. Scan prices at KEH.com for an idea.

 

RB67 is a good choice if you're serious, but check that your enlarger can handle 6x7cm negs. If not, look at Mamiya TLRs and Pentax 645. The Mamiya TLR is a cheap and wonderful studio camera, the Pentax is great in the field.

[Mike Gammill]

Forgot to mention Mamiya TLR. Good value and interchangeable lenses are available. Stick with the standard waist level finder as the porrofinder (prism) is not as bright. I base my experience with the Mamiya C-33. We had the standard 80mm lens and the 180mm telephoto.

[silverscape]

Wow! I never expected so much feedback! Thanks, guys! I definitely have some hunting to do now!

[richard_beisigl]

Chris,

I second Mikes choice of the Mamiya C-330 TLR.

I bought mine brand new many years ago, and used it for wedding photography, as well as just general pictures, and it works great.

The only drawback is, it will not work with a polaroid back like the other Mamiya cameras do.

Also, most of the cameras mentioned here, also take 220 film; this just means instead of 12 exposures, you get 24 exposures.

[the celt 2]

I got turned o to the world of 120 film when I was in the Air Force in the 70's. I was all about the 35mm thing untill I saw my first "grainless" 11x14 print from a lowly Graphlex XL. I started doing a bunch of research (pre web), and settled on the rb-67, and haven't looked back since. I agree with others in saying to practice loading the film for procesing, as the thinner base is seceptable to the half moon handling marks, put theability to go up to 16x20, or bigger is well worth it. The Graphlex is actually a pretty decent (and rugged) 129 RF, but the only ones I've seen on the bay have been totaly beat, or really expensive. I also have a really beautiful old Zeiss Ikon Super 530/16 RF that I use for traveling. It fits nicely into a coat pocket, or my shoulder bag, and I love the look it's uncoated lens gives to my photos. I try to stick with PXP rated at 125, and develop in D-76 1:1. I am going to load up the Zeiss with TXP for a trip to Boston, just to play around a bit.

[jack_welsh]

Chris, if you're still looking, or want an ideal for a second camera later. The Yashica and Mamiya TLR's are great cameras. So is the Mamiya RB67. Another camera that I like,it can take 6x7 & 6x9, is the Mamiya Universal. It can also take Polaroid with the Polaroid back. Your enlarger might not handle those negative sizes, though. To me, loading a stainless steel reel for developing is easier that a plastic reel.