Infrared options

[matt_fravert]

Okay....So forgive me because the last time I bought infrared film, I bought

the Kodak HIE (Which I still have a roll left), and the EIR. Now I find out

that they no longer make either. I then tried my second choice, Konica

IR.....they no longer make it either. SO, I looked at what is made for the

infrared sect, and its not much. I know Maco/Rollei make one and so does Efke

too. I bought a #87 filter, so that at least is still use-able. My actual

question for everyone is; What is still out there that is, or is close to, true

infrared film? Preferably 35mm. And not to go too off topic, an someone breifly

explain the anti-halation backing thing?

 

Thanks in advance!

[william_goldstein]

Efke IR 820 is the same exact formula as the Macophot 820IR.

Ilford SFX 200 has extended red sensitivity.

Rollei IR is similar to Ilford SFX.

Rollei Cube 400iso also has an extended IR sensitivity.

 

Thats it.

 

Efke IR 820 is probably the best.

 

I have also gotten good results from Ilford SFX.

 

I didn't care much for either of Rollei's film because there is a blue layer that doesn't go away. When I emailed them about this blue layer they told me that I was using the wrong developer. I then simply decided I was using the wrong film instead.

 

Efke 820IR and Ilford SFX, in my experience, develop clear.

[luke_ballard]

Well,

 

I have been shooting IR extensivly latley, pretty much all I have been shooting because I am working on a 20 piece gallery project in IR.

 

I have shot about 10 rolls of Ilford SFX200 with a Hoya 72r, it has an extended range to 740nm, it is not bad film at all. I got some nice Wood Effect, but I didn't like the grain so much, but with practice it will impress you and you can fix the grain issues with development and also how you expose it.

 

I have been shooting Rollei IR400 latley a lot, probably at least 25 rolls of it in the last 2 months and its a great film, its range is up to about 820nm which makes it a True IR film as does Efke IR820 which its range is up to 850nm.

 

About the blue layer that William spoke of, that is because not enough of a pre-rinse was used. A quote from the data sheet on EkfeIR820

" Prewashing/presoaking MACO IR 820c has a clear base and a water-soluble anti-halation(AH) backing. In order to remove this backing, for higher actual speed,and for more uniform development, it is recommended to presoak films for 30 s in tap water prior to development. Agitation should not be excessive (Invert once every 2,5 to 3 s.), and use water at approximately the same temperature as that intended for subsequent processing steps. Note: Having resolved the water-soluble AH backing, the wash water will be deep blue when poured out of the tank. This is normal"

 

 

As far as a film having the lack of an Anit-Haliation backing which it just makes it feel a bit different from your regular film you are use to using. That layer just prevents flare from the light comming thourhg the lens and reflecting off the back of the cameras plate and comming back and exposing the film, but I have NEVER had a problem with that. Pre-rinse that film also for 30sec and it will remove the dark tint on the film and won't cause any staining. It is a wonderful film if you pre-rinse it until it comes clear and use d-76 or ID11, pretty much same stuff. I have got WONDERFUL results with it. Rollei's fact sheet on Rollei IR400 recommends a 30sec pre-saok also and you will see a dark black liqued come out after the pre-soak, this will prevent any staining.

 

HIE was the stuff! But you can't find it anymore unless you are buying from someone who has a stock of it.

 

My suggestions are to try Rollei IR400, with a developer like D-76, rodinal, Diafine. SFX200 with D-76, Rodinal, or Microphen, and Ekfe IR820 with D-76, Rodinal, or Microphen. You might want to try the Hoya 72r filter also, I have gotten best resluts with it. Don't worry about the antihaliation backing, or the blue tint, I have processed over 20 rolls of Rolleii Ir400 and NEVER got that blue tint, just pre-rinse it!

 

Usually a lot of people will have a problem with a tint forming on the film by not pre-rinsing enough. It is perfectly ok to pre-rinse it. There are only a couple of films that reccommend no pre-rinse, but they are setup to not have that sensitizing dye or antihaliation cause problems with staining the film during processing. If you need some more specific advice as to IR shooting, email me and I will be happy to help you with all the knowledge I have gathered latley. It wasn't long ago that I had no idea about shootin IR, but I have done a TON of reading and shooting now and have gotten pretty good at it.

 

Good Luck ok!

[the world in black white]

Here is a link to examples of the current IR films, except for Kodak HIE, which is of course no longer available. http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/product_tests/infrared_film_005.php

[matt_fravert]

So I see that most of these IR films that are left say to use a #72 filter. I have a relatively high Tiffen #87. Will there be any problems with using this lens with say the Efke or the Rollei?

 

Thanks

[jim malone]

Matt:

 

You can use the Tiffen #87 filter - but your results will be different from those using the #72 filter. Both filters block light below about 550 nm (green) but they have different characteristics for red and near infrared light. That's why each company says "testing is required".

 

In my case, using a #72 filter, I rate Efke 820 at ISO25 and process it like TMax in HC110. There are many different combinations that will give very good results, so that's where the fun comes in. Plan on burning a couple of rolls on a sunny day to determine what look you like from your prints.

 

Good luck and have fun.

[peter_fitzsimons]

Is their a chart online which shows where the various filters cut off visible light and also a chart showing how much IR light the different films can record?

 

Peter

[jim malone]

Try this site: http://www.beyondvisible.com/BV3-filter.html.

[Fotohuis RoVo]

Rollei IR 820/400 (iso 400) should be used with a Hoya 72R (720nm), #88A (715nm) or the #89B (695nm) infra red filters.

715nm cut off means 50% transmission light on that point.

 

The Rollei IR820/400 film is made by Gevaert in Belgium. Up from 750nm the film is going down fast in sensitivity. Iso 12-25 with above filters.

 

Maco IR 820C (iso 100) was an extended sensitized Efke 100 emulsion till 820nm. Iso 1-3 with above filters.

Efke has a more or less same IR production film now: Efke IR820.

 

Efke and Rollei IR films are available in 35mm, 120 roll film and sheet film.

[linda_zukas]

Everyone is so generous with their information and thoughts,as an infra-red enthusiast- onlooker to Matts questions, Thank You!

I have shot Black and white IR for 25 years and still know so little about the films and chemistry. I was completely dismayed at Kodak HIE being discontinued, I had no idea others had infra-red film, Heres my questons:

1.Do the other films mentioned, Macro, Rollei, Efke,-offer Black and White?

2. I have only used Kodak BW IR with a #25a filter,in blaring southwest desert sun, and although I enjoy the ethereal graininess effect- (for lack of a better description,) I am interested in toning my photos down a bit, not having them so extreme. Which film would suit my style best, & which red filter should I start my experimenting?

3.Years ago there was nothing to read about infra-red film. Would someone reccomend a good basic Black and white IR reference-guide?

Thanks so Much! Linda Zukas

[wieslaw1]

1. The antihalation coating on some IR films can be removed

either by presoaking in water prior to developing, or during

developing. I have done it both ways with Maco IR and have not

marked any difference. The only difference might be that your

water after presoaking turns blue/green, while the Microdol

developer is not affected.

 

2. Here is an example of a picture taken on a =wrong= Rollei

IR-extended film with the HW filter 092, late afternoon.

 

3. Congratulations on all your =wonderful= IR images. Keep the

style!<div></div>