Question about Rolleiflex Planar 3.5

[bernie_.]

I find a Rolleiflex Planar 3.5 with selenium meter in very good cosmetic shape. The seller wants for the

camera 400 euros and it comes with case, strap, hood with case, UV filter with case, Rolleikin and macro

lens with case. Everything in very good shape.

 

The problem is that the selenium meter is not really accurate and the slow shutter speeds don't work

properly. Some speeds don't work and shutter stay always open. The camera needs a serious CLA and it

will cost me 100 euros aprox.

 

I have a Yashica Mat 124G. And my question is: Is it worth the Rolleiflex in this working condition for that

price? Will I really notice differences between the Mat?

 

Thank you very much in advance.

 

Bernie

[ronald_moravec1]

Once you experience German lenses, you will see why.

 

Yashica Mats were one of the trashiest cameras I ever had although it worked perfectly.

 

If you do your own work the differences are great. If Walmart does it, do not bother with upgradeing the Yashica.

[robert_marvin]

The Planar is a better lens than the Tessar-type lens on the Yashica, but you'll probably not notice the difference unless you use your camera on a tripod. However the Rollei is much better made and more reliable than a YashicaMat and, with CLAs every 10--20 years, could last you for a lifetime. I use a Rolleiflex 2.8E for most of my work. I bought it used in 1962.

[derek_stanton2]

It's possible that the meter cannot be simply "calibrated," or repaired, and that it may need

to be completely replaced. That would be a cost in addition to the usual CLA, assuming the

repair person can get the necessary parts. You should weigh that potential factor when

assessing the value of the 3.5.

[derek_stanton2]

Oh, yeah - take a look at this thread:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Ovdt

 

I'm certain the Rolleiflex is the better-made camera, but the Yashica's lens is already quite

capable. I've seen some fantastic images made with the 124G. I don't blame you for wanting

a Rolleiflex, but you can do fantastic work with the camera you have.

[richard_fateman]

The selenium cell will no longer respond linearly, and so the meter cannot be "repaired" to be accurate. Replacing the selenium cell with a new one is probably not practical, but even so would not be a great idea: Even if it were fully operational it would be inaccurate (averaging) and clumsy mechanically; even the least expensive hand-held modern meter would be better.

 

The camera, after a CLA, should otherwise be very nice, if possibly overpriced. Maybe consider asking the seller to pay for a CLA?

[sergio_ortega7]

Those built-in selenium reflective meters on the old 3.5 Rolleis were not very useful, even

when new. Even if you could get it repaired, a basic handheld incident meter would be

much more accurate and useful for general photography.

 

You're lucky all the accessories are included in the sale price. 400 euros would normally

be a bit steep for just the camera alone in that condition. However, many of these Rollei

accessories are very hard to find and can be quite expensive, so the price seems

reasonable. Original Rollei hoods in good shape can cost a bundle, if you can find one.

Does it have the original metal, hinged Rollei lens cap? If so, guard it with your life...these

things are impossible to find.

 

Original leather cases and Rollei bay filters and close-up attachments are also quite

difficult to find these days. Make sure the leather case is not mouldy (does it smell?).

Don't store your camera in a mouldy leather case, it can damage the lens.

 

By any chance....does the camera also come with the original incident light metering

panel? When new, Rollei models equipped with meters (not all 3.5 Planars had meters)

came with a little, transluscent, clip-on panel...it clips onto the two little studs to either

side of the meter's acceptance window...that would permit incident metering. It's almost

impossible to find an old Rollei with the original incident metering panel...they've all

usually been lost after so many years. The Rollei selenium meters were much more useful

in incident metering mode.

 

These are outstanding cameras. The Yashica Mat 124G is OK, but it's not in the same

league as the Planar Rolleis. The Carl Zeiss 3.5 Planar is considered by many to be the

best lens Rollei ever put on a camera, even sharper than the 2.8 version. The Schneider

3.5 Xenotar is just as good, but not as valued by collectors.

 

If the Camera is in sound working order and in good cosmetic condition then a CLA will

bring it back to life. Enjoy it.

[bernie_.]

Hello

 

Thank you for all your responses. There is true knowledge in this forum. I put my hands

on the Rollei again and I notice new flaws. The wind lever is not smoth as my Mat. And the

speed and aperture knobs are hard to rotate. I'm wondering how a camera in this cosmetic

condition (lens and body are pristine) has this flaws... shutter speeds, wind lever, meter,

knobs...

 

Sergio, the camera doesn't come with the original incident light meter. The other

accesories are great for the price.

 

My dilemma is that I don't know if it is worth to replace a mint and reliable Mat 124G from

the early 70s for a Rollei Planar which needs a really serious CLA.

 

Decisions, decisions, decisions...

 

Anyway, thank you for all your comments and thoughts.

[mskovacs]

I'd pass. "The wind lever is not smoth as my Mat" The Mat is many things but smooth it is not. About as smooth as coffee grinding in my experience. That Rollei is in need of serious work.

 

There are better condition Rolleis out there for this kind of money. Condition is everything with these cameras and comes before Planar/Xenotar or model C/D/E/F in my opinion.

[sergio_ortega7]

Bernie,

 

You state the camera is in pristine cosmetic condition, but the function is not as smooth

as you'd like, or as good as your Yashica. This leads me to believe that this Rollei may tbe

the best candidate for a good CLA and one to consider.

 

Some things to verify or check before deciding:

 

Is the body free of dents, dings or other serious damage? Stay away from old cameras

with serious exterior damage. These have usually been dropped or bumped, and if the

basic chassis/frame of the camera is compromised or out of alignment, then it will be

nearly impossible to restore to good working order. Though I have seen and used some

seriously ugly cameras over the years that worked just fine.

 

Very important..does the lens panel move in and out (rotate the focus knob back and

forth) with out binding and does it remain parallel to the body throughout its full travel? If

it looks like it's moving in and out at an angle, or is somehow out of alignment, then this

could be a serious issue, and it will affect proper focus. It can be repaired if damaged, but

this is not a good candidate for consideration.

 

Remove the top of the camera...the entire waist level finder unit. Then remove the

groundglass focus screen and frame. These come off easily, with no tools, by unclipping a

couple of clasps (not esasy to describe in writing). Look down into the reflex mirror

housing for the viewing lens. How does it look? The entire compartment should be clean

and smell dry, not mouldy.

 

The reflex mirror should be free of cracks, scratches, chips and de-silvered areas. It

should also be seated firmly and held down by the clips at the corners/edges. Damaged

reflex mirrors are expensive to replace or resilver. They can be easily cleaned if only

covered with forty years of dust and residue, but don't do it yourself.

 

The groundglass screen is another point of interest. Is it scratched or cracked? The

original screens were very dim and not very contrasty. These can be replaced very easily

(Maxwell makes good screens) and a new, modern bright-screen which will transform the

Rollei....you will not believe the difference a new bright-screen makes with any old camera.

Also, don't clean the screen yourself, you can easily damage the thing.

 

How does the WLF housing unit open and close? Are the side panels of the WLF housing

bent or damaged in any way? These are made of very thin metal and can easily be bent.

Does it seat properly onto the top of the body? Are the clips holding it on bent or

damaged? Does the little focus aid loupe device open and shut (on the lid of the WLF

housing) properly? Is the loupe's glass clean?

 

Open the rear film door. Does the latch work properly? Look inside the film compartment.

Is it clean and free of mould, dust and other debris? No cobwebs? How does the entire

film door panel seat on the side rails of the body? Is the door panel bent or damaged in

any way?

 

The Rollei film door panel is not the most substantial thing, and can be damaged at the

bottom of the body by attaching a common tripod mounting screw directly into the

bottom. The best way to attach a Rollei to a tripod is with a Rollei Quick-release accessory

(also hard to find), not directly onto a tripod head screw. If the door panel is bent, dented

or does not seat properly I would stay away from this camera.

 

The rotation of the film wind lever is usually very stiff and not very smooth from years of

non-use. There are a series of gears and mechanisms under the side panel (you have to

remove the leather covering under the lever to get at this stuff) that can be cleaned and

lubed...this will make the wind mechanism function like new again. If the wind lever is

bent, if the lever and knob itself does not fold and retract into the little hole as it should,

then it could be broken. Does the lever properly cock the shutter when rotated? Does the

shutter even fire? Close attention here is important.

 

Are the shutter speed and aperture control mechanisms OK? Do they rotate and function

easily? These functions are hard to describe in writing, but manipulate the controls

yourself to see how they operate.

 

How is the metering window and needle on top of the focus knob? Is the plastic cracked

or damaged? Does the needle inside even move? If the focus knob metering assembly is

damaged, then the meter will not be useful.

 

How does the focus knob rotate and move? Is it also hard to rotate? Does it look

damaged? If it's only a matter of a CLA, then afterwards the thing will once again focus

smoothly.

 

Look through the taking lens while the rear film door panel is open. Open the aperture

diaphram to all its positions, are they oily or rusty? Do the blades open and close upon

themselves with no binding? Are any of the blades bent or damaged?

 

Shine a small light throught the taking lens, what do you see? (don't be surprised when

doing this...shining a flashlight through any lens is bound to reveal a lot of dust and

imperfections, even on the best lenses). You should see relatively clear and clean glass

with no scratches or chips or other serious imperfections.

 

Can you make any exposures? If so, test the lens at various apertures at infinity focus (the

focus panel completely retracted into the body) to see if the lens is in proper alignment.

 

Once again, a good CLA should bring the camera back to life IF the rest of the mechanicals

and cosmetics are not bad. It's really a great camera. These Rolleis are really the Leica of

medium format cameras. Superb handheld cameras for B&W photography.

 

Good luck.

[bernie_.]

Thank you for your kind responses. Sergio, I appreciate your true knowledge about Rollei

world.

 

I'm gonna pass because I don't have any problem with the Mat and the Rollei has really

important flaws.

 

Thank you again.

 

Best regards