Developing ILFORD SFX 200

[mathew_gonzales]

I just got done shooting my first test roll of SFX and would like to know what

developer will render the best results- ID-11 (Stock or 1+1), DDX (1+4) or D76

(stock or 1+1). I also shot a roll of Delta 100 and was wondering if i should

process the two together.

 

thx

 

Mathew

[aplumpton]

Am just about to try SFX, so cannot comment, except to say that Ilford recommends

12 min. at 20C for Delta 100 and only 10 minutes for SFX, both in DDX 1+4 and for

nominal ISO vlaue of each film. Of course, if you have rated Delta below 100, or have

rated the SFX at 400 instead of 200, the times might be more similar. See DDX sheet.

ID-11 and D-76 are similar developers.

[ronald_moravec1]

D76 or ID11 are the same functionally. 1:1 will get you sharper grainer print than stock.

 

They can be processed together if they require the same time or you can open the tank and take out the shorter time reel, in the dark of course and finish it in a second tank or drop in the shorter time reel part way thru. Obviously you are new, so I would not recommnd either.

 

I would not use a developer that gives no indication of it`s age by color change and whose manufacturing date is coded so it can not be read by a consumer. DD X falls in that catagory. That and Xtol are the two best developers for Delta 400. They rest produce poor results. Consequently I do not buy that film either. Fortunately they have not screwed up Delta 100. That and SFX work well with my scratch mixed D76 from raw chemicals. Store bought mixes do not produce different results.

 

Which is better, grainy and sharper or a little softer with less grain. Only you can decide.

 

I would test 6 exposures on the front of a new roll, then pull out 12" in the dark and develope that much. Print it so you know if you are on the right track. Ilfords times work ok for a diffusion enlarger, subtract 10% for a condenser.

 

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=3&t=Consumer+%26+Professional+Films

 

Click on the film, then fact sheet, then film development chart.

 

Agitate 15 sec on immersion, the 10 sec each minute.

 

My time for Delta 100 is 9.5 min at 68 for a condenser enlarger, D76 1:1.

[mathew_gonzales]

Thanks for the great responses

[luke_ballard]

I have shot a lot of SFX and am doing a TON of IR photography right now, using SFX 200, also Kodak HIE, and what is becomming one of my fav's is Rollei IR400, but developers, I use D-76, I normally use it stock, but if you dilute it you should get some sharper grain. Do not pre-rinse the SFX, it is not recommended, I normally pre-rinse most all my films, but not SFX. If you end up shooting Rollei IR400 you do need a pre-rinse, 5min actually, you will get a lot of black junk you don't want in your developer. I actually rinse it 4 or 5 times until it is completely clear.

But anyway, SFX, I would use D-76 either stock or 1:1. It is just a good developer. Are you using a IR filter? If so which are you using?

SFX can provide some really amazing IR images if you use an opaque filter like a Hoya 72r. That is what I use and I have gotten awsome wood effect with it.

Anyway, use digital truth to get your times and I would not develop those films together. My usual rule is, if it isn't the same exact film, then I develop them seperatly. Just for the sake of not accidently screwing up a roll of film.

 

If you have anymore questions let me know, I have shot a ton of SFX and I do really like it. If you want to go further into IR with a film that gets into the 800nm range (which SFX extended is about 740nm) but I reccomend the Rollei IR400, I would reccommend the Kodak HIE, but as we all know it has gone bye bye, but as a substitute I am using the Rollei and it has REALLY impressed me! I mean really impressed me a lot! I have a gallery subission going up soon that is all Rollei IR400, its just good stuff in my opinion once you get use to shooting it and how to shoot it.

Good luck, if you need anymore help, feel free to let me know!

 

Luke B

[mathew_gonzales]

Luke,

WOW! Thanks. This is my first roll of SFX and I'm not quite sure what to expect. I have been checking out the Rollei IR also and it looks pretty cool. I used a Cokin P 89B in combination with the SFX. I may decide to buy another when i purchase some Rollei.

[aplumpton]

Is it correct that the Rollei is in reality the German MACO 820 film?

 

 

Don't give up on SFX, if you prefer subtle IR effect (less) rather than more, as was the

domain of HIE. You may also want to compare as well the grain with Rollei vs. SFX,

especially for large print sizes. There is also an Efke IR film from Central Europe,

which you can probably get at Freestyle.com.

[Fotohuis RoVo]

Rollei is the film brand name for the (Rollei)/Maco company since 2004.

 

Rollei IR 820/400 is a product from Gevaert in Belgium.

Maco IR820C was a product from Fotokemika in Croatia, an extended sensitized Efke 100 film.

Efke is making their own IR film now under Efke IR820.

 

For both films you need in fact at least a 89B filter, or even better a 88A filter to get the right 'wood' effect.

Note that with a 88A filter (715nm cut off) the Rollei IR820/400 will have around iso 12-25 and the Efke IR820 iso 1-3.