processing times for Jobo 3010 hand agitation

[keith_lubow]

Hello,

 

Just got a 3010 tank used, and new roller base. No instruction, though. Just

wondering what is the recommended RPM I should be shooting for to start. When

processing c-41, my normal time is 3:15 with constant agitation for 45 sec.,

then an inversion and tap every 15 sec. till the end of the process. Is this the

same with the constant agitation rolling process?

 

Also, by my own trials with plain water and no film, 500mL seems like a good

amount of chemical for this tank. 210mL min. it says. Basically, I am asking if

there is a volume beyond which the thing will actually work "worse". I would

think that you want less volume than it would take to completely fill one of the

five tubes.

 

Anyone know of an official Jobo source that describes how to do this by hand?

 

Keith

[ronald_moravec1]

There is no source as it is to be machine operated only. 200+ml is fine for 10 sheets

C41.

Done it many times.

 

If you were to see it operate, the chemical spreads in all 5 cylinders and washes over the

film and moves from one to the next during rotation.

 

About 30 RPM is correct, at least for the first 30 sec. Then I slow it down, my way not to

tax the machine, not official.

 

You can not hand agitate as the developer needs to be introduced while the drum is

spinning and reversing direction every 1 1/3 revolution. Other Jobo drums fill bottom up

and can be used as hand inversion. Not the expert drums.

 

With the highly active C41 and short times, you will get uneven development if developer

is not added fast and with the drum revolving 30 RPM.

[david_dorcich1]

The expert drums were designed to be used on a rotory processeser. You can just rig up a funnel with a tub to pour chemicles into the drum as you rotate it.

 

You can also pick up a used beseler, Unicolor, or ilford motorbase. These are really cheap on eBay and can handle the drum and the chemicals. You just have to reverse direction manually every 30 seconds during development.

 

As far as times go just check the films info sheet, they give starting times for rotory processing.

[keith_lubow]

thanks.

 

I figured out how the chemicals spread from tube to tube by looking at the design of the drum. Nice design. KISS is the best philosophy. A sensible idea realized with 10 cents worth of plastic, and you have a $275 retail item.

 

I am going to presoak, and have a friend pour through a standard darkroom funnel with a rubber hose clamped on. I will not be hand agitating in the standard manner used for Nikkor tanks, but rotating the drum on a standalone Jobo roller base, which I already have.

 

David, I will double check, but I don't recall any color film data sheets stating times for rotary processing, or any processing times at all for that matter. I get my times from a Kodak non-replenished process chart. For black and white, I already have my times down for tray processing, so this Jobo will be for color C-41 and E-6 only; to save on lab fees for myself and several of my friends.

 

The info on reversing direction is good to know. Thanks for that tidbit.

 

Also, Ronald. Instructions on the roller say: "For easy manual rotation of all JOBO drums", "adjustable to all drum sizes and diameters", and show a diagram for how to flip the rollers to accommodate a 3000-series expert drum. There is also a picture of a person rotating a drum by hand.

 

Unfortunately, I would need to actually see the CPP-2 or some other such processor in action so I could try to emulate what it is doing. They must know that not every one will buy the processor. So there must be some sort of instructions somewhere for manual rotation.

 

Keith

[thirteenthumbs]

Keith, I use the 2500 series drums on the manual roller base to do B&W and may do some color in the future. 30 RPM is 1 rotation every 2 seconds and very east to achieve. My technique is to place my right hand fingers on the end of the tank and push foward until I reach the back of the palm then do the same with the left hand without stoping between hand changes. To reverse directions I pull from the back edge of the palm to the finger tips. Pratice a little the get the rythm down. I do 15 second rotations in one direction then switch to 30 second durations after the first 2 minutes and the B&W comes out fine (HP5+,Delta 100, Fomapan 100). Consistant speed and time in each direction are the most important factors. When I do get around to doing color I will stay with the basic pattern I use for B&W but stick with the 15 second direction intervals for the development time listed for the film/chemicals I use.

[keith_lubow]

Did first batch last night, by hand with a 3:15 starting time. Developed only 3:00 to reduce contrast, using the time from my experience with pulling C-41 roll film. Tossed the developer afterward, kept bleach, fix and stabilizer. Thanks for the help, Charles. I used your info to take the plunge. Results seem fine. Better than tanks and hangers like I have done in the past. This will save me over $600 in processing fees for a 200-sheet project I just shot on mostly E-6, some C-41 film. The CPP maybe some day, but this is more than fine for now.

 

Keith

[dennis_ng]

<p>May be a bit late to the party but if Keith/Charles etc. still listen to this thread, how to keep the temp. constant when you do the hand rolling? I just got a 3005 and thinking about manual roller (I got this) or might be get a motor base. CPA2 and CPP2 seems quite expensive.</p>