Polarizer, GND or Both

[brossart]

What is the best way to darken the sky and get better cloud definition in

landscapes using a polarizer, a GND or both? I have been shooting an EF-S 17-

85 on landscapes and have used both (but not at the same time). I kind of like

the effects of the polarizer better, but I don't have a lot of experience

here. I just bought an EF-S 10-22. Since the filter size is bigger and with

all of the opinions that Cokin-P will cause vingetting from 10-12, I'm looking

at a possible re-investment in holders and/or a polarizer. Before I do, I

thought it would be nice to hear a few opinions. Thanks.

[delros]

the cokin x-pro w960 kit works realy well.and the new slim polarising filters works just as well,its worthwhild geting some lint free gloves, to keep finger print from geting on to filters.<div></div>

[brossart]

Thanks David. Sounds like you use both a polarizer and GNDs interchangably with similar results, is this correct? Also curious what you think of the X-Pro set-up. I've looked at it, and it's gigantic. I know Cokin only recomends Z-Pro for 20mm and longer, which with the crop factor on a 10mm lens puts you in the X-Pro as a recomendation, but it seems to be overkill. WDYT?

[david brown]

Hi Michael,

 

Just my opinion but I would re purchase what ever filters you need to suit your new lens.

 

I did it when I bought my wife a wideangle a few years ago, first a circular polariser then I got into the Cokin system.

I find them both very useful in different situations, if the sun is at the wrong angle to you you can darken the sky with the grad filter.

The effects of both filters are very different to me and offer a different feel to the shot.

Its better to change filters during a shoot than on a computer later imo.

[david_henderson]

I use grads and a polariser extensively for this purpose, though to be fair more with colour slide film than with a digital camera. You can't say that one tool is intrinsically superior to the other- you tend to use them in different circumstances since the polariser in particular does more than simply darken a blue sky and you may or may not want to have those effects.

 

I should say though that using a polariser on wide angle pictures containing sky has risk since the extent of polarisation/darkening varies according to the angle with the sun, and this often means bands of unevenly polarised blue sky. With wide angles, its easier to use a grad to darken skies, though you won't get the other effects of a polariser such as reduction in bright reflections leading to apparently greater colour saturation. Really I think that most moderately well equipped landscapers will have both, and rarely use them in combination.