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Orthochromatic Film issues


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I just shot a roll of http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.p ? 1000002128 Rolli

Ortho 25 film 36 shots and nothing turned out. The roll was blank other then a

florescent light that registered on the film. I understand that the film is not

sensitive to reds and oranges so I used flashes for my lights and I used a green

filter on my camera maybe I should have used a blue filter? I used my digital

camera to get an exposure setting then did a equivalent exposure adjustment. I

went from an ISO of 200 to an ISO of 25 so I went from f8 to 3.5? because it was

the largest aperture I could get on my camera. I had one flash set to about f16

and the other to about f22 and had each light about 2.5 yards from the model. I

set my light meter to ISO 25 and everything but nothing other then the light

showed up and in only one photo? I heard the shutter open and close. The camera

works fine so I know it's not that. I think it's just me using Ortho for the

first type that might be the issue. Any ideas?

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Sounds like you were way under exposed. f3.5 is a half stop to little, but that should be ok. But what is the filter factor for your green filter. Odds are you cost you a couple of stops as well. I don't quite understand what you mean by setting your flashes to f numbers. What kind of camera and flashes? What shutter speed and was your sync setting set for X for electronic flashes.
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I've never used this film, but I suggest the key may be in your green filter. If it was a real full-bore tricolor green, like a #58, it would have a pretty high filter factor, since it absorbs everything except the green wavelengths. You don't say why you were using the filter, but if you don't have a good reason, you might lose it and try again.

 

Another alternative is that you're underdeveloping.

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Ok it was the filter then. I was thinking that since it's a blue green sensitive film the green filter would help make it more contrasty. I didn't think about it filter out colors. I should have used a blue filter it sounds like. Now IR film when you use a red filter it's ISO bumps up I've been told. Is this the same with Ortho film?
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I would also like to add that what I mean by saying, "Now IR film when you use a red filter it's ISO bumps up I've been told. Is this the same with Ortho film?" I mean if I use a blue filter on Ortho film will it boost the ISO? I know that sounds weird But I was told by a professor when I was in college that if you use IR film and use a red filter it's ISO rating jumps to a higher rating.
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If you use IR film and a red filter, the ISO rating doesn't jump higher. Firstly, ISOs are set by specific methods and are standard. Subjective ratings are called Exposure Indexes (or EIs). Even here what your professor said is not quite true. If you use a handheld meter, you would set the meter at a lower ISO than you would metering on the camera through the filter, but this isn't really a change in ISO, it's a change in how you are performing the metering. The film speed doesn't change in either event.
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Jeremy, I suggest you don't use any filter, unless you have a good reason to. Depending on what blue filter you choose, you could find yourself with the same problem as with your green filter.

 

One way to look at it is that the ortho film itself acts something like a blue-green filter. It doesn't respond to red wavelengths, so it's like shooting pan film with a 'minus red' filter on your lens, which would be a blue-green 44 or 44A.

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You don't need a 44/44A with ortho film, if that's your plan. There's no point. To ortho film, these filters would look as colorless as window glass.

 

You could use a 44/44A to simulate an ortho look with pan film. These filters are uncommon and have limited utility, so you might have to do a special order. You might get similar results with a deep cyan CC filter. You could look for a Wratten gel filter. Alternatively, B + W makes (or made) a similar blue-green filter called a 081.

 

OK, don't take this the wrong way-- this project is costing you a few bucks, and what's worse, it is costing you photographic time. I get the idea that you don't have a clear idea how these materials respond to light. Are you sure you have a reason for using them?

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Hi, I have to put in my two cents worth here. In all the responses, how you processed the ortho hasn't come up. The developer used in processing ortho is very unstable. In fact, there are two solutions that are combined right before you use it and then it 'dies' very quickly, hence mixing right before use. Another developer that can be used is good ole dektol diluted 8 parts water and one part developer. Works very nicely. Why did you shoot ortho in the first place? I hope you got all the answers you need.

Signed, an ole ortho user from way back!

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