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Triggers for Nikon SB-800 and SB-600


brettarthur

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You can put a piece of filtering material over the pop-up, allowing only the infra-red part of the pulse to emit (since that will trigger them just fine). A piece of good old fashioned blacked-out exposed film negative will work.

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Or, you could use Nikon's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FNikon-FSW53801-SU-800-Speedlight-Commander%2Fdp%2FB000CRLBN6%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Delectronics%26qid%3D1197720417%26sr%3D8-1&tag=uplandlife-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325" target="_blank"><b>SU-800</b></a>, which is a very good tool for this exact purpose.

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In case I wasn't clear enough, Brett, that SU-800 preserves your ability to use the CLS system. Whether you use it or not (there are pros and cons, but mostly pros once you're used to it), it's sure nice to be able to adjust the power and ratio between the strobes from the camera position.
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I couldn't tell what body you have, but if it's the preflash that make them blink, I read somewhere where you could use the FV function to disable it after a test shot. There are some people who are light senstive that they will blink no matter what(I'm one of them)it's hard not to blink when you have no control.I noticed from your profile that you shoot a lot of bands. While I love the CLS,it does have it's limits. In your case you go with a radio transmitter. I can only comment on the PW, I have one of the earliest sets and they have never failed/missed. I know there are a lot of reviews on the others but please don't waste your money on imports that don't work. If in doubt surf some of the other(strobists) sites and see how reliable they are. You get what you pay for. A couple of weeks of rice and water and you'll be there.
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