kayak203 Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I'm unpaid and for good reason, but I'm hoping you can help before I do any more damage. The banquet indoor lighting was a lot worse than I was expecting. I was using a D70s at f5.6 and ISO 640, with an SB-600 speedlight pointed almost straight up for bounce, but with an index card rubber banded to the SB-600 to give some direct lighting. I have colored gels for the SB-600, but I have never used them and didn't have time to fool with it. Also, I had the speedlight zoomed, so unfortunately, it just put a spotlight on the close subject and shadowed the bags of their eyes. How do you handle this type of informal gathering?<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_clark___minnetonka_mi Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I like your photo. Hope you don't mind but how does this look when cropped? Happy Holidays!<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 shoot raw and white balance in your wraw process using his shirt collar as the white balance target. Otherwise: You see that the light in the background is fluorescent so put a Rosco Plus Green filter on the Speedlight (to make it imitate the fluorescent color balance) and choose fluorescent as white balance in the camera but even then I'd still shoot raw and WB as described in my first paragraph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_clark___minnetonka_mi Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Hi Ellis, I find that wb to something like the gents shirt will result in skin tones that make it seem like the subject got sunburnt! And then I would receive complaints as most of my clients are people looking at people. I balance to lean toward warm skin tones, hence I receive no complaints. I see many photographs where it is properly w/balanced but the people have this ruddy red look. Your thoughts? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay_ransom Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Those ceiling look a little high for a bounce flash. Try a Sto-fen I think it will even out you light. I agree with Bill on the crop the candle looks like the focal point in your picture and not the gentleman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beepy Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I tried a white balance - masked foreground and main subject and white balanced on shirt. White balanced bkgd with an inverted mask - but had a hard time finding anything neutral to balance on - ended layering a masked 10% Blue (80) Photo Filter on top of background to cool down my neutralization attempt.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beepy Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 So, I guess what I'm trying to say - you're shooting/processing digital - a white balance card shot in the environment (and various depths in image) will allow you to accurately white balance the scene? Gels seem somewhat more complicated than necessary for what you are doing? I guess the gels (as stated) should balance the strobe temperature with ambient light - but I'm sitting in a hotel conference room with fluorescent bounce up light against an off white sound reducing tile ceiling and unbelievably a mix of halogen and incandescent floodlights point down illuminating most of the room. <p> What gel combo would white balance that? Eeeek! I'd rather sample the room with a white balance card. <p> Maybe I am nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 If there were no windows or other types of lighting in the room, you could have used green gels and done OK. Usually, though, you do have other kinds of lighting, and then green gels can cause problems. There are three things you can do that don't involve gels. First is cropping in the camera to not show light fixtures. Second is manually widening the flash beam when bouncing. Third is letting the flash dominate and not dragging the shutter so much. You want to achieve that fine balance between showing some background but not showing so much that the ambient light colors everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twmeyer Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 What Nadine said, and get an SB800 which is more powerful and can be used off camera, wireless with your D70s. Or, use a tripod and shoot at 2.8 with no flash. You have to time your exposures for <i>relatively</i> still moments. DOF is not as big an issue as you might think, since these images probably will never be enlarged past 6x9 inches, despite Bill's crop of your already cropped image. If they want close ups, you'll need a longer, faster lens to work this way... t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayak203 Posted November 29, 2007 Author Share Posted November 29, 2007 I will need to practice some of these before the next one. I guess I was showing how bad the conditions were instead of framing and putting forth a composition. I don't have an art background but I am signed up for a series of classes starting soon. Thanks for all the thoughtful suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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