Jump to content

Sunny f16 rule


drew_back

Recommended Posts

"Sunny 16" rule doesn't apply everywhere; for example here in South Florida it's "Sunny 22." For B&W or color negative film just use the recommendations for shutter speed/aperture/weather conditions printed in the film box. For color slide film you need a light meter.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<P>For me using Velvia 100, it's more like the Sunny ~f11.25 rule. Here's an <a href=" Maria Alm, Austria

<P>The picture was taken at f8 1/250sec. You can see the cloud is border line close to the overexposed edge but retains a lot of detail texture, and the foreground is well lid. If there is no cloud, I can even open up the aperture a bit to allow in more shadow detail, making it a f11 rule instead.</P>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"All serious photographers need an accurate exposure meter and the knowledge of how to use it."

 

You don't think Matthew Brady was serious? I don't think he had a light meter.

 

 

OK then, how about Eugene Atget? Timothy O'Sullivan? Alfred Stieglitz, maybe? I figure they had some kind of sunny 16 knowledge. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"All serious photographers need an accurate exposure meter and the knowledge of how to use it."

I think not - eyes and brain make a pretty good exposure meter and can think more about shadows and highlights than an exposure meter can. I'd say the opposite is true....the people who might "need" an exposure meter are those with no experience who are using a manual camera and can't work out exposures using "Sunny 16" as a starting point. Maybe for studio photogs using different lighting set ups then an exposure meter might be more important, but it ain't hard to look at a scene and say to yourself "1/250th at f8" and decide that some of the shadow areas might be more important so change to f5.6, or the highlights might be too much so change to f11. It's always worked for me when using my completely manual meterless Nikonos III.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another happy user of Fred Parker's guide(s). Download the spreadsheets, save them to a PDA, and you can modify them as needed for your own special situations as well.

 

Been several times where I had a shot that I couldn't meter, and I pulled out the PDA, looked up likely exposure, and nailed it. Best example would be a elementary school play my son was in, fast film, no flash.

 

One more related story - I took a 3 week trip down Route 66 this past July, with a modern digital and several antique cameras. About the second day out, I drop my good meter and it's toast. Damn! After that, I guessed on every shot - and missed very few due to exposure errors. Color print film is reasonably forgiving. Slide film, I might have still wished for a meter....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Christopher, the Fred Parker article is interesting, but I actually think he over-complicates Sunny 16 by using EV numbers and assigning different scenarios to every EV number. Personally I find it easier to just let my brain work out if something is between "hazy sun" and "cloudy" and to work out that whether I need to open or close the aperture by a stop, or decrease or increase the shutter speed.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...