Can I use BLIX without leaving silver in the film?

[Ed_Ingold]

Is there a way to use a Tetanol C-41 kit without leaving silver in the emulsion

after the BLIX solution? The answer may lie on the critical path - let me

explain.

 

The local processor of 120 film, Rose Imaging, moved from Wildwood, Illinois to

Waukegan, on Rt. 120 (Belvedere) near Green Bay Road. They moved on May 1, and

I didn't know until yesterday, seeing a still vacant store front.

 

I brought one roll of film to be developed. It was like a visitation at a

funeral home. They only run their film machine once or twice a week (I got

lucky - this is the day), and use distilled water to avoid deposits from

disuse.

 

I asked if they handled digital printing from CDs or cards. She said they

have always catered to professionals for high-grade printing. I asked

"Couldn't pros bring in digital images for printing - it's a lot cheaper

than doing them yourself?" She said "Most of the pros were too late adopting

digital and simply went out of business." The rest mostly deliver images on

disc to their clients (as do I). The amateurs send images by email.

 

So I have visions of Tetanol and purple stains in the kitchen sink.

[ronald_moravec1]

I don`t persoally know, but one of the Kodak engineers who wrote here says it does not work fully.

 

I go to Calumet Chicago and purchase one gallon separate Kodak chemicals. You get a developer, bleach, fix, and a stabilizer. Product numbers are available by PM.

 

So are my results from measuring the small quantities of the three parts of developer. One is 1.75ml and the other is 2+ ? so you need some decent measuring stuff to make up 8 oz at a time. Dev C and B are 1/2 oz bottles to make a full gallon, tiny tiny.

 

I use it all one shot in either a Jobo or Nikor tanks.

 

Finding Calumet is harder than mixing the chems. Go to Kendal College at Harrison and the river/Cherry st. Go NW to first stop sign. Go can get in from the North, but I get lost every time as street numbers are scarce. Use 1200 North, I think Division St.

[Ed_Ingold]

That's asking for trouble if you mix 8oz at a time with such a large dilution ratio. How long will the chemicals last once mixed if you use the developer as a one-shot?

[g._armour_van_horn]

BLIX is unstable compared to either bleach or fix. (Note that my experience is all E-6 rather than C-41, but these two solutions appear to be very similar between the two processes based on everything I've seen here on photo.net, much of which has come from very experienced folks including Kodak chemists.) Bleach is expensive and can be used for a long time. Fix is dirt cheap. Combining the two into one solution means you end up with a sort-of expensive blend that can't be stored for future use.

 

Van

[rowland_mowrey]

That expensive blend of bleach and fix is 1/2 the concentration of each alone, if you think about it, and so is less active.

 

I've been working for years on a good color blix and have just about perfected it!

 

But, until then, I suggest that you use a bleach and fix sequence with a wash in between.

 

The problem is even worse in E6 processing where all of the silver is developed.

 

Ron Mowrey