BLACK AND WHITE NEGITIVE FILM INTO SLIDES

[megan_griffith]

IVE HERD YOU CAN MAKE A BLACK AND WHITE NEGITIVE INTO A SLIDE. DOES ANYONE

KNOW HOW THIS IS DONE AND WHARE I CAN FIND THE CHEMICALS???????

[jordan_w.]

Please turn Caps Lock off -- for various reasons it's considered rude to communicate in all-caps on the Internet. (IT'S LIKE SHOUTING!)

 

If you already have the developed negatives and want to make slides from them, you will need to re-photograph the negatives onto a high-contrast film (like Eastman Kodak Fine-Grain Release Positive 5302) using a macro lens or slide duplicator attachment. Then you can develop the film in paper developer to get a usable positive.

 

If you've shot but not yet developed the film, you can mix reversal chemistry yourself, use one of a couple of available reversal kits (Kodak and Foma make them), or send it to the DR5 lab in Colorado.

 

Developing B&W slides at home is not rocket science, but it's more involved and requires much more trial and error than developing for negatives.

 

I have a summary of available techniques at my website: http://www.photosensitive.ca/wp/methods-for-producing-bw-slides/

[john_shriver]

Or, any professional lab that has a scanner and a digital output device to slide film can make slides by scanning your negatives, and "printing" them on Ektachrome film that they process. Might have slight color casts on the slide.

[megan_griffith]

thank you for your input , sorry about the caps i had no idea it was rude

[mendel_leisk]

I contact-printed a few black and white negatives onto Kodalith film. Processing the Kodalith with a conventional developer instead of the usual high-contrast lithographic developer produced continuous tone positives. I believe I used paper developer, but it was a long time back, might have been HC-110 (liquid black and white film developer).

[michaelging]

Kodak used to have a reversal kit for developing Panatomic-x into slides, but that is not made anymore and will be hard to find. They also have one for Tmax 100 film , that you can still buy, but only by special order.

[frank.schifano]

Ilford gives full instructions on how to do this. While not for the unexperienced, it's not terribly intimidating. Look here for directions: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20061291034093.pdf. Other manufacturer's chemistry can be substituted for the developer(PQ Universal or Bromophen), fixer (Hypam or Ilford Rapid Fixer), and wetting agent (Ilfotol.) You'll probably want to use the hardener since the sulfuric acid used in the bleach back step will soften the emulsion quite a bit. Of course, Ilford gives directions for their films, but the process can be used with any conventional B&W film. Use Ilford's suggestions as starting points and make adjustments to the chemistry and timings to suit your needs.

[randall_pukalo]

www.dr5.com

you will get back some very cool looking slides. try the sepia toner also, gives a very vintage look. I suggest HP5 (BW toner) and Plus X (Sepia toner).

I have used them several times, with great results.

I only wish they would create some film mailers to make it more convenient tosend in.

[walterbriggs]

I believe there actually 'would' be more involvement as per the film mailers..but I think too many have likely fallen in to the B.S. that film had died.

[jtk]

Here's a sure way: Make the most beautiful prints you can make, exactly the way you'd want a slide..or perhaps make several of each, the way you'd hope they'd look plus a few variations, some going darker and more contrasty.

 

Then photograph with a slide film that renders good black. The best black would be with Kodachrome, but it'll take forever to get processed. The second best would be Velvia E6.

 

I learned about the use of Kodachrome for this purpose from a man who was paid to make finest possible slides from dozens of Edward Weston's original prints (!).

 

All you'd need would be a macro lens, a stand or good tripod, and a pair of blue photofloods if you can find them...or tungsten lamps using an 80B filter on your lens. Position the lamps carefully to avoid glare. If you light from only one side you'll see extreme unevenness because the macro distance will exaggerate it.

[seandepuydt]

Just a point of clarification, I sent Dwaynes a roll of Kodachrome on Monday of last week and received the developed slides on Friday. That seems like a pretty good turn around. (USPS mail 1st Class Mail)

[photography by a.f. smith]

I'm gonna put in another vote for DR5. Also, I gotta say I'm not sure why people sensitive about the caps. Doesn't make my eyes hurt like shouting would make my ears hurt. In my opinion, making a fuss about it is a lot more anoying than doing it to begin with.