can I use Ni-Cd rechargeable batteries in a K100d

[knowlesy]

if not which type of rechargeable AA's should I buy?

[jeffpolaski]

Lithium ion.

 

Ni-Cd is very much yesterday, and not worth the savings in price.

[rainer_t]

If you want AA's, go for Ni-Mh cells.

 

From ...

 

http://www.pentaximaging.com/products/product_specs/digital_camera--K100D/reqID--7717476/subsection--digital_slr

 

...

 

"Power Source - Four AA (Lithium, Alkaline, and rechargeable NiMH) batteries, or Two CR-V3 lithium batteries, Optional AC adapter also available"

 

No NiCd mentioned here.

[knowlesy]

but it's just as I already have some Ni-Cd I wanted to oknow if they would work properly in the camera, and as they are not mentioned in Rainer's link it seems I will be purchasing an extra set of Ni-Mh batteries instead.

[rainer_t]

Thomas, your NiCd cells might work. Hard to say ... my experience with AA size cells in digital cameras is limited to my old Kodak DX4530 ... and that one doesn't overly like NiCd cells ... it reports them as empty quite quick (after relatively few shots), whereas NiMh cells run fine (for hundreds of shots).

[trw]

AA NiMH cells typically have 2000-2500 mAh of capacity. AA NiCD batteries typically have

300-900 mAh, depending on age and "memory effect". $20 or so for four NiMH is well worth

it.

[mc2imaging]

Ni-Cad's are also lower voltage, so your camera may THINK the batteries are dying when they

are not. It certainly can't hurt to try 'em, but don't expect much run time...

[andrewg_ny]

Jeff, I don't think there are Li-Ion AA's that can be used.

 

<P>To my knowledge, you can use alkalines, "Lithium" disposables like Energizer e2 or you can use rechargable's such as Ni-Mh which are what most people use. It <i>*may*</i> also be possible to use a pair of rechargeable Lithium-Ion CR-V3 but I don't think this was being recommended by Pentax, probably because these batteries appear to vary in specification and some may be more compatible than others. I've had pretty good life out of the Energizer 2300/2500 NiMH, and other people have been praising Sanyo Eneloop. The NiMH tend not to hold charge well for longer periods of disuse, perhaps the Eneloops are better at this?

[stephen_van_egmond1]

I use NiMH batteries. They're dirt cheap, and don't suffer from many of the annoyances of NiCd. However NiCd will work.

 

I suggest you use them until they stop working, then get rid of them.

[john carter]

Be sure to use 2300-2500 mAh. Someone has said it, but it is important.

[matthew_allen1]

The latest generation nimhs are the best choice. Look for Eneloops or their equivalents (Hybrio, Infinium etc.). They use a new variation on the chemistry that lets them hold their charge much better than normal nimhs or nicads. They are supposed to retain 80% over a year at rest.

 

The biggest problem with normal rechargeable AAs is the self discharge rather than the absolute capacity. Unlike lithiums they will lose a significant proportion of their charge in the course of a few days, so you spend a lot of time making sure that they have been topped-up recently. The new cells like the Eneloops are MUCH better in this respect, though still not quite as good as lithiums.

 

Matthew

[Jochen_S]

I believe I tried a set of decently charged quite new 1000mAh NiCds once in the *istD and if I got 30 frames out I might have been lucky. I fear it were way less. - Forget about NiCDs.

 

The K100D is the pickiest battery eater I own.

 

Since I already had the *istD I reached a new stage of NiMh consumerism: I got myself a little charger capable of measuring and displaying each cells' individual voltage and even more important capacity. - Each fishy NiMh set I own has one significantly defective cell taking only say 500mAh. - Bottom line: Buy them special offers 16 cells at once, to get maybe 3 sets.

 

My little wonder charger came in a bag with a cigarette lighter plug too and puts out up to 1000mA. - That bag is another strap going into the "Did I pack everything?"-snap hook in my backpack (Something I established after arriving at a concert with a vest full of AAs, CFs and Pentax glass but the *ist at home...) I wouldn't hesitate to power that charger on location out of a motorcycle's tiny battery, when I've ditched my car. - Charging one set seems possible, the others will have to wait until I'm on the road again.

 

I haven't tried Eneloops and similar yet. Since I have 3 chargers now it doesn't take too much time to prepare myself and conventional cells for a major event. The crucial thing is really to sort the defective cells out and mark them boldly, if you believe they are good enough to serve in your 4th little "portable studio" flash for the 12 pops you're planning to drain.

 

NiMh brands: Although some people claim Ansmann, or GP to be good, my sets have the usual "undead" low capacity cell. What I got at the Supermarket was worse. A freshly charged brand new set didn't even get me through the camera setup menu! - But I got one set of usable cells out of 12. Currently I switched to Sanyo, which have a very good reputation among the RC model scene. I can't rant about them since I didn't go through enough cycles yet. Buy at least 12 similar cells to get 2 decent sets out. Leaving the camera empty too long while charging causes loss of clock settings which can be frustrating.

[ed_yuen]

Hello:

 

First, lose (recycle) the Ni-Cads. The low Amp-hour ratings compared to the newer Nimhs available just isn't worth the hassle and problems you're going to run into. Invest in a good set of Nimhs and a proper charger. Do some research as there can be quality control issues depending on where some of these are manufactured.

 

Second, there are Lithium cells available. These can be found but mail order for these are strictly ground delivery. Also, again you can't just dispose of these in the garbage (or you shouldn't). Advantage for these are that they do have a good shelf life as well as service life. EverReady makes AA and AAA, I can't say what other sizes they produce beyond the 'button' batteries. Last thing, Lithium cells are more expensive so take that into account.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ed

[jim_may1]

I just went on a Caribbean cruise, put in a fresh set of NI MH on day one.

At about shot 220, I changed them, only because I didn't want to carry extras with me that day. I got 275 more on the second set and they still read full at the end of the trip. 10% of shots were flash.

I was using Powerex 2700 mAh, charged with the Maha 204 charger.

They have worked well for me.

[jim_may1]

OOPS! My camera is a K 100 D.

Jim

[thebs]

<p>First off, <b>there is no such thing as a Li-Ion AA!</b> There are only 3.6V RCR-V3 Li-Ions, with some that have some regulator or some pull-down logic to regulate to 3.0V nominal operating voltage. I don't recommend them though.</p>

<p>Secondly, if you have 1.2V NiCd AA, try them. The nice thing about 1.2V NiCd AA is that, unlike 1.2V NiMH AA, they are designed for up to 3-5A "real-time" current. That means while you may only get 100 shots, you <b>could get solid AF performance because of the 2x current delivered</b>. It all depends on your NiCd batteries though, and you <b>must</b> "deep cycle" them to deal with the "memory effects" that NiMH's don't have nearly as much issue with.</p>

<p>Third, put for some investment into some new, 2A+ capable NiMH batteries and grab either some (non-rechargeable) CR-V3 (Li-Mn) or Energizer e2 Lithium (Li-Fe) as "backups." I've noted Sams Club here in the US now sells a three (3) set pack (12 batteries) of e2 Lithiums for $19, which is only a little more than $1.50/battery.</p>

<p>Some more reference information for you</p>

<ul>

<li><a href="http://thebs413.blogspot.com/2007/07/li-ion-is-not-lithium-eg-li-mn-li-fe.html">Li-Ion is not Li-Mn/Li-Fe (and general K100D recommendations and practices)</li>

<li><a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/92022-post31.html">Recent post on another forum (including comments on NiMH v. Li-Fe for sports and AF motor performance)</a></li>

</ul>