HC-110

[Vlad Soare]

Hi, guys,

<br><br>

While searching the net for information on HC-110, I stumbled upon <a

href=http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110>this page</a>. In the Dilution

Guidelines chapter the author states that you must make sure to use at least 6ml

of American syrup or 19.2ml of European concentrate, even if this means putting

more than the usual amount of liquid in the tank.

<br><br>

My question is: how serious is this? What happens if I use dilutions E, F, G or

H with a 240ml tank? Will the film come out underdeveloped?

<br><br>

I'm planning on using HC-110 as a one-shot developer, and I'd like to know the

highest dilution I could get away with. :-)

<br><br>

Thank you.

[Vlad Soare]

I forgot to tell you that I have a 240ml single-reel 35mm tank.

[yann1]

Dilution H works very well for me, you could dilute even more, but I've never tried. I think the minimum of 6ml suggested is because for such low level, it's probably difficult to be very accurate, same with less dilution with the developping time, dilution H seems to be right way to begin with. HC110 is a great developper by the way.

[john carter]

I use 1:63 which is diltiion H. For my tank that comes out 7.8 mls to 500 mls of water (USA). I use a syringe from the RX that is 10ml. to measure out the 7.8 mls HC-110. I read that this developer is linear, which means the dilution has very little changing effect on the development outcome of negatives until you get into the huge dilutions. Dilutions do effect development times.

[ronald_moravec1]

Accuracy and repeatability is more important than exact ratio from roll to roll.

 

54.5:1 will work fine. 63.2 will work as well. Just measure it the same.

 

Measure out 6 or7 or 10 ml add water and through away what does not fit in the tank. The stuff is dirt cheap.

[nickr]

There is a minimum amount of chemical you need to process so much emulsion regardless of

dilution. If you can't fit that much in your tank because of your dilution ratio you'll have to

use a different mix or buy a bigger tank.

[tlr]

I use dilution H 1+63 in a 250 ml tank, a little less than 4 ml of concentrate without any problem for a 35mm 36 exposures film. I have read that the minimum amount of concentrate for a film in 135 or 120 is 3 ml.

Tomᳮ

[chris_markiewicz]

another vote for dilution H - at just a few mL per roll of film, it's very economical. very happy with the stuff so far. (sorry i can't answer you question, but i wanted to throw in my 2 cents...)

chris

[jon_porter1]

I use 5ml of concentrate per 240ml of water, which works out to around 1:47, in my 8oz and

16oz tanks. I always thought the minimum concentrate to use was 3ml. At any rate, I get

beautiful, consistent results.

[stefan heymann]

<p>The number in the Covington paper has been 3 ml up until April this year. Based on a question in a German lab forum we (Michael Covington and me) did some calculations of the minimum amount required, based on Kodak's current <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf">Technical Data Sheet for HC-110</a>. We came out at around 6 ml and so we changed the paper to reflect that.

 

<p>Kodak is very probably on the safe side with 6 ml (as was Agfa with saying that you need 10 ml of Rodinal concentrate per film). However, a lot of people say that 5 ml of Rodinal is sufficient, so 3 ml of HC-110 syrup will also probably be sufficient.

 

<p>It also depends on how much there is to develop—when you take photographs of large bright areas (which will become large black areas on the film), more developer is needed.

 

<p>I would also like to repeat that it's not completely correct to name the 500ml package (CAT 500 1466) "European". You get the normal, thick, gooey syrup when you buy the usual 1 Litre bottle over here in Europe. It's just that 500ml package that is different (and is not mentioned at all in Kodak's HC-110 data sheet)—but that's rare, also in Europe.

[Vlad Soare]

Thanks, guys. <br>

It's all clear now. :-)

[Vlad Soare]

You're right, Stefan. I've just bought a 1 litre bottle, made in France, and it's indeed the full-strength version. The dilutions listed on the label correspond to those for the gooey syrup.

<br><br>

But now I have another question. I'm using the new Tri-X (400TX), and the development time in dilution B listed on the bottle, as well as on the Covington site, is 3 3/4 and 3.7 minutes respectively. Michael Covington says that the specified time is not right, but he doesn't say clearly what the correct time is. He says the correct time should be just a few percent shorter than for the old TX. However, the time for the old TX (7.5 minutes) was also too long, most photographers recommending something between 6 and 7 minutes.<br>

So, what time should I use? Should I go for, let's say, 6 minutes in dilution B or 12 minutes in dilution H? Would this be OK?

<br><br>

Thank you.

[ken_schroeder]

Vlad, two of the books cited in the link ou posted are excellent, and should be part of your personal library. Fred Picker's Zone VI Workshop is a very solid, yet easy to follow guide. I believe it is out or print, but is very readily available at places like amazon.com. Bill Troop's Film Developing Cookbook (co-written with Steven Anchell) is an excellent reference book. It is well worth serious study.

 

My solution to using higher dilutions of HC-110 has been getting a larger tank. my tank, an old 30 oz Nikor (lne liter) can actually hold four rolls. With very dilute HC110, it works very well with one or two rolls.

 

I believe Kodak promoted the stronger dilutions (A and B) for speed of processing. Fast is better, or at least can be marketed that way in a fast paced world. For those more interested in subtle image quality than saving a few minutes, I think it is worth exploring the possibilities of more dilute, gentler development. I like very luminescent shadows and soft, graceful highlights. (The softer highlights are much easier to print, as well.)

 

A meaningful photograph can give pleasure for decades. Technique alone will not transform a so so image into a fine print. However, do es not a well seen image deserve the best technique one can offer? I recommend the two books and spending the time to master your developer.

 

Ken

[Vlad Soare]

Another question: I'm thinking of keeping the concentrated syrup in the refrigerator (in completely full glass bottles, of course) to prolong its life. Will this work, or will it do more harm than good?

[doc_w]

<p>Vlad, I decant the concentrate into smaller bottles, as you suggest. If you mix your developer from concentrate and draw only from the large bottle, it will oxidize faster. Kodak says that the shelf-life for HC-110 concentrate in full bottles is verrrrrrrrrry long.</p>

 

<p>The new Kodak spec sheet is very useful. I have wondered for a long time what the minimum amount of developer would be for a sheet of 4x5 (I shoot large format). You can figure it out a lot more easily from the new spec sheet. Kodak says that one litre of dilution F is required for one sheet of 8x10. So,</p>

<br>

<p>- dilution F is 1:79 or 80 units<br>

-1 litre divided by 80 is 12.5 ml for one sheet of 8x10<br>

- thus one sheet of 4x5 requires a minimum of 3.125 ml. </p>

 

<p>I just round up to 4 ml. Who can pour fractions of syrup?</p>