Buenos Aires in June

[david_l3]

I'm going to Buenos Aires for two weeks. How are the early winter conditions and what kind of

daytime weather to expect? I'm trying to decide between one or two M bodies to take. Lens list is 35 'lux,

90mm, and maybe the 50 'cron. Taking 15-20 rolls of 400 b&w and that much slide film. I hope to find

tango dancers to photograph. Any less well known places (music, dance, culture) that are interesting to

see? I'd also like to know of any good E-6 labs. My GF and I will be enjoying the restaurants and nightlife,

and we like walking tours. Thanks.

[derek_stanton2]

David,

In my opinion, two weeks is too much time in Buenos Aires....

 

I went in late August (a few years ago). It was quite chilly, overcast, and sometimes rainy.

But, even with good weather conditions, i just didn't find that much to be visually

appealing. I had gone expecting to see the "paris of south america," but i left

disappointed. To put it another way - when i went looking for postcards to send back

home, i found nothing depicted that was interesting/beautiful enough to want to show.

 

That said, it is a nice city. But, i don't know what i would do there for two weeks. I went for

four days, and found that to be plenty. Take a bus tour, and visit Boca, for sure....

 

Can you visit other cities/countries while you're in south america?

[john_elder1]

If you are shooting both color and B+W film, you need to bodies. Make it 2 lens:35lux and 90. Keep both lens mounted and you don't need much of a camera bag. I'd take more film. Take enough B+W and color to shoot the trip exclusively with either one.

[john_elder1]

That 2 bodies.

[SolaresLarrave]

I went there in May-June 2001 and loved it. It was a bit chilly at times, but easy to handle. Places like la Boca and La Recoleta are a must, but then, so is the Plaza de Mayo and the Avenida Nueve de Julio, which is the widest in the world, and leads you to the Teatro Colon area. Don't miss the San Telmo neighborhood, but be aware of the high chances of being pickpocketed there. The area where the theaters and cafes are is also very interesting. Check out Plaza Italia and the nice gardens around. Some of the neighborhoods, like Palermo (where Borges used to live at some point in his life) have a nice air to them, with tall, leafy trees.

 

I went to BA before picking up photography, and sensed the city's wealth of visual opportunities. It's not Paris, mind you (thank God!), because it has its own charm. Keep an eye open and you'll enjoy it. Don't miss Calle Florida for people shots, but be ready to be accosted by merchants wanting to sell you all kinds of stuff.

[SolaresLarrave]

Re-read your post... and I wish I remembered everything I did there.

 

Some important pointers:

 

Dinner in BA starts at 8 PM. If you want an early dinner... eat at a hotel. Most restaurants will only serve you "minutas" (short-order dishes) before 8 PM.

 

Be always aware of your surroundings and the people around you. Do not accept unsolicited offers for help; there's a common trick there: someone will squirt mustard on you, pretend to help you clean the "bird poop" and then pick your wallet. Just say no, firmly, and then walk away. Mustard stains can be easily washed anyway.

 

When in Argentina, eat beef. The meat cuts have strange names, so I must recommend you try the "bife de chorizo", which is something akin to a strip steak: nice, juicy and thick. If you and your companion have a healthy appetite, try an "asado" or "parrillada" for two ("para dos"): it's a sampler of different types and cuts of beef, with chicken and some kinds of sausage for good measure.

 

By all means, at least try "mate" in the typical, Argentine bowl. Do not accept it in paper bags, like tea bags. In fact, if you're offered mate, accept it. It's your best way to be treated well. And if you want to try it, ask if you can have it "dulce" (sweet).

 

Try "alfajores" while in BA. They are like shortbread sandwiches with "dulce de leche" (a sweet, caramel like substance) in the middle. And don't miss the "empanadas", because they make an excellent appetizer.

 

Take the bus and the metro over taxis, unless you have a wicked sense of humor. Taxi drivers are fun, but they drive like maniacs and believe that lane markings are merely decorative. Now that I think about it, so do bus drivers, but at least their vehicles can't swerve in traffic as fast as taxis.

 

If I can remember something else I'll post it here. I really wish I could return to Buenos Aires and have a cup of coffee at the Tortoni!

[pablito_pistola]

I think two weeks in Buenos Aires is NOT too long! I certainly would not be bored, but you

might consider a trip to Uruguay, either to Colonia, or to Monteviedo, both accesible by a

fast ferry called Buquebus (google them)

 

Check out the zoo, botanical gardens, La Bombonera (the soccer stadium of the famous

"Boca" soccer team) and the Boca team museum. Take a boat trip on the canals of El Tigre.

 

In San Telmo, have the bife de chorizo at Manolo's - delicious, cheap and lots of character.

If you like antiques you can spend days looking in the shops around San Telmo. Get the

Insight guide to BA - it's quite good.

 

For tango, there are tourist shows but they are expensive and - touristy. Try to find a real

milonga. I suggest La Viruta: http://www.lavirutatango.com/ but be warned, the light

levels are impossibly low and flash is not welcome. Do NOT photograph without

permission. Other than that, this is a very friendly place - but you should know that tango

never starts before midnight.

 

Finally, check out the tango photographs of my good friend Adriana Groisman:

http://www.adrianagroisman.com/tango/index.html

Her tango book, appropriately, is called "Never Before Midnight"

[larry_kincaid1]

When my daughter and her friend visited Buenos Aires, they took Tango lessons! You might want to look around for lessons yourself.

[pablito_pistola]

La Viruta is a great and friendly place to take tango lessons.

[george_conboy1]

I have nothing to add to the suggestions for BA, but with two weeks to spend it makes sense to catch the ferry to Colonia, Uruguay. You can rent scooters or even a golf cart and make a day trip there. Last time I was there (3 years ago) I saw at least three dilapidated Model A Fords still in daily use. Try to get out of BA for at least an overnight at an estancia. These are large ranches, many of which offer accomodations and meals, out in the countryside. You will be glad you did.

[david j.lee]

i heard that a trip to iguazu falls is really nice, and of course,the women in argentina are

espectacular...

[peter_n1664876959]

Go to La Bombonera and root for Boca Juniors!

[SolaresLarrave]

Pablito is right. I'd take the ferry to Colonia any day. And then, if you feel like, there's a three- or four-hour bus ride to Montevideo, whose downtown has some interesting sights.

 

Of course, if you're at La Recoleta, don't miss "La Biela": a nice place with outdoor seating where coffee and pastries are delightful.

 

BTW, I spent about a month in Argentina when I went there in 2001. Three weeks in Buenos Aires left me feeling pretty much like I could live there.

[35mmdelux]

I'd take two Leicas & 21mmVC, 35mm, 50mm. Or, like David Alan Harvey or Alex Webb just the 35mm.

 

Brush up your Spanish.

 

Enjoy - Paulo