slow, sharp film for landscapes

[scott friedberg]

"I know some people will disagree, but C41 was designed for people photography, not nature photography."

 

Was it Ilkka? You mean for the point-and-shoot folks that only shoot in blazing midday sunlight??

[ichavel]

"Perhaps the best thing to do is shoot a lot and use all of the different films mentioned here. Then when I'm done I can decide what I like best and report back here."

 

I assume that all this testing is before the trip!

[ben_hutcherson]

"I'd also take some of my "finely aged" Kodak Ektachrome 50 with me. I must have lucked out with this expired batch I have in my freezer."

 

I have about a half-dozen rolls of EPY-50 in my refrigerator. If that's what you have, it's worth noting that EPY is a tungsten balanced film. This would account for the blue colors you get outdoors, as all tungsten film will be blue under daylight unless used with the proper filter.

[profhlynnjones]

Hi Tom,

 

I've tested all of the easily available 35mm color print films and my sollution was regular amateur Fujicolor 200 print film. I have made critically sharp, grain free, brilliantly colored prints up to 20"x30". I don't know how much larger the stuff can go! I shot a great deal of Fujicolor 400 for hot air baloons and found sharp but barely perceptible grain in cropped 16x20's. Recently in Europe (Italy and Greece) I shot about 30 rolls of of fujicolor 200 and, of course, I bought film in these countries, processed and printed them each day to avoid e-ray. Even though I've been a working professional for 6 decades, on vacation I don't haul my 2 dozen heavy duty cameras around with me. Until I wore it out, I was using a Pentax IQ Zoom, an amazing camera. In one instance, I couldn't buy Fujicolor 200 so I settled for Kodak 100. So sad, the Fuji 200 was sharper and finer grained than the Kodak 100!

 

I also shoot for fun, Olympus C8080 (8mp) and Olympus E500 (8mp) with two lenses. These will make 16x20's with no problem. All of these are a heck of a lot easier to use than my 5 view cameras from 2 1/4 X 3 1/4, to 4x5, and 8x10.

 

Lynn

[larrydressler]

Lynn

 

I think your processing is alot better than mine and alot of other people here.

 

I have gotten great 16x20s and larger from Kodak Gold 100 and Agfa 100 and 200 but it is the distance it is viewed from.

 

I have seen your work and it is outstanding. You have the Eye Shooting the Sky. Some Negative Film has the Latatude but Many Baloon shots I remember were shot on Kodacrome 25. and Ektachrome that had little Latatude. With the Computer and Digital age tough I still shoot both Negative and Positive Color film I find myself still doing mostly B&W and Color Positives.

 

Larry

 

Larry

[bill_tuthill]

Lynn, perhaps Superia 200 is better in your market than in mine.

It is a fairly good film, but I agree with the Filmscan.RU tests

(<A HREF="http://cacreeks.com/films.htm#filmscan">summarized here</A>)

saying it's lower resolution than most pro films. The truth is,

there's not much difference in enlargement quality between 100 and

400 speed films nowadays.

[oskar_ojala]

Fuji Reala (C41) for high contrast scenes, Fuji Astia or Provia or Kodak E100G (E6) for scenes with more moderate contrast. These are excellent films, but please familiarize yourself with your choices before leaving! Also, I understand it's often cloudy in Scotland, so maybe one of the E6 films with a warming filter might be good.

 

Kodak 400UC is a good all-around film, if that's what's needed, but it has more grain when enlarging than the above choices.